Correspondence 1893-1926; references concerning JA Howlett, 1884; articles in "Australasian", 1893, "Punch", 1917 and "Graphic" 1922 and 1926; passports; programmes; photographs, primarily of cricket teams (including the 1926 Australian Test team with whom Howlett toured) and North Melbourne identities; material relating to North Melbourne Masonic Lodge; construction of house in Parkville; St James' and St Paul's Old Boys Association. ; 111420 Fonds: [1984.0129] "HOWLETT, JAMES A."
The Twentieth Catalogue of the International Young Men’s Christian Association Training School for the academic year 1904-1905 with Announcements 1905-1906. An index is on the inside cover and a photo of Woods Hall appears opposite the title page. The academic Calendar 1905-1906 follows the title page, then a list of Corporators and Trustees, Officers and Committees, Members of the Faculty with bios, and Other Instructors. The student list follows beginning with the Senior Class (1905), then the Middle Class (1906), and Junior Class (1907). Sections on the Object of the School, Policy, Historical Sketch, Course of Study, Degrees (B.H., B.P.E., M. H., and M.P.E.), College Men, Building and Grounds, Laboratories, Libraries, Location, Religious Life, and The Association Seminar are on pages 13-33 with photos interspersed. The Curriculum section is introduced by the block schedule of the Secretarial and Physical Courses by class and semester. The Curriculum section includes subsections on the General Course including the Graduate Course, Technical Courses, i.e., Secretarial Course, Physical Course, and Courses for Boys Work for each class. The remaining section is titled General Information and includes subsections on Requirements for Admission, Estimate of Expenses for the School Year, Recitations, Practice and Examinations, Self-Support, Representation in Athletics, Student Organizations, Student Publication, Contributions, Bequest for Endowment, and Perpetual Loan Fund followed by one page of advertisements. Of interest are the photos of the Foot Ball Team and the Gymnastic Team wearing the logo on their uniforms, i.e., the Triangle with the letters T S placed vertically over the Triangle.
The Seventeenth Catalogue of the International Young Men’s Christian Association Training School for the academic year 1901-1902, with Announcements for 1902-1903. It was published February 1902. An index is on the inside cover. The Calendar follows the title page, then a list of Corporators and Trustees, Officers and Committees, Faculty, Other Instructors, Special Lecturers, and Secretarial Visitors, 1901-1902. The Student list follows beginning with the Senior Class (1902), Middle Class (1903), and Junior Class (1904). A statement of the Object of the School, statement of Policy, Course of Study, and Equipment are on pages 11-21. The Curriculum section is introduced by the block schedule of secretarial and physical courses by class and semester. The Curriculum section includes subsections on the General Course, including the Graduate Course, and Technical courses per department per year. The remaining section is titled General Information and includes subsections on Requirements for Admission, Estimate of Expenses for the School Year, Recitations, Practice and Examinations, Self-Support, Student Organizations, Student Publication, Contributions, Jubilee Endowment Fund, Bequest for Endowment, Perpetual Loan Fund, The Association Seminar and Training School Notes ( publication advertisement) followed by advertisements. The Equipment section includes description of the buildings, facilities, laboratories, libraries, and photos of the football team, school quartet for three years, and buildings. The Senior class, 1902 is pictured on page 12. A photo of the Boat House appears opposite the title page.
The Twenty-Fourth Catalogue of the International Young Men’s Christian Association Training School for the academic year 1908-1909 with Announcements 1909-1910. An index is on the inside cover followed by the 22” pullout of a landscape view of the Dormitory, Woods Hall, and the Boathouse overlooking Lake Massasoit. The academic Calendar 1908-1909 follows the title page, then a list of Corporators and Trustees, Officers and Committees, Members of the Faculty with bios, and Other Instructors. The student list follows beginning with the Graduate Students, then the Senior Class (1909), Middle Class (1910), and Junior Class (1911). Sections on the Object of the School, Policy, Historical Sketch, Social Service and Religious Education, Degrees (B.H., B.P.E., M. H., and M.P.E.), College Men, Building and Grounds, Laboratories, Libraries, Normal Practice (Location), Religious Life, Silver Bay, and The Association Seminar are on pages 11-46 with photos interspersed. The Curriculum section is introduced by the block schedule of the Secretarial and Physical Courses by class and semester. The Curriculum section includes subsections on the General Course including Graduate Work, Technical Courses, i.e., Secretarial Course, Physical Course, Boys Work Course, Special Courses such as music and first aid, for each class and finally, and Preparatory Course (prerequisites). The remaining section is titled General Information and includes subsections on Requirements for Admission, Estimate of Expenses for the School Year, Recitations, Practice, and Examinations, Self-Support, Representation in Athletics, Student Organizations, Contributions, Bequest for Endowment, and Perpetual Loan Fund. Athletic teams are shown with uniforms with the TS logo and others with the letter S.
This collection consists of photographs of the campus, staff, students and miscellaneous shots. The collection is housed in the Special Collections Department of the Stewart Library at Weber State College.; This collection is arranged in chronological order.; THE CAMPUS; Administration Building, 1896. Exterior and grounds.; Administration Building, n.d. Exterior.; Administration Building, n.d. Exterior.; Abbott Cottage (boys dormitory), 1922. Exterior.; Gables Cottage (girls dormitory), n.d. Exterior and grounds.; Gables Cottage (girls dormitory), n.d. Exterior and grounds.; Nelson Hall after renovation in 1950. Exterior.; West Cottage (girls dormitory), n.d. Exterior.; East Cottage (boys dormitory), n.d.Exterior.; Aerial view of State Industrial School grounds, n.d.; Dairy farm and pasture, n.d.; Aerial view of State Industrial School, circa 1960.; Aerial view of State Industrial School, circa 1960.; Aerial view of State Industrial School, circa 1966.; Aerial view of State Industrial School, n.d.; Ground in winter, n.d.; Nelson Hall prior to demolition, 1968 or 1969.; Nelson Hall during demolition, 1968 or 1969.; Schoolroom (unidentified), n.d. Interior.; Huggins Cottage (girls dormitory), Vocational Building, and unidentified Students, 1967.; Education Building, 1968. Exterior.; Community Services Building, n.d. Exterior and grounds.; Child�s Hall (boys dormitory), 1960. Exterior and grounds.; Child�s Hall (boys dormitory), 1961. Exterior and grounds.; Unidentified building, n.d. Exterior.; Unidentified building, n.d. Exterior.; Gates Hall (girls dormitory), 1963. Exterior looking northeast.; Gates Hall (girls dormitory), 1963. Exterior looking north.; Unidentified building under construction in 1960�s. Exterior.; Unidentified building under construction in 1960�s. Exterior.; Unidentified building under construction in 1960�s. Exterior.; Addition to vocational building, 1971. Exterior.; Students� Cottage, 1964. Exterior looking east.; Students� Cottage, 1964. Exterior looking north.; Gates Hall (girls dormitory), 1967; Beeley College for Students, 1967; Vocational Building, 1971. Exteriors.; Community Services Building, 1961; Gymnasium, 1966; L.D.S. (Mormon) Seminary Building, 1971. Exteriors.; Students� Cottage, n.d. Exterior.; Superintendent�s home, n.d.; Abbott Cottage (boys dormitory), n.d.; Dairy, n.d. Exteriors and grounds.; Cafeteria dedication, 1968. Interiors. Aerial view of State Industrial School grounds, 1968.; Child�s Hall (boys dormitory), 1961. Interior.; Hinckley Hall (boys dormitory), 1960. Interior.; Nelson Hall (boys dormitory), 1954. Interior.; Decorated door of unidentified building. Probably room in girls dormitory, circa 1968.; (same as above); Architect�s rendering of kitchen and dining facility, 1967.; Indian pottery display, n.d.; Heating system and maintenance work, Mr. Maxfield, n.d. Interior.; Kitchen work area, 1970. Interior.; Cafeteria dining area, 1970. Interior.; Automobile mechanics workshop, circa 1960. Interiors.; THE STAFF; Governor William, circa 1900.; Algie Ballif (Welfare Commissioner), LaMont Gunderson, (Welfare Commissioner), Glen Swenson (Utah State Building Board Member), and Frank Gates (Retiring employee at State Industrial School) at Utah State Industrial School building dedication, 1966.; Governor Calvin Rampton, Ward C. Holbrook (Welfare Commissioner), Dr. Arthur Beeley (Dean of School of Sociology, U of U), and Leona Huggins (Member of the Utah State Industrial School Citizens Advisory Board) at the Utah State Industrial School building ceremony., 1966.; Mr. and Mrs. (Dorothy) Claud Pratt, Superintendent of Utah State Industrial School (1951 � 1976), 1974.; Superintendent Claud Pratt (1951 � 1976) n.d.; Superintendent Claud Pratt and publishing company representative Admiring new set of encyclopedia, 1954.; Superintendent Claud Pratt, Utah State Welfare Commissioner Lamont Gunderson, and State Industrial School staff member DeLoy Blotter,1962.; Superintendent Claud Pratt and State Industrial School Clinical Psychologist Richard Sowles, 1967. State Industrial School home Economics class fashion show and cosmetology demonstration, n.d.; State Industrial School staff meeting, circa 1970.; Superintendent Claud Pratt, n.d.; Superintendent Claud Pratt, Assistant Superintendent Donald Talton, And State Industrial School Social Worker, Lee Richeson, Circa 1960.; Superintendent J. Parley Kilburn and two unidentified State Industrial School staff members, 1949.; State Industrial School Director of Security Horace Hood, n.d.; Emma Johnson, Head Girls� Supervisor, State Industrial School, Circa 1958.; First Chairman of the Citizens� Advisory Board Dr. Helmut Hoffman And State Industrial School staff members Dr. Jay W. McEntire, Dee Glasgoe, Carol Hines, Paul Rose, Ann Kleeb, and Olivia Tilletsen, Circa 1972.; (Head Girls� Supervisor Emola Lowe 1962-1984), n.d.; Clinical Psychologist Dr. Richard Sowles, n.d.; Business Manager John Miller, circa 1965.; Math Instructor Mrs. Baldazo, circa 1974.; Director of Vocational Education Hans Rasmussen, circa 1972.; Emola Lowe, Lester Carlson (Director of Education Dept.), John Miller, Don Tatton, circa 1974.; Claud Pratt, Emola Lowe, and Ann Kleeb (student instructor), circa 1974.; Staff meeting of major personal, 1959: Lester Carlson, Dale Westwood, Lee Richeson, Hans Rasmussen, Don Tatton, and Emma Johnson. Also Warren Allred (vocational education instructor) and Wilhelmina Tomlinson (kitchen aide), 1970�s.; Norman Lilly (social studies and political science instructor), Dr. Douglas Bates (school principle, 1971 � 1976), Fred Simonson (vocational Education instructor), and George Schupe (maintenance worker), 1970�s.; Lindon Castle (science and math instructor), Linda Wolcott (elementary Teacher), and Al Conter (Ogden School District Representative), 1970�s. (2 copies); Mr. and Mrs. Baldazo (math instructor), 1970�s.; Joseph Watkins (maintenance supervisor), Mr. Kline (boys supervisor), Cleo Swaner (director of volunteer services), and Rona Maxfield (girls Supervisor), 1960�s.; Huck Adelt (director of vocational training) and two student trainees with the owner of Ogden�s Harmon�s Restaurant, 1950�s.; State Industrial School staff meeting, and kitchen staff: Wilhelmina Tomlinson, Amy Richardson, and Howard Richardson, 1970�s.; Unidentified.; Vernal Holly (agriculture instructor), Sterling Brossard and Merrill Hermansen (Juvenile Court Justices), Dr. Bernie Garso (staff Psychologist), Ward Holdbrook (Commissioner) with Mabel Holdbrook And Edith Garner (Welfare Commissioner member), 1970�s.; Wilford Clark (painter), Dr. Hugh Moyes (dentist), Dr. Jay W. McEntire (physician), Lee Richeson (social worker).; Fred Hinckley (Member of Citizen�s Advisory Board), Rella Wallace (boys supervisor) and unidentified kitchen aides, 1970�s.; Claud Pratt and Dorothy Pratt with Dr. Helmut Hoffman, Utah State Legislatures, John Miller, and unidentified students, 1970�s.; George Chino (chef), Mr. and Mrs. Ward Holbrook, Tony Hassel (boys Supervisor), Mark Nielson (physical education instructor), Gene Fullmer (former world Heavyweight Boxing Champion), Jim Chadwick (Director Of Education), Sister Rosalie, and John R. Evans (Assistant Director of Education), 1970�s.; Ed Hanson (landscape worker), Mr. Butterfield (Acting Director of Education), and Bruno Kleeb (maintenance worker), 1970�s.; Dr. Douglas Bates (L.D.S. seminary director), and Claud Pratt with Jim Chadwick, 1970�s.; State Industrial School staff in front of Utah Capitol Building, circa 1950�s.; State Industrial School administrators and student caseworkers, circa 1960�s.; State Industrial School casework and placement staff, 1970�s.; Donald Tatton (third row, fourth from right) at Utah State Employee Institute, Snowbird, 1960�s.; State Industrial School boy scout group in Escalante, Utah, 1970�s.; Lee Richeson (social worker) hiking in Escalante, Utah, 1970�s.; Dedication of the State Industrial School gymnasium, 1966.; Caseworker�s meeting, circa 1965.; Lee Richeson (social worker) with Dale Westwood (caseworker), Don Tatton (Assistant Superintendent), and Les Carlson, circa 1965.; Wilford Clark with unidentified staff members, circa 1965.; Staff case conference, circa 1965.; Earl Chapman, Lee Richeson and Joel Millard at staff case conference, Circa 1965.; Staff case conference, circa 1967.; Staff social workers meetings, 1960�s.; Don Tatton, staff meeting, and laying new sidewalk, 1960�s.; Claud Pratt with Dr. Arthur Beeley (Juvenile Court supervisor of parolees), Scott Matheson (auto mechanics instructor), 1960�s.; Group portrait with Lee Richeson, Les Carlson, Dorothy Pratt, David Pratt, Claud Pratt, Frank Gates, Melba Gates, Don Tatton, Horace Hood, Elma Salmon and Sumner Salmon, 1970�s.; Staff party, 1970�s; Horace Hood and Dave Jones (security supervisor).; State Industrial School business dinner, circa 1968.; Algie Balif (State Welfare Commissioner), John Miller (State Industrial School Officer Manager), Don Tatton, Eland Kirkham (Assistant Director Of Social Services), 1960�s.; Lyle Miller (maintenance shop supervisor), n.d.; Legislation dinner at State Industrial School, 1970�s.; Staff Christmas dinner, circa 1965.; STUDENTS; Boys group in front of West Cottage, 1919.; J. Parley Kilburn (Superintendent) with students and staff members, circa 1953.; Boys group in recreation room, circa 1953.; Boy Scout group in outing in Southern Utah, 1968.; Boys group with unidentified instructors, n.d.; girls group with Don Brimhall (vocational education instructor), 1960�s.; Claud Pratt with group of boys at Christmas party, n.d.; Boy Scouts� Award presentation, n.d.; student group meeting, n.d.; Undisclosed.; Participants in girls fashion show, n.d.; Weldon Morgan (Assistant Boys� Supervisor) and Rella Wallace Admitting new students.; Dr. Lester Carlsen (Director of Education) greeting new students; Howard Richardson (chef) preparing meal; unidentified students, circa 1970.; Unidentified students.; Roland Lacey (maintenance worker), Sumner Salmon (vocational Education instructor), Frank Gates (Welding and blacksmithing instructor), Don Brimhall (boys� supervisor) with unidentified students, n.d.; Unidentified students.; Unidentified girls engaged in housekeeping duties, n.d.; Unidentified students during class change, circa 1970.; Unidentified students participating in gym class, baseball.; State Industrial School picnic, circa 1967.; Unidentified students studying at desks in boy�s dormitory.; Boys in Administration Building Cafeteria, circa 1960, and on grounds Work detail, n.d.; Girls attending Thanksgiving dinner, circa 1967.; Claud Pratt at student�s Christmas party, circa 1967.; Unidentified boys on outing, n.d.; Unidentified students in cafeteria, circa 1970.; Unidentified student groups, circa 1967.; Students� autumn party, 1958.; Unidentified students socializing between classes, circa 1967.; Secretary (unidentified) admitting new student, n.d.; Richard Youngberg (social worker) with unidentified student, 1966.; Grace Marsden (social worker) with unidentified student circa, 1966.; Sharon Orsund (social worker) with unidentified student, circa, 1966.; Testing of student by unidentified social worker, circa 1966.; Unidentified.; Unidentified girls with priest, circa 1965.; Unidentified students attending L.D.S. (Mormon seminary class), circa 1967.; Group counseling session, circa 1960.; Unidentified classroom scenes, 1950�s and 1960�s.; STUDENT ATHLETICS; Boys baseball, circa 1958; Boys baseball team, circa 1940.; Boys baseball team, circa 1965.; Boys football, 1960�s.; Boys football player injured, circa 1970.; Boys football team, circa 1970.; Boys football team in action, circa 1970.; Boys swimming at old gymnasium, n.d.; Boys basketball, circa 1960.; Boys jumping on the trampoline, circa 1960.; Boys calisthenics class, circa 1960.; Boys wrestling, circa 1960.; Girls� calisthenics class, circa 1960.; Boys� blind boxing, circa 1960.; Boys� boxing team, circa 1960�s.; Fourth of July celebration and Roland Lacey instructing student in Vocational education class, 1960�s.; Girls canning cherries, 1960�s.; Girls on laundry detail, 1960�s; STUDENT; Girls in home economics courses, 1960�s.; Boys baking bread, 1950�s; Cafeteria scenes, various dates.; Boys in shop classes, various dates.; Student typing class, circa 1965.; Boys in shop classes, circa1960.; State Industrial School teams and wagons, circa 1930.; Young boys practicing barbering, circa 1930.; Students on outdoor work detail; John Miller (Business Manager); Al Warren (vocational education instructor), various dates.; Students on laundry detail; students on outdoor work detail; team of Horses, n.d.; Sale of State Industrial School dairy herd, 1968.; Boys on farm detail, circa 1957.; Boys learning meat cutting and baking, circa 1957.; Dr. Hugh Moyer, dentist, examining unidentified students; teeth, circa 1957.; MISCELLANEOUS; Nurse Roena James checking unidentified students in dining room of Administration Building, circa 1957.; State Industrial School boy scout groups, various dates.; Boys� theatrical production (title not given), 1939.; Girls� theatrical production (title not given), circa 1939.; Interior of Abbot Cottage for girls, n.d.; Unidentified.; Students square dancing, circa 1965.; Miss Dee Gilasgow�s chorus, circa 1960.; Girls fashion show, circa 1950.; Girls� chorus, circa 1950.; Students performing in Parents� Day program, �Fiesta in Mexico,� 1954.; Unidentified student production, circa 1965.; Boys� camping trip, 1960�s; Boys� field trip to Dinosaur National Monument, 1970.; State Industrial School Library study hall, circa 1965.; Presentation of new furniture to Boys� club by Kiwanis Club of Ogden, 1950.; Student counseling sessions, circa 1965.; Arbor Day ceremony at State Industrial School, 1952.; Campus view (n.d.): vocational education building, Abbot Cottage, Gymnasium and school building.; Girls� chorus, circa 1965.; Student counseling session, circa 1965.; Students participating in Fourth of July celebration, circa 1955.; The Grass Roots promotional photo, circa 1968.; Students watching television in Child�s Hall lounge, 1965.; Exhibit of handiwork done by State Industrial School students, n.d.; Band practice, circa 1965.; State Industrial School entry in Pioneer Day Parade, Ogden, circa 1954.; Claud Pratt addressing girls at girls� home, circa 1962.; Nelson Hall dormitory for boys, n.d.; Unspecified student and staff activities, various dates.
The Twenty-Fifth Catalogue of the International Young Men’s Christian Association Training School for the academic year 1909-1910, with Announcements for 1910-1911. An index is on the inside cover followed by the 22” pullout of a landscape view of the Dormitory, Woods Hall, and the Boathouse overlooking Lake Massasoit. The academic Calendar 1910-1911 follows the title page, then a Program for the Twenty-fifth Anniversary, May 29 to June 3, 1910 followed by a list of Corporators and Trustees, Officers and Committees, Members of the Faculty with bios, Instructors, Tutors in Physical Education, the Matron in Woods Hall, and Lecturers 1909-1910. The student list follows beginning with the Graduate Students, then the Senior Class (1910), Junior Class (1911), Freshman Class (1912), and the Preparatory Class (1913). Sections on the Object of the School, Historical Sketch, Social Service and Religious Education, Degrees (B.H., B.P.E., M. H., and M.P.E.), College Men, Building and Grounds, Laboratories, Libraries, Normal Practice (Location), Religious Life, Silver Bay, and The Association Seminar and Springfield Student are on pages 19-59 with photos interspersed. The Curriculum section is introduced by the block schedule of the Secretarial and Physical Courses by class and semester. The Curriculum section includes subsections on the General Course including Graduate Work, Technical Courses, i.e., Secretarial Course, Physical Course, Boys Work Course, Special Courses such as music and first aid, for each class and finally, and Preparatory Course (prerequisites). The remaining section is titled General Information and includes subsections on Admission, Degrees, Diplomas, requirements, Estimate of Expenses for the School Year, Recitations, Practice, and Examinations, Self-Support, Representation on Public Occasions, Student Organizations, Contributions, Bequest for Endowment, and Perpetual Loan Fund. Note that this is the 25th anniversary edition and also that the Middle Class is now referred to as the Freshman Class. In addition, a picture of the Basket Ball team, 1909-1910 displays uniforms with the letter S stitched between 2 B’s.
Repository: UTOPIA: The University of Toledo Open Institutional Archive
A transcribed journal written by Gustavus Ohlinger concerning his travels across the United States, Europe, and Africa. ; Sacred to the Memory of Thomas Ison Captain Coesevaie, H.M. Sloop “Bitterie”. He died March 9th 1856 Aged 34 Years A victim of the effects of exposure in a whaleboat which was driven to sea on a dark night during a northeast gale. His shipmates all mourn the loss of a good man. Don’t try to remember me while in China, Bismark or in gay Paris, but when after your wanderings you return to Chi, then think of me, and look me up; I’ll take you out to lunch. -Arthur M. Barrett After a careful funeral of the sentiments so ably expressed above “we” fil content dear, Gus, to simply sign “our” illustrious name wishing you by this art the best of fortune in your third little trip around the globe. -L. N. Udell P. S. Remember me to Oom, LNU Think of your old Alma Mater, honor her & glorify her abroad; let not the luster of the Old World dim your recollections of the fast, especially of those years spent at the University of Michigan. With great assurance & high hopes let you enter this new arena hit above all show what an American is when abroad; we trust in you, Gustavus, & hope to hear great things of you ye lang. With great measure of success & the sincerest wishes of the writer may you speed on your way. Fraternally Roland Bruce Barett Chicago- October 10, 1902 When in the wilds of the dark continent, you are longing for god country and are hungry for civilization, think of the lunches, which you had in the midst of your old school friends at the Kimball Café and imagine it Kinsley. Articles From where To whom Date Subject L’pose E.D. Perry London || Plymouth || Dec. 1 Plymouth T.J. Leumirman || Tenerife E.D. Perry Dec. 7 Cape Town || Dec. 30 Victoria West || Jan. 11 What Americans are doing for S. Africa Victoria West T.J. Lumieman Jan. 11 The Promised Land Pretoria E.D. Perry Jan. 19 Politics in a New Country Pretoria E.D. Perry Jan. 19 Resettlement and Repatriation Pretoria E.D. Perry Jan. 26 An Americanized CityDurban Rand Daily Mail Feb. 13 Electric Traction Durban T.J. Leumirman Feb. 14 The Baer Generals at Home Durban E.D. Perry Feb. 14 Deserted Pretoria Durban E.D. Perry Feb. 21 School Teaching in the Delagod Bay Arthur G. Feb. 27 The Law that welcomes Colombo E.D. Perry Mar. 19 At home with the Baer G Colombo E.D. Perry Mar. 20 Reconstruction in S. Africa Singapore E.D. Perry Mar. 26 Portuguese in E. Africa Hong Kong S.W. Smith Mar. 31 Reconstruction in S.A. Foochow E.D. Perry Apr. 13 Singapore Foochow E.D. Perry Apr. 22 Canton Foochow Heinmiller Clueland Apr. 25 Ein Resuch, u.s.w. Chicago Oct. 11- Called on Samson, of A.M. Rothscild & Co., department store, to get information in regard to the betterment of the employees. Was not able to bare much. The company conducts a school for the cash girls, superintended by Mrs. Suf, where I could not find, and Mr. Davis conducts a school for the young men, the aim being to give them information which will be of value to them in the business. Rothschild & co seem to be the most advanced of any Chicago firm so far as attention to the comforts and social life of their employees is concerned. They give pinie for them, and on one occasion lush summer took them to a place some distance from the city, running seven trains for the purpose. They also have regular social functions during the year, as various halls in the city. Among these are miniature show, and they say they find good talents among their employees. There is considerable emulation among the departments to have representative in the cast on there occasions. The management of a department stow is by no means so centralized as I had supposed – Every department manager has practically his own stem, buying his own stock, fathing his prices on the goods, attending to his advertising, much as tho he were managing his own business. All that the proprietors demand is that the business shall show a certain profit. If it does not reach that percentage they investigate the [ ], and if necessary, make changes in the management. In the afternoon I called upon a number of business men, all of whom were out with the sleep-tim of Frank Baackes, direction and general sales [ ] the American steel & win Co. Had and interesting talk with him. He admitted that the product of the trust was being sold more cheaply abroad there at home. This he ac-counted for partly by the higher railroad trouffs prevailing in this country, and also by the over production. The excess of supply had to go somewhere, consequently it went to foreign markets at reduced prices. The tariff per cent to Australia, he stated, was 15¢ to San Francisco 74¢, to call upon him when in New York at the Empire Bldg. Chicago, Oct. 12. This day was spent with Mr. I Ralph Hutchins. Chicago, Oct. 13. Was unable to accomplish much except the final preparations for the trip to New York.Van Wert, O., Oct. 14- Left in the evening per 5:11 Pa. train for New York. Passed Pittsburgh at 2 a.m. and saw the smelters and foundries in full blast. New York, Oct 15. Arrived at 3:30 p.m. went at once to Musician Rooms to inquire in regard to the Best McCabe, and then went down Broadway to Wall Street, where Minly Church stands, guarding the entrance to the continent’s money market. New York, Oct. 16. Was obliged to spend some time at the British Consulate getting my percent to travel in S. Africa The vice-consul took the time- almost an hour- to fill out a blank form which might have been executed by any typewriter girl. In the evening I met a Mr. Kuusweltm, who is a paper manufacturer. He has sold out several mills to the west, but always goes ahead building new mills, and selling against them. He said there was nothing in this election against [ ] –  did not stifle competition – their over-capitalization covered in their own [ ]. When [ ] contract the water will be squeezed and of these concerns, and some on will be a heavy looser. He also informed us that he supplied the paper for the New York American. The American uses 175 tons a day; the Herald 110 tons; the Tribune 6 tons. New York. Oct. 17- Mr. Bishop Andrew and Bishop Moon- the latter spoke about his trip through Siberia. I think I shall come back by this route. New York. Oct. 20- Heard Robert McCabe paper on a U.S. Bank and had a hot discussion over it. Have decided to leave New York on Wednesday night. New York. Oct. 21- Started out to see newspaper and magazine new. Saw Goodrich, of Doubleday, Page & Co. Ray Steward Baker, of McClure’s. He in-formed me that the best thing to do would be to gather material and work it up after returning. Saw the edits of Leslie’s. He thought nothing could be used which is not striking- something startling, sermons, which bears some relation to Americans. He thought the Durbar was rather far off, as did also R. S. Baker. Marshall, of McClure’s Syndicate, had quite a talk with me. The matter for a syndicate, he informed me, was the most difficult to prepare, as also the hardest to buy- You have to discover some-thing that will strike the fancy of half a dozen Sunday editions,  with his  notions as to editing, and the kind of matter that should go into a paper. Called on R. U. Johnson, of the Century. He said nothing could be done in advance. After my return the matter could be insulated and anything of interest called out. He suggested that I see Group in St. Helena and get something from him. New York. Oct. 22. Saw Mr. Mills, of Longmans, Greece & Co., but got little satisfaction from him. Later called on Dr. Arrowsmith, of the American Book Co. Had a long talk with him. He introduced me to Mr. Vail and Mr. Ribald, of the same firm. Mr. Vail advised me to take  photographs and notes in regard to processes of manufacture. Mr. Ribald offered to give me titles to men in India, Philippines and Cuba. He told me that Dr. Michael E. Sadler, of London, who holds about the same position in England that Mr. Harris does in this country, had been here studying American educational methods with a view to applying them in the  and South Africa. New York- Oct. 24. Had a long talk with G.R.T. Cotton, who was going to S. Africa on apart for the Densuine Company. He informed me that the great drawback to foreign trade was a lack of knowledge of unique law, and also the difficulty of ascertaining the financial standing of firms in foreign countries. The most successful firms, such as Thick, Eddy & Co., had gained thru many years experience an intimate knowledge of industrial and commercial conditions in those parts. The knowledge is, of course, invaluable. Don and Bradstreet, while they attempt to give rating for foreign firms, have no accurate means of information. This is especially the case in the colonies. Colonial business houses, by dealing with firms of different countries, are able to stave off financial collapse. If an American firm refuses them credit they are sure of being able to find a German or French firm which does not possess the knowledge obtained by the American house, and who are therefore willing to give the deserved credit. It was cotton’s opinion that a firm of attorneys who aimed to keep in touch with correspondents in foreign ports and who knew legal and commercial conditions in those parts would have a large business. Dun’s and Bradstreets ratings started from very small beginnings. One firm would employ Dun to look up matters connected with a house with which they had business dealings. This would give him an insight into the condition of these two firms. Every firm added to his list of subscribers would increase his fund of information, and his means of obtaining other facts. He (Cotton) surfeited that I do the same thing with American firms while abroad. New York. Oct. 27. Sialed for Liverpool on the Legland Linbe S.S. “Gengian” after saying goodbye to Mrs. McCabe and Miss Bronse at 30 W. 17th St. Bishop had not returned from Cleveland, but was expected that morning. Van Keuren accompanied me from the house to the steamer, and said goodbye to me there- C.M. Baldwin, of Swift & Co., put me on board. I met a man by the name of A. J. Tuck, a designer at Tiffany’s, also going over as a cattleman. We arranged together with the cook for meals “Lights burning bright and all’s well” and the valuable privilege of using his room. Here we ate and slept. Oct 27. – Nov. 5- En Route, New York to Liverpool. As soon as the steamer had pulled out of the harbor and the pilot had left us. We had a conference with the cooks and steward, which resulted in the steward undertaking to look after our baggage and the cook engaging to furnish us with bed and board for $5 each. We agreed upon these terms, tho