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The Mahabodhi Temple at Bodh Gaya represented to the British, in the nineteenth century, a conveniently ruined Indian past which could be protected, recovered and restored as both a duty and a validation of legitimacy. However, for the temple's Hindu proprietors, the shrine—aside from being a valuable estate in purely financial terms—functioned as a symbol of the triumph of 'orthodox' Hinduism over 'heterodox' Buddhism. Finally, for the Burmese Buddhists who undertook their own 'restoration' mission in 1874, the Mahabodhi Temple marked the site where, according to Buddhist tradition, Gautama Buddha first achieved enlightenment and thereby began the career of the religion that bears his name.
Bodh Gaya, a globally venerated small town, derives its significance from being the birthplace of Buddhism. It has a distinct religious and cultural identity. This article traces the mode of urbanism that the town has been subjected to and argues that the town is not witnessing a linear transition from the rural to the urban, but rather experiencing the social and spatial production of what I call the 'rural–urban dilemma' and marks how the planning regime has given rise to an evolving dilemma. This article reviews spatial planning narratives and interventions in Bodh Gaya, focusing on changing governing narratives and spatial zones of differential infrastructure associated with different discourses of belonging and residentship, and urban futures. Bodh Gaya cannot determine its future without addressing this dilemma.