I had some difficulty in not being able to produce the $5 at once, my money all being in drafts and chicks. We were fortunate, however, in being masons- al-tho I have my doubts about luck being on the square- for both the cook and his assistant were of the order. I became new now intimately acquainted with the second cook, Charles F. Collender, or “Charlie”, Chayrlie” or “Charrrlie” as he was seriously called, by peeling potatoes, “spuds”, for him. The cook, John Burns, or “Jack”, by name, thereupon adopted us at once into his department and for the rest of the voyage we beguiled the monotony of the days over the spud tank. MacDonald, the foreman, had orders from Baldwin not to put me to any work. I usually spent my mornings over the spuds, had from 11 to 2 p.m., and after dinner helped the  get up feed. There was a  cosmopolitan crowd of cattlemen, representing seasonal occupations and as many nationalities. Of course there was the omnipresent few. Our fellow passenger was a French-man, and dealt in shirts. He was evidently wealthy, ashe had an establishment in Hamburg, and the institutes of his race, rather than any actual shortage in assets, made him travel in the capacity of cattleman. He had gained considerable knowledge in his  and had command of several languages. The commercial activity of the Jew was also evidenced in the presence of light Hungarian, none of whom could speak English. They were returning to their native land from Buffalo, where they had worked in the foundries. In who besides receiving a regular commission for engaging men as cattlemen, also hoaxed them out of all the money they had which amounted to some $10 a piece. For this he engaged to secure them passage all the way to Buda Pest which of course was a lie. The cattle foreman had, however, sworn that he would not take anyone who could not speak English. So when I chanced into his mink shop one day on the Bowery I found him giving them a course of instruction in elementary English. They were lined up on one side of the room, and the little Jew was quizzing them somewhat in this style. His Calieturm was interpolated with profanity, but I have left blank cartridges in the place of the paths. New York they had fallen prey to a villain by the name of Schwarz. This gentleman relieved them of all their cash, which was about $10 apiece, and engaged to secure their passage to Liverpool. He had first, however, to get them accepted by the cattle foreman, and for this purpose the little Jew put them three advise of instruction- not one of them being able to speak English- the lectere sight were hired up in his office and he quizzed them after this fashion: “Where are you from?” “Liverpole” in chorus. “No- G- d- you, Buffalo. Now, where are you from?” “Ya, ya, ya” “J- Ch- why don’t you say Buffalo.” This resulted in some hurried conversation among the men, whereupon with beaming continuances they returned the verdict “Buffalo.” “Good. Now have you had experience as cattlemen?” This staggered them. They shook their heads. “No, G- d- you, say ‘yes.’” They all nodded in acquiescence. “On what ship did you sail?” “Ya,” “ya” and nods. “No, no, say ‘White star line steamer’.” Now on what ship did you sail?” “White Sta stee-mer.” “Where did you sail to?” Lavverpole” “That’s right. Now start again. Where are you from?” With eyes beaming, as they - they were getting the key of the situation, they all replied in chorus “Lauverpole”. Again the sleek little Jew was obliged to drill them on the correct answer, and yet again, braking the regular order of the  with many oaths. But it was of no avail. His scholars, while willing enough, and anxious to learn, knew hardly a word of English and were old. Finally a bright idea struck him. He solicited from the group of expectant faces the one which seemed to show the greatest intelligence, and proceeded to drill him on the catechism. He was to act as spokesman for the entire party. With their hopes centered upon this individual, the party betook themselves with their meager belongings, to the cattleship on the morning she was to sail. The foreman met them as they came on deck and accosted them in this manner. “Who the hell are you, and what do you want here?” But they were prepared for the ordeal with their expectations centered upon the scholar of the crowd, they stood confidently by while that individual hastened to assume the position of responsibility- assigned to him. But, like a schoolboy crammed for a quiz, all his presence of mind left him when confronted by the first question and he could only stammer “Lavverpole”, while the countenances of the rest fell as it appeared that intelligent communication had not been established. Liverpool? Who are you? What’s your business?” The spokesman shook his head and stammered again “Lavverpole.” “Livverpool, Liverpool, are you cattlemen, have you had any experience? The spokesman shook his head, “Oh you’re not cattlemen. Do you do any work?” All presence of mind had left the spokesman and he only continued to stammer “Lavverpole”, while the crest-fallen countenance in the background indicated that the mainstay of all there hopes had given away. But chest then the jew, who had been attending to some invoices, espied them and hastened to the scene. The fore-man turned angrily to him. “J- Ch-, can’t these men talk English? What the H- can I do with men that can’t understand me? Get out o’ here.” But the jew had dealt with the foreman before. He drew him aside, there was a muttered exchange of words relative to dollars and cents, and the foreman, keeping up a show of ill appeased wrath turned to the foreigner and gesticulated to them to go below. Another member of this motley assembly  the name of Attims, but we discovered afterwards that his real name was Ray, and that he was an exhibition diver and swimming teacher by occupation. He was uncertain as to his nationality as he was  on a British ship in the harbor of San Francisco. He had pursued his profession for some time in Chicago and was acquainted with Alerman Coghlan- According to his statement, he had not spent more than four months in any one place for twelve years. He was several seasons at Coney Island. In the winter he migrated to the Bahama Islands, and taught the winter  swimming. A young Scotchman, Brown by name, was also in the company. He was a wood-worker by trade, earning $13 a week in Providence R. I. He was returning to his nature heath, to his wife and his native health, to his wife and relatives. He said he had refused to join the Union, al-tho by membership in the organization he could have raised his salary to $25 a week. Al-tho wages were higher in the U.S., living, he claimed, was nonexpensive, and he thought that in the end he could do as well in Scot-land. Brown made good friends with a man by the name of Robb. He had originally been a plumber, but for some reason had left his business, which was a good one and had shipped with a friend as a muleteer on one of the British transports carrying mules to South Africa. At Cape Town they reshipped as seamen on a tramp for Java. Here Robb and his friend parted company, the latter shipping for Taubauer, and Robb shipping on a tramp cargo carrying seegar to New York. He and his friend had agreed to meet in that city, but I did not learn whether they saw each other. In New York Robb fell in with Schwarz and shipped as cattlemen. Another member of the cattle gang was a man by the name of Smith whose people lived in Pueblo, Col. He had worked in the offices of the Iron Mountain Road, but the desire for adventure for seeing the world had caught him and he had been drifting over the United States. He wanted to go to South Africa, but could not obtain a permit, and so was going to wait another year until restrictions had been removed. South Africa seemed like a fatal mirage, keeping him from setting down, and constantly drawing him on. He seemed to have no special object in view in going to Liverpool, and was going to return with the -  getting to Liverpool he became seriously sick. He had a swelling of some kind in his  with lame joints and a weak back. I saw him the day we arrived in Liverpool. The captain had ordered the steward to look after him, but he did not take him to the hospital until evening. A seaman carried him poum the fo’cole to the warehouse and there he was setting at 3 in the afternoon where I got my baggage to go up to the Hughes Hotel. I gave him my address and told him to let me know if he needed anything. The foremen were MacDonald for Swift & Co. and Flynn for Morris & Co. The former was a Scotchman, and when under the influence of his national beverage developed a strong propensity for picking a quarrel. The crew were remarkable in the first place for the extensive vocabulary of assorted profanity of which they seemed to have command and in the second place for the readium with which they dropped all “Haitshes” or substituted them when not required-Poor Charlie was the object of most of the profanity. The cook was constantly pitching into him, the cattlemen and seamen blamed him for their poor face and the foremen were always getting him into trouble by stealing his plum duff- the “bloody plum duff” formed the subject of a good man affrays. At Ruis got along pretty well with everybody. In the evening, when the cattle had been fed, Robb and Tuck and Brown at Atkins and myself would collect on the bales of hay just “fovvord” of the galley and swap yarns, and enter into controversies in regard to the relative prices and merits of English and American clothes, shoes, hotels and board. The cook, Charlie,  and Macdonald usually formed the background of the group. Occasionally the steward on the carpenter would pause a minute to listen to the argument. But the most interesting company was the red tar, “Jack”, Thomas Jackson by rights. It was easy to engage him in conversation and in rambling reminisciences of his career as seaman, from the turn he first shipped on a “skoner” sailing from Glasgow to Lisbon in “Portugay.” “Jack’s” rise in the world had been sure but slow, for in the thirty years he had followed the era he had not advanced from the position of a common seaman. His slowness of apprehension was illustrated by his  repealed complaints against the “taylor” in “Lavverpool” who had sold him a pair of boots which Hack discovered, after arriving in New York, were both “lefters” and on that account decidedly uncomfortable. He engaged one of the firemen in conversation at 4 o’clock one morning and kept up a continuous stream of talk until he was silenced by the first officer whose slumbers he had disturbed. As the cook said “’twas enough to give a man a fit o’ the nerves.” On night old Jack sat down in the crowd at about 8 bells and began a series of reminiscences telling how he had won “nine pounds ‘o salvage money at one time from a ship which they “tawed” 298 fro’ the Bay of Biscay to Falmouth, while his “choom” had won 108 pounds on a ship caught in the same gale which they “Twoed only 8 mile fro’ the Horsehead Banks to Liverpool.” Charlie was standing in the galley stripped 6-the waist, washing, “Jack” interpolated an aside to Charlie to the effect that he moaned have to “scrub himself a bloody long time before he would scrub his black skin white.” “I say Chayrlie”, he continued, “put some plum duff out and let me tell you whether it’s good or not- I’m a bloody fool if I say it’s no good” “What the hell are you doing here? “Jack” looked up quickly. It was the hosum- “An has he bloody bell gone?” he exclaimed an innocent surprise. “Sure- get out o’ here” “I tell you Pete, this black man is a leading me astray.” and he trundled off. “Jack,” or Thomas Jackson, was an “up country man” as the cook informed me. He was from Preston, where in his boyhood he had earned 2 shillings a week by polishing spindles His father, Jackson explained, was a “locksmith on the swirl”” and tho seventy-eight years of age was still working at his trade. in a “Spindle an’ eye works” For the cotton factories of the district. This was done by friction with every and oil He explained to me that Preston was no “sayfaring place”, but the sailor from Liverpool had come up and married the lasses in the cotton mills, and the young men had taken to the sea gradually- Jackson’s mother died when he was a young boy and he had never come to terms with his step mother,  he was now 55 years of age. He never went to his father’s house in Preston, but always stayed with his sister. He went to sea when a young boy, sailing on a “skoner carryin’ coal to Lisbon in Postigay, an’ loadin there witts flour. The skipper was owner o’ the craft as well as bein’ skipper. There was a young chap, large by name, who was my mate. ‘E was a German an’ he left his country because in Germany every male son has to join the arm. An’ a proper mat Jarge was, he was that. Why, I’ve known the time when he would cry a whole day because I quip him an unkind word- an’ the best thing you get on this ship is ‘go to tree.” ‘ E was a big chap, was Jarge- six foot eight. an’ he was always lookin after me because I never was big (“Jack” barely measured five foot four). When it was thick weather he would always turn out first, an’ he would always be after doin’ the hard jobs an’ tending me well, we railed several voyages, an’ there the skipper, ‘is misses died, an’ he took it to ‘art pearpie. ‘E began boosin’ like steam. Why, in three weeks he spent a hender an’ seventy-eight pound. ‘E didn’t sail no more, an’ I shipped on another craft, an’ I don’t know what became o’Jarge. The last I see o’ him was on the pier at Glasgow, twenty nine year ago an’ I never heard o’ him since.” I tried to discover to what particular prtion of England the dialect spoken on ship board was peculiar, but was unable to get satisfactory south. The cook said all the seamen and princes “every mother’s son o’ them,” was from “iveland, that God myother country.” Jackson informed me that his father was “seventy” four year old, an’ still workin’ at ‘is trade. E’s blacksmith on the swirl.” My first meeting with Jackson was on the second morning out of New York. He informed me that “You mate, the chap wi’ the thin face, ‘e’s on the pope, a pomping ship.” Tuck had been feeling bad all morning- it was somewhat rough- and I readily guessed what he was doing. Charlie, the second cook, was a West Indian, born and raised in Deearee. He was very proud of the fact that he was “on the square”, and thought a great deal of me from the start because I happened to wear a Masonic emblem. The first mate, he informed me, as also a square man, but he warned me to be “cashus with the steward, because we haven’t proved him yet. Don’t give him the grip or any sign- you unnerstan’. The cook, he say he on the square, but I am very particular and very “cashus.” Charlie was a bright fellow, and as he informed us, was endeavoring to unprove himself, as that he could get a better position. “You unnerstan’.” The position was paying him $10 a month. Whenever he got to Liverpool he bought the London papers and read about the stocks, “there the overplus of my money I invest so that I can go home to Denerard to my brother. You see I don’t want to go home until I make something of myself- you .” Like all persons with a strain of the can blood- his mother, long since dead, was a white half caste. Charlie took great pride in showing us two stiff bunches of straight hair, and contrasting them with his wooly fibre- his father was a negro Charlie was fond of long words. He somewhere acquired the “mo’ bettah” of the pidg in English. I think from the Chinese laborers who were unreported into the colony, for Charlie, who is setting in the room as I write, informs me that there are “the greatest quantity of Chinese we Demerara.” “The greatest quantity of coolies too- India.” The following was the Gengiaces’ crew. Captain and three mates, 4 bosums, 138 Eam 15 trimmers and firemen, 4 greasers, 4 engineers, first and second steward, first and second cooks, one carpenter, 1 steerman, 1 donkeyman, scons being, as my Greek professor used to say, a euphemism for slop. 4 cold storage engineers, 2 cattle foreman, 2 paid cattleman (Murphy and Martin), 13 cattlemen. Altogether about 70 men. It was the first cooks duty to prepare the meals for the officers. Charlie prepared the icons a kind of hash. made of fresh beef, potatios flour paste, with burnt sugar and tar, pepper and salt as a condiment. This, with coffee, formed the breakfast for the seamen and cattlemen. For dinner Charlie feasted them on barley soup, salt beef (salt horse), and “spuds” boiled in the peel. In the evening they had tea and hard tack. The firemen got the same, with the exception of the watch which carried the coal for the galley had the privilege of the “block pon,” consisting of the havings of the officer’s mess. The “block pon”, or “bloody black pon,” was the subject of a good many vociferous disputes. As Charlie said, “if they don’t get sufficient beef they won’t bring up coal the next day-or if they don’t get read, they kick up a row- with me,” Charlie adds significantly. The cattlemen and [ ] got head three times a week. This fact was a frank source of complaint with the Hungarian cattlemen. “no bread- no straw, no work.” The firemen were given each a wine glass of rum every day at noon, as Charlie says, “to encourage them to work to get up steam to arrive in port quick.” This rum was originally dealt out by the steward, but on the previous voyage that worthy had paid such attention to the store empided him that he was drunk for five days. His honorable prerogative was therefore taken out of his hands. The seamen received a portion of schnapps every time they assisted the firemen in shoveling the coal into the bunkers. As further compensation for this additional service they received half a crown each at the end of the voyage, and the  a pound “for driving them,” as Charlie says. The donkeymen also received 15 shillings each for supervising the work. I learned from the cook that there were a good many men in New York like Schwarz. They had their headquarters along the Bowery and Fourth Avenue. Poor returning immigrants would go to him to secure package. He would exact every penny of them, giving them in return a trip on some cattle-ship to a port on the other side, they engaging to work as cattlemen, and giving them tickets which if they presented as a certain place could entitle them to passage on a cattle train to their home. Of course when they arrived at the foreign port they discovered too late that there was no such address, and they would be left stranded. Early on the morning of Nov. 4 the Irish coast was sighted, and during the whole day we skirted the South Coast. Here we had the roughest weather of the entire trip. On the 5th we got over the bar at the mouth of the Mersey river and proceeded at once to the Lairage at Birkenhead where the cattle were landed. At two in the afternoon I left the ship with the cook and went Talencia, Lemons from Malagar and wheat from the Black Sea. Liverpool, Nov. 8. Visited the Lairage at Birkenhead. This is owned and controlled by the Mersey Docks and arbour Board. All cattle from foreign countries are required to be landed here, and by law they have to be killed within two days. Domestic cattle are slaughtered at separate abattons. The principal beef companies, such as Swift & Co., D.H. Elliot & Co. Morris Co. hire space here of the Board, paying a tax on every animal killed. The slaughtering is a sickening sight at best. The men are hired and paid by the piece. Five men have charge of the entire process of killing and quartering the bullocks. The slaughtering pens occupy the ground floor of the building, the three floors above being used as fattening pens. The greatest precautions are taken to prevent the spread of any disease from the Lairage. For three years no cattle from Argentina have been allowed to land here, or in any part of England. This restriction is due to the pest which broke out among Argentine cattle three years ago. Dogs are not allowed on the premise of the Lairage- if one happens to stray on, he is killed, as it is feared they might spread disease. Cats, however, are unmolested. In the afternoon I called on R. Kelly, representative of the American Machinery Mfg. Co (Chas. Strellinger & Co. of Detroit). He handles a wood trimmer. This labor saving machine was first introduced in 1894, the company sued my men all over England introducing the machines, and then leaving Kelly in charge of their agency. A good deal of opposition was encountered at first; but when it was discovered what a great saving of labor resulted from its use, it became quite popular. Mr. Kelly informed me that English powers were always anxious to obtain and use American tools- tho a joiner would rather lose his job than hang an American made door. Nevertheless, doors and sashes are imported by the thousand and can be seen every day at the North Mersey Eords States. The English joiner explains the inconsistency in his practice by saying that American tools are superior to the English make, but that doors and sashes are inferior. Later in the day I called on Mr. Jones, manager of the Emerson Shoe Co., on Lord St. This banch has been established since April 21. The English are somewhat suspicious of American goods, suspecting the presense of Yankee tricks. This is not altogether without mistification. Some firm acquired a popularity by putting superior shoes on the market, and then selling off inferior goods, out of style and un-usable in the states. This is the case with what is known as red leather goods. This can stand hardly any ware in the English climate. The Emerson Shoe Co. maintains a per polishing establishment. This is a puzzle to Englishmen. They wonder how such an institution can pay, and feel it almost an imposition to have shoes shined there. Mr. Jones explains to them that they are glad to shine shoes, and if necessary would hire a dozen new to black shoes for them. It is, of course, a good advertisement, as American shoe dealers have long since learned- but to the Englishman the idea is in- comprehensible. An Englishman does not want anything for which there is no practical use. This is illustrated in the way they regard the crease across the poult of the Emerson shoe. These crease a little back of the toe, break up the surface, and make a handsome article. But the Englishman can-not understand why they should be there, and as a result the Emerson Company is obliged to sell them shoes without the creases. The sliding ladder, used by almost every American dealer to reach the goods on the topmost shelves, is also a source of wonder to the natives. Mr. Jones tells me it is very interesting to hear the comments of customers on the piece of furniture. The for this ladder was unable to place a single article in any Liverpool store- the business men prefer the old method of the step ladder. The English firms are coming to initiate American shoes. Some manufacturers in England turn out shoes and give them an American name. This is the case with Randall, of the American Shoe Co. He manufacturers what is called the “Merican” shoe. In this construction two clippings from the London Daily mail of Nov. 3 and 5 are of interest. The latter I found posted on the show window of the walk- over Shoe Co., and American firm. This firm has been in Liverpool since Dec., 1901. They have there branch in London, one in Birmingham, one in Glasgow, one in Manchester, and are opening new branches right along. Some English shoe firms have buyers in the United States. His  of the English Shoe & Leather Co. In the evening I wandered up to Lewis’s Department Store. This street is largely a market street and there was great animation everywhere- people buying in supplies for Sunday. The  girls on the street were hawking “Merrican apples” Mr. zones says an American Landry would make large profits in Liverpool. Next Monday I am going to call on Richard Philip Davis, a Yankee of the first water, who has watched the progress of American trade here for nearly five years. Liverpool. Nov. 10. Spent the morning at the Canada and Harrington Docks. At the former the Laurig was unloading a cargo of American products- Santa Clara plums, pork carcasses, cotton bales, corn machinery from Manning, Maxwell and Moore, of N.Y., casks of lard, bags of flour from Uplin, apples in barrels, raw materials for laundry mangels in the form of octagonal sticks. These octagonal sticks, I was informed, are taken up to Yorkshire and rounded there. From the Canada Docks I went to the Harrington to see the steamer “Collegian” unload the biggest cargo of cotton from New Orleans on record- 35,000 bales. From ere I went to the drydocks- the Herculanean- where a number of ships were undergoing repairs Returning to the Harrington I was a represent-tative of the Elder Denipolis hive. This   stramps to West Coast of Africa. The last steamer had discharged a cargo of palm oil kernels. Most of the oil is  exported to Catholic countries where they are manufactured into candles. The leaves of the palm oil grow in a cluster like a pine apple. Right as this cluster the oil is formed. The head is cut out and the oil melted out. Formerly the kernels were thrown away. It was then discovered that they could be used in making oil, and they immediately rose in value to £80 a ton. They are now worth £20 they make a kind of white oil. The evening I spent with Mr. Richard Philip Davis, an American thru and thru. Four generations of his family had worn the naval uniform of the United States. His father received his death wound serving under Foote at New Orleans. His father Jerry was killed at Cumberland Gap and his brother Theodore, I believe, at Mobile. He was living an unwilling exile in Liverpool, longing for the day when he could return home and die in God’s country. He informed me that the pretended friendship of England for the United States did not go skin deep. This friendship sprang suddenly into existence after Dewey’s victory. Before that Englishmen were anticipating, if not hoping for American reverses. The Sough African war has been a terrible drain on England’s resources. The public dear has increased £250,000,000 and consuls have fallen from 117 to 93, and some of the best securities in the country have taken a large drop. Liverpool- Nov. 11- Spent the morning at the docks trying to get pictures, but was unsuccessful on account of the clouds. At the Canada Docks saw there unloading the White Star S.S. “Haurig.” They were taking off cotton bales, dressed beef, Sala Clara plums in boxes, corn, machinery from Manning, Maxwell & Moore, of N.Y., casks of lard, bags of flour Toledo, O., dressed pork, apples in barrels, raw material for laundry mangles, and products from Nelson Morris & Co., Next visited the North Mersey Goods Station of the Lancashire and Yorkshire R.R. Most American products for railroad reshipment come in here. There were scattered about organs, from Farrand & Valey, Hamilton pieces, doors and sashes, apples in barrels, cheeses, eggs, and many other things. Trummers from Ave. Mach. Mfg Co. was caught in the rain, as usual, on my return. In the afternoon I called on the Town “clerk”, who gave me the names of a number of people to see in regard to Liverpool’s municipal enterprises. I first called upon Mr. F. T. Ruton, Deputy City Surveyor, who talked with me about American municipal politics and enterprises. He told me he had been in the employ of the corporation for thirty-six years, and had been promoted from one place to another until he reached his present position. He then sent Mr. J. Taylor out with me to see the municipal laborer’s dwellings Mr. Taylor explained to me that they made a distinction between “workmen” and “laborers” The former have some trade- the letter depend upon casual employment. It is for this latter class that the dwelling houses are intended. Three things are necessary for a man to obtain a municipal house- 1. He must have been dispossessed. 2. He must behave himself while in the corporation’s house. 3. He must pay his rent. As we approached the houses, or rather house, for what they call houses here are really flats, the women we found Indus-triously sweeping hallways, steps, and cleaning up generally. Mr. Taylor explained that it was one of his daily furdeus to prod these people on to a higher sense of cleanliness. The great majority of the dwellings were remarkably clean, and I was surprised, after seeing the character of buildings from which these tenants cause, that such a transformation in their habits could have taken place. In one row of dwellings a recreation room was provided for the tenants. Mr. Taylor said, however, that this recreation room was hardly ever used. The largest number present in it during the past week had been only three. The men prefer to go to pubs. They are so low down that they are unable to appreciate a recreation room. This one was supplied with magazines, games and a fine fire place. The feelings of this class have been so blunted that they can feel no gratitude for what is being done for them. Mr. Taylor says it is discouraging to think sometimes how little they appreciate what is being done for them- but he says a person must always make allowance for the environment in which these people have been raised. When they gave a concert on one occasion for the tenants many of them asked whether they would be paid for attending. The Corporation Guild, whose membership consists of the employees of the city, give  entertainments for the people. We visited also some of the areas that had been condemned. The condition of the people was miserable beyond description. The usual tenement consisted of two floors and a garret. The panes were broken out of the windows, filth and  were collected about the doors, the children were breeders of all manner of vermin. In one such place an epidemic of typhus had broken out, and an old woman told us that twenty-eight children had been left orphans. In all the dwellings there were framed funeral cards, containing all inscription something like this- “Sacred to the memory of Patrick O’Hymn, who died on the 14th day of November, 1902, and was interred in ___ Cemetery.” The people are very “Keen” for these funeral cards, as Mr. Taylor in-formed me. They form funeral clubs, paying out the treasury a penny or two penee a week, and when they die they are given a respectable funeral. Liverpool. Nov. 12. Took photographs of the S.S. Canadian discharging a cargo of live stock at Birkenhead. Then went to the Canada Docks where I saw on board of the “Laurig” a refrigerates enque. Went to the North Mersey Goods Station. The superintendent was very genial, and showed me all over the yards. The station is equipped with splendid cranes for handling freight. Wheat is handled in bags only. About 70,000 bags were stored in the warehouse. But the best thing the superintendant had to show me was a colossal car, made after American patterns, and having a capacity of 30 tons. I then called on Mr. C.R. Bellamy for information with regard to the corporation tramways. He told me that the carriage of workmen to and from places of business in the morning and evening was but a small item- the super-taut and paying item was the short trips made by passengers during the day. A penny is good for a 2 ¾ mile ride, but very few people ever ride so far. 89% of the passengers pay penny fares.Liverpool, Nov. 13. In the morning I called again on Mr. Lurton and Taylor, and then went with the latter gutteman to the dwellings in Fontlroy St. taking several pictures. In the afternoon I called on the Secretary of the Docks Board, Mr. Miles K. Burton. He explained the septon of  . Every vessel pays dockage according to tonnage burden, and the consignees pay warehouse does on the merchandise landed. No attempt is made to make money out of the dock estate. Any surplus, after meeting the sinking fund and the tax rate, is devoted to diminishing the dock dues. Later I called upon the Water Department. This is also in the ownership and control of the city. The ratepayers pay for water, according to act of Parliament, 6d per pound. In addition to this the local authorities may lay an additional tax to meet expenses. Of course businesses of a certain character pay an additional rate. Hotels and restaurants, however, pay simply a rate based upon the rental value. Later I called at the office of the Engineer of the City Baths and Washhouses. The bath at the Randing Stage is the oldest in the city, having been established in 1828. There is a great deal to admire in the public spirit manifested by the council-men and in the pride taken by the only officials in their work. The dignity of the city government is impressed upon one. The councilmen receive no compensation whatever for their services. The office is considered such an hour that candidates are never lacking. The Lord Mayor receives a compensation of £2,000 a year, “to maintain the dignity of the office”, Mr. Taylor tells me, but this amount by no means compensates him for the actual outlay. There are fifty magistrates in the city, corresponding to our justices of the peace, and only one of these, the stipendiary, receive any compensation. The office, however is regarded as a high hour, and is eagerly sought. Many of the ablest business men in the city are glad to write J.P. after their names. I called at the American Consulate and looked over the reports relating to Liverpool. The Vice-Consul was of the opinion that the municipality was going too far in its enterprises and that it had the effect of cramping individuality, in this regard supplementing the work of the Trades- Many of these union went so far as to set down the amount of work a man could do in a given time, and if he exceeded that amount, his employer would be asked to discharge him. Because he was violating the rules of the trade. In an American who believes in the development of individual enterprise and initiative, all these municipal undertakings, and the half hearted  which people seem to have upon themselves is distinctly distasteful. Liverpool. London. Nov. 14. Left Liverpool at 9:45 and arrived in London at 1:40 pm. Passed thru a beautiful arming country, dotted over with tenants cottages, and occasionally a little church. In the same compartment was a sailor boy who had just returned from a voyage to Australia. He was going to his home in the South of England to meet his six brothers who were all officers in the merchant marine, and his only sister. Arriving in London I called at Parr’s Bank, and then stopped for the night at the Waverly. In the evening attended Savoy Theatre, seeing Kitty Loftus in Naughty Nancy. The omnibuses are the most picturesque Feature of London struts. I would rather travel on them than any septum of street cars in the world. London. Nov. 15. Took up lodgings with Mr. Evans at 27 Upper Bedford Place, Russell Square. Visited St. Paul’s in the afternoon. Eng-land should produce great men every day when she has these inscriptions to her departed great to inspire men to worthy lives. Visited the stone gallery, and the Library also. The most eloquent inscription is that to Sir Christopher Weln: Si monumentum requires circumspill- indeed nothing could be grander and more impressive. What a wonderful builder he was and how far ahead of his time. One marvels to think how this structure could have been erected with the crud appliances of the day. Strolled down to whitechapel. Something I have never seen before is the pastel drawing on the trotters. Saw this for the first time in part of the Customs Building in Liverpool, and again on Gower Street, London. The artists are very clever. London. Nov. 16. Spent the day shivering in  of a grate-fire. Most of the heat seemed to fly up the chimney to arm the birds of the air. Strolled down Whiticross and saw the people busy selling vegetable and other utilities on the Sabbath. I am told it is only the commoner class of people who do this. In the afternoon I visited the British Museum, paying special attention to the Elegiu Marbles and the busts of the old Roman emperors. These are executed in a wonderfully vigorous style. The portrait of Nero was as I would imagine. The brow is low, the jowls wide ad heavy, and the lower lip protruding. London. Nov. 17- Called on Mr. Joseph Choate, our Ambassador. He received me very cordially. I explained the purpose of my trip and he said he would be glad to assist me to information on defiant pints. Mr. Choale is a man of medium size, carries himself easily, and like all great men, gives you a strong hand-shake. The most noticeable feature of his face is the eyes, which are unusually large. The lower lid droops. His nose is thin and beaked. Spent the afternoon in Westminster Abbey. This is a wonderful place. I was particularly interested in the tomb of Queen Eleanor of Castille. The effigy of the queen is beautiful, and the expression on the face charming. Many wives are buried here with their husbands. The inscriptions usually speak of the virtue and devotion of the wife. The inscription on the monument of the Duke of Newcastle tells how his wife followed him -exile during the Interregnum and accompanied him also in his return. The most realistic sculpture is that on the monument to the Lady Nightingale. Death is represented as creeping out of a tomb and hurling his dart at the Lady while her husband in horror throws out his hand as if to avert the blow. Everyone goes to see the baby in the cradle, a monument to an infant daughter of James I- I cried  understand what cohesive force kept together the various elements of the British Empire. It is not force- for none is used; it cannot be common interest; for the economic interests of the different colonies are most divers; it is not common law, for every colony has its own constitution. The secret is in the historic associations so vividly presented to the mind in the tombs and monuments of the Abbey and of St. Pauls. I can understand the flood of emotion that must overcome a man from the colonies, when after crossing many seas, he stands with uncovered head on the Abbey and is proudly conscious of his Kinship with this nightly past. I almost envy him his heritage. But the men of America rise to a greater height by contrast; they had none of the two to inspire them; they constructed their own ideals and established their own traditions and associations. How income barely greater are they than the Kings and dukes of England. Have become acquainted with a bright young Chman, Shen by name, are attaché of the Chinese Legatine. He’s studying politics and economics in King’s College. London- Nov. 18- Called on  for manager of the South African Company. He received me cordially. He said they were glad to receive colonists and capital  all nations- they derived great  the new ideas brought by different peoples. There was no danger, either of foreign colonists alienating the country name England. For  Mr. For delivered me over to Mr. Alfred Bronswick, librarian of the company. He showed me a considerable library of literature which the company had collected. Africa, he said, was his field he had devoted himself to it for the last seventy years. He said he was glad to welcome Americans- glad new like Bryan and Yorks were coming open into Bagland, they were waking up some of our “old fossils who are a thousand years behind the time.” Called on Mr. Evans, American Consul General. He impressed me as a typical American and a shrewd politician. I did not get much information from him. I imagine he is too busy with politics to be able to give much attention to trade and matters of that kind. Did some photography of street characters. London. Nov. 19. Spent the morning trying to locale some of my old friends of the Chefoo School. Called on the China Inland M. office on Pysland Road, but found to my chagrin  Mr. Aristry was in Liverpool. Called in the afternoon on Mr. Bronswick. He complained bitterly of the fon transportation facilities in London. It took him two hours each day to go and come from his office a distance of ten miles. He had prepared an outline of important weeks in African  from me to study from. The London to go at times, he said, interfered seriously with business. The fog was composed largely of smoke, and I pointed out to him that a part of the girl could be recovered by business houses adopting pervades, and then having a city ordinance making the use of smoke consumers compulsory. Called on  struthers,  he was unable to give me any assistance towards getting transportation on an English troop ship from St. Helena- About four o’clock I visited the House of Commons. The House in Committee was discussing the board of managers provided under the Education Bill. The opposition, I thought, scored a good many points, and the government did not seem united in their interpretation of the bill, not consistent in their general attitude. The Government had disclaimed that the Bill was in the nation of a ; one of the newly elected members, who evidently had not heard the first part of the debate, took the position that it must be in the nature of a concordance with the church, for the consent of the church had to be obtained, and the government could not take every thing out of the hands of the churchmen without their wonsul: Mr. Avery Campbell- Baumerman as well the weak point. There was also an ascendant calling for a certain representation of parcels on the board. The Government speaker argued that while a man had a right to say some- thing about the Education of his children, he had no right to say anything about the education of anybody else’s. This weak excuse was at once ridiculed by the opposition. In James Bryce spoke several times on the opposition. His arguments were pointed, clear and convincing. Mr. Balfour did not repress me favorably. His speeches were weak, and he had a habit of stammering between his clauses which seemed to me to approach affectation. The House decides by going out of the hall to right and left; the nays to the left, the ayes to the right. Ladies are not allowed to sit in the galleries-they are concealed behind screens at each end of the hall. None of the members made notes and all of them spoke without  Most of them wore their “tiles”, which they removed when addressing the house. Many  about in careless attitudes- Balfour had his legs in a horizontal position most of the time, propping them against the speaker table. The speaker does not seem to exercise any special power- he simply recognizes them who wish to speak, and the opposition seemed to be granted ample opportunity to air their views. The benches of the members are upheld  wit leather and must be very un-comfortable. The whole body seems to move in a very simple unceremonious way, and one would hardly think that  are interested the affairs of a great empire. Perfect decorum prevails there is no unnecessary noise or rowdiness. London. Nov. 20. Called at the Royal Colonial Institute and had a talk with the Librarian who offered me the use of the library. Had quite an argument with him on the value of India to England. I met his trade argument, and he then said that British occupancy kept the country out of the hands of others. Proceeded them to the Embassy where I was informed, much to my surprise, that the silver Key could be used to good advantage in gaining admission to the House of Commons- also that there was no impropriety in tipping policemen. This is the prevalent evil of the country, and probably must always be a result of fixed classes. The lower classes, having no hope for rising, have a right to expect gratuities from those in the upper ranks. London No. 21. Visited the House of Commons again. it was private member’s day. Also bought my ticket for Cape Town by the S. S. “Aberdeen” of the Aberdeen Line. In the House of Commons I heard Lord Charles Bernfad speak on the case of the 9th Lancers. He referred to a distinguished brother who had served in the regiment. This reference brought on cheers. He spoke in a rather guttural tone of voice, and after his gestures let his arms swing backwards and forwards. Lord G. Hamilton, the Secretary for Indies, spoke in a quick dignified way, but -Hi si a small ma, with a dark beard- Dr. Farquarson in a din of disapproval, and before implying benches, spoke on the liquor traffic in Assam. For the evening I had been invited to dive at the house of Mr. Mirs Scale, just off vigo subject, mar Piccadilly. Mrs. Scali was an American, but has become quite English. The conversation led to many remarks about the differences between English and American Institutions. It was -lim for me that the king and royal family were quite a factor in business. Many business men insured themselves against was from the King’s death. An American cannot realize what extent the life of the royal family affects business throughout the country. The whole nation goes into mourning on the death of a prince. The result is that dry food merchants, caterers, dress makers, and others who make their living from social junctions suffer swear business prestatine. The nobility, I was informed, are not an idle and worthless  upon the country. They are really kept busy. Many of the industries, such as the base industry of Ireland, and the making of plaids in the North of Scotland have been revived thru their efforts. After  Mrs. Scali offered me cigarettes, and calmly smoked several herself. London. Nov. 22. Called on same Alfred at the Sun Life Office, 157 Newington Causeway, South London. He gave me considerable motion and advise relative to tips. The cat-man should have 2d, the barber 1d, the station patir 2d, or at most 3d, the waitress at lunch 1d, and so on. His an immensely complicated system. In the afternoon I visited the Tower of London, approaching Tower Hill from Lower Street. Here many public executions have been held. The Tower is just before you, the four turrets of the White Tower showing above the wall and the defensive towers. Went into the Tower by the Middle Tower, the Moat Bridge, the Matle Tower and the Bloody Tower uprite the Wakefried Tower, where the Crown Jewels are kept. Then proceeded to the White Tower, going up a staircase into St. John’s Chapel and thence into the armory. Crossed the parade ground to the site of the scaffold where Ann Boleyn and Lady Jane Grey were beheaded. Just as I entered the Branchamp Tower a black, uncanny  lighted on the railing by the stairs. The guard told me there were four on the grounds. He did not like the appearance of the uncanny bird which was perched quite near him, but did not disturb it. “Yes, they’re blacker inside than out, too,” he assured me. The same bird, I believe, was sitting on the rail when I came out. It was a cold, bleak day, with a sallow light over everything- the whole effect like the impression produced by an empty fifth. From the Tower I produced to the Royal Colonial Institute, and thence up to Picadilley, having my photographs, by the way, in the us. How to tell an American abroad- observe the hat. If this is soft, and not a “title” or a “bell topper”, it is a point in he wearer’s favor. Next observe the shoes- if these are well rounded and broad at the toe, made on a horse shoe last, and give the fool a short, chubby, appearance, this also is significant for may be reasonably certain that an America  between the two. Then if his deportment is one of ease and life. Long familiarity with his surroundings one many rest assured that the person in question comes from the land of the free. I was often puzzled to know how boot-blacks on the street  so quickly that we were Americans. They would call often us “merrykin shoe shine”, Yankee shoe polish”. His quite easy to understand. The American shoe is a distinct type, different from anything on this side of the Attantie- there is a nattinen, style, an individuality of self reliance about it, just as there is about the shoulders of American made coals which is very striking. The hook black being professionally interested in the feet of passers-by naturally  this characteristic at once. For clerks and shop-keepers the felt or fedora hat is an emblem of Americanism. Ever $5 a week check in England affects a “title”- a garment never seen in the United States except at important functions. London. Sunday Nov. 23- Spent the day reading and writing. In the afternoon visited the British museum and went thru the Egyptian Gallery away the mummies of three thousand years. A man’s own body is the least honorable memorial he can leave. Strange that his chief earthly instrument should retain the least of his individuality. The tools he works with, his hammers, his travel, his compass, his pen or his bench give a better and more accurate impression of his real self than the body into which he is born. The spirit shows itself in his works- accomplishments are everything, for they are the man himself. Around the galleries were disposed the mummies of Kings, princes, noblemen and chiefs, gazed upon by a curious throng of elderly men, well dressed women, and frolicksome boys. The sarcophagi, mummy cases and the wrappings were better memorials, and the artists who made them still live in the undiminished freshness of the paint and the vigorous outlines. The ladies are mere masses of filth and corruption. How stupendous has been tho activity of the human race! From the earliest monuments of the Assyrian to the Egyptian, the Etruscans, the Greeks and the Romans. What a mass of beliefs they have evolved to give vitality to their social organization. I could never understand why people should be willing to be taxed for the purpose of supporting a reigning family in splendor, luxury and possibly profligacy. This, however, is only the tribute which they offer to the idol of social organization. The modern state, wit its many activities and the many industrial interests which depend upon it is organization and as people value organization will they be willing to clothe their idol in fine linen and jewels. It is precisely analogous to the same Eastern people expend in decorating the images of their gods. There is a symphony of peculiar to every city. In Chicago we have he sym-phony in its most elementary form. There is a dull grinding roar, monotonous were it not for the crescendo and diminuendo of the elevated trains. In the background of orchestration we have a very simple theme of clanging street car bells. The London symphonyis rich in musical forms: the  is common. There are mumberler musical notes in the symphony: the sharp  of horses’ goofs, sounding far or near, low or high, and at varying tempos; the low roar of rolling wheels with its crescendo and diminuendo; the sharp shouts of street merchants. All of these produce a most complex musical whole. London. Nov. 24. “This blasted English drizzle makes the fever in my bones.” Typical London day- dark, foggy, with dry  rain which brought with it a cold which went to the marrow. Was compelled to come home in the afternoon and could not do any-thing for the rest of the day. London. Nov. 28: Called on Messrs Kauisch & Sable, leather merchants from Chicago, to whom I  a card of introduction from one of the clerks in the Consulate General Mr. Hauisch started in business here six years ago, and is remarkably successful. He represents a number of American leather manufacturers. He said American leather was making great inroads here. For some years the French and German factories had a monopoly on the production of glasi Kid, but today those factories are idle, and their owners are at their wits ends to Kum what to do with them. He thought, however the American shoe trade had reached its high watermark. English factories were beginning to manufacture on the American last. (In many windows I noticed the sign “made in England- American lash and fit). Men had been brought over from the states to teach the workmen. American shoe machinery had been introduced. The American shoe first gained popularity from its style and the fractional sizes, thereby securing a fit. This has now been harmed. The Americans, Mr. Hanisch said, paid no attention to the Expert business. They were so busy looking after domestic trade that they did not keep up their export business until they had a surplus on hand. Then, without warning, this surplus would be clumped on this side with orders to sell. Again, American were not accustomed to giving the long credit, six months or so, necessary in this country. Credit must be longer, as the banks will only loan on collateral or on endorsement. They will not finance the operations of a reliable business man. Of course, it makes conditions safer, but things move more slowly. Again, there are no books of commercial ratings like D or Bradstreet- and Englishman would consider it an insult to he asked the condition of his affairs by a mercantile agency. The strength, economically, of the United States Mr. Harrisch attributed to two things- the public school and the patent office. In England a man had to have a fortune to get a patent. I suggested that the public school, and the higher level of education, was a source of military strength, and would be more so in the future as the development in military service showed the value of the individual fighter over that of the man. He was designated with the British workman. He had too much charity bestowed upon him. There was no motive to improvement- if a man’s value arose above that of the average, the employee was informed that he would have to be dis-missed, or his output restricted. In this short-sighted way they attempt to secure work for a greater number in the union. He referred me to John Day of the “Shoe & Leather Record”, for information in regard to trades unions and business. Was to visit the house of Lords, but they did not convene until 4:10. I went to the Colonial Institute and read and then attended a meeting of the Institute, where Lady Hamilton, wife of a former Governor of Tasmania, read a paper on that island. There were present Sir. F. Buxton, ex Governor of S. Australia, the agent general of Tasmania, an ex- Governor of New Zealand, and here Charles Bereford. I was struck by the fine appearance of the audience- they were evidently all men who had served the government. England must be given credit for producing some fine administrators. When I returned to Westminster the Home of Lords had adjoined. London. Nov. 26. Wrote letters. Thought it was going to clear at noon and hurried home to get my camera, but it quickly fogged over. Attended a criminal case in the sea Bailey, which is being torn down, and sat with the members of the bar. London. Nov. 27. Thanksgiving Day was celebrated in a typical London Fog. Staged in doors all day and heard descriptions of what a real London fog is. The one I experienced, however, was quite sufficient. I believe if some catastrophe were to extinguish the light of the son Londoners would never miss that luminary. London. Nov. 28. Called on Mr. John Day, but not finding him in, talked with his assistant. He assured me that all one years of labor unions restricting output is absolutely true, and gave me a piece of evidence which appeared in the Shoe & Leather Record. He referred me to Heavy Bolton; of the Bolton Shoe Co., Milton House, Cheswell Street. I called on him. he assured me that what the shoe Leather man told me about men making work on the pulling over machine cost 4d instead of 1 ½ d per day was quite true. Mr. Bolton represents a number of manufacturers in the United States. He sells shoes from lasts which have been out of style in the United States for six years. Tried to develop photographs, and was fortunate enough to spoil a dozen. London, Nov. 29- Completed arrangements for embarking. Left the Fenchurch St. Station for Mauerway Station at 4:22 p.m. Found the Aberdun lying at the Royal Albert Docks. The third class apartment was flooded with Jews. About thirty of that persuasion were bound for Cape Town and their brothers and sisters and sisters children had come aboard to say adieu in their barbarian tongue and manner. Few of them understood English; they spoke. Yiddish, Polish, Russian and German,- anything but a curlized lingo. My cabinmate I found shortly before we left our moorings. His name was Brick.Wall, by profession a cutter, his house near Wilford Haven. He was leaving Eng-land in his health, being a sufferer from asthma, and was leaving behind him all his relatives, were his sweetheart. I soon found that he was a splendid fellow-straightforward, clean, a Christian, and remarkably well informed. We reached Plymouth Monday morning. Dec. 1. here we took on several additional passengers, among them two English ex officers. One of them, Ryall by name, had been engaged in the defense of Ladysmith. Another passenger was a York-shireman, the typical John Bull. He had served in Bradant’s House in Cape Colony. We had a stormy passage of two days across the Bay of Biscay. We met a squadron of English men-o’-war returning from Lisbon. After passing Finisterre we had calm sea. On the evening of Dec. 3 Breckwall and I were promenading the deck when suddenly I looked up and saw long flames shooting over the hurricane deck just off of the smoke stack. Almost simultaneously the officer on the bridge observed it and blew his whistle summoning the crew. It will not have been a matter of more than a few seconds before they had cut the hose down from the ra of the foreward; but we were impatient at the delay. They ran off with the hose, and to our -atism one of the sailors began to hunt for the connection. However, it was all over in less than three minutes, but meanwhile one of the Jews ran below and gave the alarm and his compatriots began to swarm on deck, jabbering excitedly in their noisome gibberish. What earthly good is a jew but to keep a foul clothing shop or to lend money at usurious rates? He is at heart a thorough coward, not to be relied on in any emergency demanding manly qualities. One morning, after the second bell, for breakfast had rung we heard some-one going stealthily around the Jewish quarters whispering “hering, hering.” When we arrived on the same, the children of  were already on the field regaling themselves with (what they consider) the delicacy. Brickwall informed me one day that he had found a bug in his bunk. Soon after we began to hear similar reports from other quarters, and one morning one of the stewards pitched the entire bedding of two Jews overboard. Santa Cruz de Lenerife- Dec. 9. Got up early this morning to catch a glimpse of Tenerife, but tho we saw the foothills, the Peak itself was veiled in clouds. As we came nearer and rounded the island we traced the military road which leads around the base of the precipitous mountains. Several antiquated forts, more menacing in their appearance of black, weather beaten stone, than formidable appeared on the coast, the proud flag of Spain floating above. I always thought the national flag crude in its colors and jarring upon a  of color harmony. But it is entirely appropriate in its native sunshine. It blend beautifully with the colors of a temperate climate. We in the North know nothing of the effect of color in architecture. I was enraptured with the delicate tints of the stucco of Kuerife. Delicate creams, pinks and blues combined to produce in the marvelously clear atmosphere a picture of dreamlike filminen. A Spanish pilot came aboard and took the ship to anchorage. Immediately peddlers began to swarm aboard with fruit, tobacco, matches, shawls and handkerchiefs. We made up a part of Eight; including the Stewardess, Brickwall and Ryall who acted as guide, master of ceremonies, and financial secretary. we engaged a boat for “two bob” a piece for the return trip, and rowed ashore, past a trim little Spanish gunboat. The Spanish boatswain said he had no use for Americans. “Nostee bona. Nostee bona.” I asked whether we could go aboard the gunboat and into the forts, claiming the privilege as an American: He turned away with a look of disgust. Evidently the inhabitants are brought up on the maxim that it is no disgrace to beg: Immediately we landed swarmed men, women and urchins pounced upon us, begging a penny. Our guide took us thru the public square, which was but a few steps from the landing, extending from the little mirk but which was the headquarters of “El Gotieru Militar.” From this place we went to the cathedral at whose doors filth beggars, covered so much of the pavement as was not wet with urine. An engaging young Spaniard showed us around the altars, chapels and rastry rooms. The decorations were cheap in the extreme, guilt, chromes, artificial flowers, but at a distance, when the sho was not present to the semen, the appearance was really harmonious and phasing. The southern races make a bold use of color in their architecture and decorations. Imagine the colors of the Spanish flag finding a place in Chicago or, worst of all, in London- yet in the beautiful at-mosphere of Tenerife they were imbued with a delicacy which blinds like gauze with the brooding tranquility. Behind the high altar we were shown a chapel, finished in cedar wood. I say finished- in fact only one side was finished. This side was covered with beautiful carvings of the  and Child surrounded by church. The whole showing a splendid conception and beautiful exectution. The other three walls, however, showed only the bare cedar planks. On one wall was a crude portrait painting, and on the stone floor there was traced a skull and crossed bones and the  “Requiescant in Pace.” Our guide informed us that the painting was a likeness of the artist, and having died two hundred years ago before the completion of his work, he was buried in the chapel. No one had touch the work since. There was a large proportion of soldiers in the population. Their gay uniforms- red trousers with black stripes and blue  edged with red were everywhere in evidence. Ryall and Finnigan were struck with their unsoldierly bearing. On closer inspection we found that the houses were of stone and washed in the delicate  we admired. There was little noise in the streets- a summer siesta seemed to have descended upon the town. But occasionally as we wandered through the streets a shutter would be pushed gently open, and as we glanced up a glimpse of a Spanish beauty- and those eyes! I can never see a pair of beautiful eyes without being reminded of Tenerife. Romance we Northern people do not know the word- We haven’t the first stage settings of Romance- Compare a glance like that, thru a half opened shutter, in the siesta stillness of a Spanish town with the hurly burly love making in an American town! We had seen all the sights of the town but we continued to wander in the quiet streets enchanted. (Spain’s dark glancing daughters- Black eyed maids of Heaven angelically kind- Childe Harold The children all seemed well cared for- in fact parents seemed to take a special pride in dressing them beautifully. My were all pretty, with large dark eyes. At about half past five we began to gather as the boats to return to the Aberdeen which was scheduled to mail at 7 p.m. We had bought several baskets of fruit, which proved a boon in the hot tropics. The captain got unsteadily into the boat- he had evidently drunk too deeply- we pushed off amid a chorus of “qi’ me penny,” and soon were hauling over the swells which made some rigorous rowing necessary. The captain’s head began to swim, and when we got alongside he fell into the bottom of the boat before sneaking a successful attempt to clamber out. Dec. 7. En route, Tenerife to Cape Town. Had beautiful weather. I spent the days in reading and playing games with Ryall and Brickwall. We pitched quoits in team, played cards, and finally succeeding in evolving a ball from a lot of ship’s twine and canvas, had several exciting games of hockey and cricket. During this time I read Royce’s “-sious of South Africa”; Conan Doyle’s “The Great Boer War”; Anson’s “The Law and Custom of the Constitution”; and by way of diversion, Steven-son’s “The Wreckers”, which in most its portraiture of American life and character in grossly exaggerated and wildly inaccurate. Some of the chapters of Doyle’s book I read with Ryall, who gave vigorous sketches of the engagements which he had witnessed. Ryall and I collected the talent on board and on Saturday, the 13th, had the piano brought forward and gave a concert. Many of the sailors were ready with rough songs. Mubrinan, one of the passengers, sang “Pat Malone”, the audience joining in the chorus, which ran “then Pat Malone forgot that ‘e was dead.” Waystaff, the Yorkshireman who had served under Biabaut, gave several recitations; Beagley, a young fellow found in Sydney where he hoped to get a position as mechanical engineer sang “Fathre O’Flynn.” Lenerife busimen Exgins- Antonio Delgado Farmacia de V Cabrera Abogado y notaries Doctor en Medicina y Cirugia Deposito de Pintura La Bola de Oro Barberia de Accites y Barmices Juan Vidal Sastre Sasteria TailorTailleur Las Cuatro Naciones Sneider Thursday, Dec. 18. Saloon passengers got up a minstrel performance to which we were invited. The songs were nearly all American- in fact I have been surprised more than once at the popularity of American songs and tunes one hears them hummed and whistled everywhere- Sunday, Dec. 14- Took pictures of the stewards crew in group. I had already taken one of Captain Tiger, the Captain’s Boy. He is a bright little fellow. He told us his story. He left home because he was not wanted- his mother had died and a step mother was in her place. he walked seventy miles to London and shipped on board the Aberdeen. We were talking one evening when Mr. White remarked that he would like to see Cape Town. Tiger said he would like to see his mother. He is a good character for a story. Ryall is also capital material for a story of the Johannesburg mines. His tale of how they buried the Cape Town engineer would make a splendid story. Dec. 20. Learned there were two Greeks on board and I at once made their acquaintance and began to exchange classical Greek for their modern idiom. We were soon able to understand each other quite well. One was well educated and conversant with the ancient parts and the stories of the Iliad and Odyssey. Both were studying English diligently out of phrase books in which English phrases were rendered in Greek characters. There could not have been a more cosmopolitan crowd than the third class passengers of the “Aberdeen”. Three were Americans- only one, myself, however, native born. There were four or five Scotchmen whom it was almost impossible to under-stand. I told them either to speak English or hire an interpreter. Ryall was an Englishman, naturalized, however, on African soil. Finnigan was a North of Ireland man. He struck me as having all the earmarks of an English such. His father was a barrish he had been educated for medicine at Dublin, but failed to complete his course-for the reason, I believe, that he was addicted to drink. I never saw a man drink whiskey and soda, or brandy and soda with greater aridly. Wagstaff was a Yorksireman, had served in the yeoman-ry, was discharged went home, called back to Africa and enlisted again in a colonial corps. A great many soldiers did the same for the reason that in the latter  the former they received only 1/3. Wagstaff discovered the war as a “peecnic on a large scale” and he wished ‘twas on again tomorrow.” He lands in ”For I’ve took a notion to cross the  ocean And I’m going to Philadelphia in the morning.” Beagley “For I’m a plumber A handy man in winter and in summer”-Mulrenan Now Pat Malone foist that ‘e was dead S. Africa at the beginning of the year with 5/6 in his pocket. On from 3 he was discharged and went home with £380. Another soldier we knew as “New Zealand Time.” He had served in the New Zealand contingent. Of the Jews, one had been a lieutenant in the Russian army. he was from Philadelphia, and unhappily, the free air of America had reacted badly on his constitution. He was unendurably insolent. I could not but admire the courtesy, justice and fair play which the English men accorded the Jews. I believe the boast of Englishmen is well founded. That where the Union Jack floats all are treated alike. Wagstaff, however, in his joking way complained that Englishmen had fought like the devil to win South Africa, and now it as being set-tled by these foreigners who would derive most of the good of the country. Wagstaff had a grim humour which was very amusing. He said the “Scotch, they came an’ conquered th’ country, an’ wen th’ English found ‘twas good they came an’ took it awa’ fro’ them, and then they trekked into the country an’ found gooned, an’ then th’ English took that fro’ them, an’ now if they anywere ailse and  anything gude th’ English ‘ll get that fro’ them.” He had been employed during most of the war in bringing in cattle, on which he got a percentage- some cattle he confessed to having sold surreptitiously himself. Of course men ran a great risk in doing this. They were liable to two years on the Cape Town breakwater if discovered. Two were Greeks from the Island of Zante, aced two were Italians. The Jews were nearly all from Russia on Germany. Christmas Eve- Dec. 24- 1902. S.S. Aberdeen spent the evening with Brickwell in decorating the dining cabin with  preparatory to Christmas. Unfortunately here as no American flag on board. Christmas. Dec. 25. The day was bright, tho there was a heavy swell on which made the ship toss considerably. Heavy  dashed over the bows occasionally. We had arranged everything so that the white passengers could all assemble in the cabin on the port side which we had . At the last moment the Philadelphia jew persuaded his compatriots to take their usual places. This caused some confusion. Ryall went to one of the Jewish women who could talk English to ask an explanation. Wagstaff, however, simply asked the Jews to “shift, or we’ll shift ye.” The result was they all retired. But meanwhile Whyte, one of the passengers, had made up his mind not to sit with us. Consequently the Jews had to be invited back again to fill up the tables. The dinner was a failure Instead of the good cheer and yarns which we had anticipated we sat and swallowed our chagrin in silence. Wagstaff informed me that Cape Town was so hot that the farmers fed their chickens ice to brevent them laying boiled eggs. Ryall amused us one evening of a vivid account of how he had cone dynamite fishing with his little dog, a scotch terrier. The dynamite sticks were thrown into the river. The dog on one occasion ran in and rescued the dynamite and ran after his master, who of course made every effort to get away, the dog following in high glee. The cap exploded, the dynamite exploded, and the dog exploded, and Ryall says he was splashed with blood, but otherwise came off unharmed from what aught have been a very serious misunderstanding. Dec. 26- 1902. The Aberdeen rolled  bravely than at any time during the trip. Robin’s Island and Table Mountain were sighted early in the morning. Everyone bustled about getting his baggage ready for shore. A tender came alongside with four happy-go-lucky niggers to look after unloading the baggage. They began their days work by passing a whisky bottle around and each taking a swig. They started to work and immediately dropped a trunk overboard. It belonged to New Zealand Tim. It was fished out, but in the effort one of the niggers dropped his cap overboard. This had to be fished out before matters could proceed further, and then they all had another drink around, and one of the niggers in a fit of playfulness stuck his jack knife in his comrades’ neck. They were evidently ready for any diversion except work. I began to understand what a serious matter the labor problem was for the colony. Ryall says there is no earthly use in treating a nigger well- “give them twenty lashes with the sjambock very Monday morning, regularly, just to inspire the fear of God in them- There’s no living with them unless you do.” Finally all the baggage was aboard It was a capitalists war in which racial differences were skillfully employed to serve the purposes of the owners of the Rand, It was a capitalist’s war; racial difference by artificial means and paid agitation were accentuated and exaggerated until the two races were arrayed against each other. The war was precipitated and the end of the capitalists accomplished. Dutch and English will combine against the capitalists of Johannes-burg who threaten to flood the S.A. with Asiatic labor and twin the sub continent into a yellow man’s country. The line of cleavage will no longer be racial, but economic. The line of cleavage will no longer be racial, but economic, the middle class of Dutch and English will combine against the capitalists of Johannesburg who threaten to flood the country with Asiatic labor and then make it unfit for the habitation of white people. Already white men’s leagues, numbering in their membership both Dutch and British have been formed all over The Trans. The readiness with which the issues of the war have been forgotten goes to prove where community of interest lie and the artificial nature of the issues of the late war. Where true community of interests are to be formed and the artificial character of the issues which precipitated the war. At the same time it goes to demonstrate the artificial character of the issues which precipitated the war. The agitation in Johannesburg was carefully rehearsed; protagonists and chores alike received their pay. Now that the play is over and the actors have been discharged they are calling loudly for their  and wishing themselves back in the halcyon days before the war. The leader, I kissed the stewardess goodbye, and we pushed off amid cheers and waving handkerchiefs. The tender gave three shrill whistles, the Aberdeen responded in stentorian tones, and our voyage and associations were over. At the customs house we had to give our names and occupations. A Tommy at the entrance was explaining this fact to the line of passengers. A Jew asked for further explanations. “Just give your name and business- you don’t need to give your nationality- we know that:” A Jew came up to the Inspector, gave his name and nationality. “What’s your occupation?” “My vat?” “What’s your occupuation- what do you do- your business?” Vat do I do? My bisness- bisness- I do bisness.” “Peddler- next” the Inspector said to himself as he made the entry. Ryall, Wilshin (Texas) and myself drove up to the Royal Hotel. Finnigan had already gone up and installed himself in a room. Eight of us sat down to lunch together - Finnigan, Ryall, “N.Z. Tim”, “Texas,” “Scottie” (Hastie), Wagstaff, Beagley and myself. Will that crowd ever be together again? The Lord only knows. Brickwell came in while we were eating and said goodbye. I was very sorry to say farewell to him- he is an excellent fellow and had been a fine travelling com-panion. Friday- the day we landed- happened to be “boxing day,” as the English call it, and consequently we could do nothing but walk thru the silent struts and see the sights. Finnigan knew Cape Town well- he had been in-valided there during the war. We went up to Nelson Hill, the Parliament buildings, the public gardens and the Library. Finnigan, however, punctuated his steps with glasses of brandy and soda. In the evening we heard the band in the garden, where my old weakness overtook me and I fell asleep. Dec. 27- Called at the Post Office, the African Banking Corporation and the steamship offices. In the afternoon I called on Rev. Ezra Nutall, as the Wesleyan Parsonage, Rdorf St. I had a very interesting talk with him. He had been one of the vigilance committee during the war, having been a member of the original committee of twelve which was afterwards increased to sixty. He did not h tek to say that there was a widespread conspiracy among the Dutch which had for its object placing South Africa under Dutch leadership. Mr. Hofmeyer lived next door to him. He is leader of the Africander Bond, and the man with whom C.J. Rhodes allied himself in order to capture the premiership. Astuteness and secrecy Mr. Nutall said were characteristics of the Dutch- Englishmen could not help admiring the way in which the conspiracy had been organizing for years while the leading men in England refused to be-lieve there was any such thing. In the evening Ryall off for stellenbeach and Finnigan and I went to the Theatre where we saw the opera “Dorothy.” Finnigan insisted on drinking between acts. By the time the play was over he was fairly in, and I had to lead him home. To help him work off the effects I sat on the stoop with him, when he suddenly hailed a cabbie, and nothing would do but we had to drive to Crow St. then to Leigh St., Barrack St. and Broom St. It was one o’clock before we returned and he could be induced to go to bed. He insisted, however, on “just another smile.” Cape Town, Sunday, Dec. 28. Took a long walk in the morning out past the castle, riding back on the street cars and out on the Sea Point Road. Spent the afternoon in writing until 4 o’clock when Finnigan proposed that we go out to Sea Point. Had a beautiful street car ride and walk along the sea shore. The villas look out over the sea, and seem to suggest a beautiful life. Ryall spent the day chasing from Stellenbeach to Green Point in search of his brother. He broached the scheme of the trip to Uganda, I to accompany the expedition in the capacity of reporter and photographer. Cape Town. Dec. 29. Spent the morning writing. In the afternoon I called at the Bank and at the Telegraph offices to see whether any cables had arrived for me. After careful search I concluded that none had been out. The evening I spent at Rev. Ezra Nutall’s. He introduced me to his wife, son and two daughters and to a Mr. Malley, an entymologist. He comes from the Iowa Agricultural College and is engaged in what he calls the Economics of Entymology- that is, a branch of agriculture which has to do with the influence of insects; beneficial or otherwise, on crops. He was interested in discovering how different insects reacted upon each other, and in importing such insects as would destroy others that are harmful. He informed me, or I understood him to say that their branch was not taught in English schools. The head of the department was also an American from Boston. He advised me to visit the Cape Orchard Co. at Hex River. The government of Cape Colony has an agricultural School. In his opinion, the greater part of the Karroo could be rendered fertile by irrigation. The land, unfortunately, is in the hands of unprogressive Boers. Young Mr. Nutall told me about Bishop Turner, a negro, who started the Ethiopian movement; which is partly religious and partly political in character. He was exposed by Bishop Harsell and obliged to leave the country. Coppin is now in charge of the movement; and Peregrino is editor of their organ. Rev Ezra Nutall decried the idea which Ryall had been instilling into me that a nigger must have a licking regularly every Monday morning. He thought they should be treated with absolute picture. Cape Town- Dec. 30. Spent a good part of the day with Ryall who was trying to engineer his scheme of going up to Uganda to get natives- I was to go with him in the capacity of photographer. I doubt, however that anything will come of it. I visited the docks early in the morning and took a few snapshots. On the way back I met Malley, who was opening big chests of English trees and shrubs which were going up to Pretoria. He was inspecting the plants for scales. In case any were discovered it became necessary to disinfect the plants in some gas having similar poisoning qualities to Potassium Cyanide. I do not recall the name he gave the composition (Hydrocyanie Acid Gas) In the afternoon I called on Charles P. Lounsbury, entymologist for the , at the agricultural department headquarters. He was very kind in giving me a great deal of in-formation regarding his work. He showed me the different spices of scales, and described their operation. In the first stage of their development they move about. Later they attach themselves to the surface of the leaf, exude some liquid which covers their bodies, and they become stationary. They puree the surface of the leaf, and draw out the sap. Other varieties poison the sap the leaf shows a reddish mark where it has been bitter. Others still simply cover the plant exude some liquid which asphyxiates it. He then described his investigations with ticks. In cattle red-water was caused by there parasites. They also attack dogs causing a kind of fever. The development of the disease, as I understood, was something like this- the tick carried from an unhealthy animal an animal parasite which, when the tick attacked the healthy animal catered the blood and fed on the red corpuscles in the blood. Sometimes infection (?) does not come at once- the tick gets its fill, and drops off. After lying dormant a month or so he has another feed and drops off again. It may not be until this third stage that the infection takes place. It is a curious fact that young cattle may be stabled with the old diseased cattle, and yet they do not take the disease. In point of fact; they do contract it, but in a very mild form and they become immune. Texas cattle are immune in this way, and wild animals, from which domesticated animal like it, also. But there is another curious fact. Cattle that are not immune catch the disease from immune animals, and while at the first the latter did not suffer, they will now in turn catch it from the animals which took it from them. Mr. Lous-bury explained this fact by saying that the parasite gained a greater  by attacking the defenseless beasts, and this greater virulence to immune animals could not withstand. Yellow River and malarid are similar in their nature- here the animal parasites are spread by mosquitos. Spent the evening in the Public Library reading Kruger’s memoirs. Transcribed article on Knerife and wrote letters. Cape Town- Dec. 31. Spent a good part of the day in looking for rooms- also in humoring Ryall- Finnigan, with true English snobbishness, did me the honor of borrowing a pound. The evening I spent at Mr. Lounsbury’s home, Oapington House, 3 Station road, Newbray- Had a long talk with him in regard to So. African affairs. He thought that it would be years before the country could compete with the U.S. we had good land and plenty of water; so Africa had the land, but had no water and could not get any. There is no range of hills or mountains, like the Rockies, which would serve to collect humidity. It would be long before So. Africa could become a great country as a result of the war and the pest had demanded of cattle and sheep. Thousands of head of sheep and cattle had been destroyed in the war as a -sary war measure. The result was that new cattle had to be imported, acclimatized and bed. Great care, too, had to be taken in this restocking lest diseases be introduced with the animals. Many were being imported from Argentina, Texas and Australia. The natives, Mr. Lounsbury thought; had too much freedom- they should be handled as children- they should be taught to regard the white people as their superiors. He decried equal privileges for them with white men. The suspension of the sale of intoxicants during the war had been a good measure, and should have been continued. He told me that up in the Trans- the  of feeling in favor of the nature had gone so far that a native
Repository: UTOPIA: The University of Toledo Open Institutional Archive
A transcribed journal written by Gustavus Ohlinger detailing his travels across Africa and Asia. ; could have his master summoned for using a moderate swear word in upbraiding him. Cape Town- Jan. 1- 1903 I arrived in Cape Town from Mowhay with Malloy. Unfortunately it was after midnight and the lodging house where I had partially engaged lodgings was closed. I did not want to go back to the Royal. I wandered around the streets for a while trying to get into a hotel, but the people either did not care to be bothered, or they had all room taken. My only recourse was to go to an all night restaurant- Kept by a lurk. He had a pronuscious lodging house where I could have a bed for 21-. Rather than get into the un-inviting all night. At five in the morning I took a wealth around town. The Niggers had a good time all night, swinging and parading the streets. White people also had a good time. Many walked  the following morning. Cape Town- Jan. 2- 1903 Went to the Custom House and got my telescope. Also took pictures of the immigrants. In the afternoon I met Mr. Lounsbury in Mowbray and we had a bicycle ride out to Maitland, the nigger location. The road led by the government forest. The Cape Colony Government spends more on its foresting department than the United States. The forest was planted in rows. The trees were principally pines from Southern Europe and California. Many tress, such as the gums and the varieties of acacia are introduced from Australia. The flora of the two continents are similar. We passed an abandoned block house, rode thru the plaque contact settlement, the plaque settlement and finally arrived at the nigger locations. The niggers come from the Eastern part of the colony for the most part. They are housed here in  like huts of corrugated iron. The hut has two slanting sides, which also form the roof, and in one cud is a window and in the other a door. About 3,000 niggers are kept here. The location is under government control. Formerly the blacks were allowed to live in Cape Town, with the result that they very seriously  the then district; which is just south of the earth. Mr. Lonusbury told me the natures are shockingly immoral. The whole camp is fenced in with barbed wire. Right near the camp are some vestiges of the war in the shape of immense piles of fodder. The government railway in this quarter has just sized an immense quantity of land. We called on a Mr. Kuaggo and had some tea. Right opposite his house are the dwellings which the government is putting up for working men. I was told that the railway management was shockingly in-sufficient and that the dwellings had been built in a careless way, necessitating a far greater expenditure than necessary. There is still some home for the United States. The wind was so strong that we could not return, so we rode on to Cape Town. We had lunch and then Mr. Lounsbury invited me out to Mowbray to spend the evening looking over photographs. We stopped on the way at the sheds to see how his annual patients were getting along. He is conducting a series of experiments on red-water. The Kapi farm laborers, he informed me, get 10 s. a month and their ford, which consists of mealies. But besides this they have a good many privileges. They are given cattle by the farmer, and are allowed to pasture it upon his ranch. Around Grahamstown the farmers have little respect for the British officer. Their persistence in following their ignorant notions cost several disasters. The Boers were not slow to take ad-vantage of this. Cape Town- Jan 3- 1903. Malley and spent the day in climbing Table Mountain. We started from the Agricultural Department at about 11 a.m. He provided a lunch of sandwiches, lemonade and fruit, I took my camera, and we boarded the car at Kloof street and rode up the steep incline which leads up into the neck between the mountain and Lion’s Head. We went quite a distance on the other side until we were opposite Camp’s Bay and then we left the car and began the climb. At a little spring a short way from the car track we had our lunch. After this we had a long, steep rough climb to the summit. The peaks known as the Twelve Apostles live Table Mountain on this side. We arrived on top pist where the aerial cable lands. A man was painting the cable, sliding down in a trapeze. On top we found a lot of naked Kafir boys washing. After stopping at the reservoir a short time for a drink we continued our climb up a beautiful gorge to one of the peaks. The top of the Table Mt. forms a natural basin, and by means of damning, splendid reservoirs are formed. The water supply comes entirely from the streamlets which wash down the sides. The water has a coffee color, owing to the presence of the heath and other mountain , but this does not hurt the quality of the water. It is perfectly healthy. While the hills are barren of trees, the Kloops or gorges are thickly wooded with natural timber. The forestry department has a large reserve on the summit. Arrived on the summit we had a beautiful panoramic view of the fertile valley which extends from Cape Town to the Cape. The land is laid off in squares, clothed in different shades of green. It present-ed a patchwork of beautiful colors. On the slopes of the mountain are the reserves of the forestry department. Beyond the fields is a stretch of sand, and beyond that are the farms of the mainland with the mountains rising in the distance. We then crossed to the other side of Devil’s Peak and Cape Town and Table Bay lay spread before us. The front of the mountain falls away very precipitously. There is only only place, known as the Gorge, or the Kloof where you can descend. The descent was long and tiresome. As we came to the slopes the lights of the town and of the Bay began to twinkle. We had a drink of fine ice cold water at a little spring, and then continued our trip until we came to a cobble-paved road. Malley told me this road had been built hundreds of years ago, and led up to the remains of a fortress on the slope of the mountain. Nothing is known of the fortress or of it’s owner. Cape Town- Jan. 4- Met Malley in the morning and we went together to the old Dutch Church. The pews are enclosed and are entered thru a door. They are uncomfortable in the extreme. I could make out from the sermon that it concerned the peace which passeth understanding.” The audience consisted of plain working people, something like our German congregations at home. There were no niggers in the audience. Next we proceed to the Cathedral, the place of worship for the Church of England. There was a mixed audience- the back seats were occupied by niggers- and many of the audience appeared to be transients. We listened to a characteristically inane sermon on the text “Behold I make all things new.” Our next stop was at the Catholic church. This was thronged by sinners of all nationalities and colors. Truly the Catholic Church is universal. It’s strength seems to lie in the very fact that all its For a short time they had known the peace that passeth understanding communicants are kept in equal ignorance. The mass was chanted in Latin, just as it is in every land of the globe. The same ceremonies were performed. All partook of the same feeling of cast- off responsibilities. The Catholic church is the great burden bearer of man-kind. It quells all doubts and unrest by not allowing its members the restlessness of thought and doubt- the thinking is all done for them. It is theirs to accept and believe, not to question. Some of the inscriptions on the walls were interesting: “sacred to the memory of Patrick Flynn. This tablet records his pious hope that where he worshipped while living, after death he may find intercessors: R.I.P.” Another:”Pray for the estate of Patrick O’Reilly.” After the service a motley throng of soldiers wearing khaki, officers in black, women with painted faces, looking for all the world like prostitutes, ladies in silks, swarthy Italians, humble negroes swarmed to the font of holy water and crossed themselves with pious mean and went on their way again. For a short time they had been out of the world- now they were returning to its sin and poverty for another week. In the afternoon I had tea at Nutalls and went to the Metropalitan Wesleyan Church with them and heard a sermon by Mr. Nutell. Cape Town- Jan. - 1902. Called on Mr. Lounsbury- He urged me very strongly not to  going to Serious town where the Imperial Government is establishing a naval station. They are putting up dry docks there. The sand-stone for these has to be brought from England, alltho there is a plentiful supply to top of Table Mountain. It is cheaper to ship the stone from England, a distance of Seven thou-sand miles, than it is to get it from Table Mountain, thirty-five miles away. From the office I went to the American Consulate and met Colonel Bigham, the Consul. General. he told me that in his opinion five thousand Americans fought for the British in the war. Most of these men came over as muleteers from New Orleans. 207,000 mules were shipped to South Africa. With every twenty mules came a muleteer, making over 10,000 men that came in this way. After the war there was some deficiency about getting the men home. The British general, Sir H. Settle, said he had no authority to send them home now to maintain them here. Colonel Bigham Mr. Lounsbury introduced me to Dr. Hutchin, the government veterinarian. All cattle are claimed in C. T. before being allowed to go up country. The Cape  gets a good deal of abuse and no thanks for his service. At present Argentine cattle, shut horns are being imported to stock the farms in  R.C. and . said three hundred registered at his office in one day. he made representations to Sir H. Settle to no effect, and finally telegraphed to the war department in England. Orders were issued to feed the men until they embarked . In less than two weeks all were on their way home. At the consulate I happened to meet a Mrs. Davis whose husband is putting up refrigerating machinery for the de Berrs Explosives Co. at Somerset West. She told me of the Columbia Restaurant; run by a genuine Yankee, where we could get a piece of genuine Yankee pie. Here Malley and I went, meeting a Mr. Plumb, who is connected with Mr. Peck &Sons. After lunch Malley and I went out to Wynberg to visit the Wine Farm. It was a delightful bicycle trip, over hard roads, shaded by pines, Eucalyptus, English Oak and Acacia. There are about 200 acres in the farm. It is run by the  for the instruction of the farmers in the art of wine making, the Wollheim informed me the farmers did not take opportunity to profit by this model. It is run by two gentlemen, Wollheim and Jagger. Wollheim had jus re-turned from a trip to Europe where he had been inspecting the methods of wine making. S. Africa, he said was an incomparably better country for wine than the Rhine Valley. Only the farmers must be educated in the proper methods. The S. African vine is a European vine grafted on a Californian. All European vines succumbed to the phylloxia, which attacked the roots and leaves. For some reason the Californian vine was able to resist this insect pest. Malley inspected the results of spraying experiments on some scales. There are a number of orange and lemon trees in the orchard. Some years ago all the orchards were eaten up by the Australian bug. The entomologists got to work and imported the vedalia from California, an insect which is the natural enemy of the bug, and the result was that it effectually cleared the country of these pests. On the way back we rode thru Newlands Avenue, a beautiful drive, bordered by great estates. We stopped at the Foresters Arms Holie, and had some tea, and then went to Cecil Rhodes home at Rondebosch. We went be-hind the house, up to the lion’s dens. There were two splendid specimens here, a male and female. We had a splendid view from this point of the Drackenstein Mts, Sir Lowrey’s Pass, and Hong Klip. Before us lay rich villas in beautiful artificial roves of pine, English oak, and other  trees. Table Mountain was observed by a heavy, ominous cloud, driven over it by a Southeaster. It began to sprinkle and we got on our wheels to return. My ideas of Cecil Rhodes have changed materially since visiting South Africa. He was a man of great ideals, and to the accomplishment of these he de-voted himself, regardless of means. The greatness of his ideas in a way atones for the moral iniquity of his actions. Cape Town, Jan. 6- Spent the morning dawdling about trying to develop some films. Started to work at Lemon’s, and the water gave out. Was never so disgusted in my life. Finally sent them all to the Process Dept. of the Cape Time’s. Called on Mr. Plumb, who introduced me to Mr. W. Burnes, manager for W. Peck & Sous. He was disgusted with the country, as are all Americans who have to stay here. He said people at home had an altogether too exalted an idea of the commercial possibilities of the Cape and S. Africa. The people are low and conservative, unwilling to take on American goods. The government is in too many enterprises, and it is in-efficient. Ships have to wait in the harbor for months for a chance to unload. There are not sufficient dock accommodations, and as the government, thru the Table Bay Harbor Board controls the situation, nothing can be done. The railroad is in the hands of the gov’t, and the charges are high and the service poor. There are not more than two million whites in S. Africa. Where is the chance for trade? The niggers are the best customers. They buy a lot of blankets and cottons. There is no possibility of great commercial development in S. Africa. As a grain country it can never compete with the U. S. or Argentina. Just now it is importing food stuffs from Australia, and Australia in  imports it from the U.S. Johannesburg is the largest city in S. Africa with a population of about a hundred thousand. Most of the prominent men there are Americans. Mr. Bivins expressed himself as greatly dissatisfied with the  system of the U.S. Instead of getting trained men into the service, they hire politicians from Kansas or Nebraska who have no conception whatever of the duties of the office. Then they are inadequately paid. The Consul General in C. T. receives £600, and out of that has to pay his passage money. The German consul receives £2000 and an allowance to keep up the dignity of his office. The French Consul gets £1000. Yet not one of these nations has the trade interests which the U.S. possesses. An American, Wilson by name, engineered the Camps Bay Elec. Line. Milliken Bros., a New York firm, are putting up the two first structural steel buildings in Cape Town. They are building in genuine American sky scraper style, bricking in from top down. The floors and beams, however, are of Wood. Cape Town. Jan. 7- 1903. In the morning called on the Immigrant Inquiry Office. Was introduced to a Mr. H. Taylor, of the Land Settlement Office. He gave me a good deal of information in regard to farming. He had been in the country forty years, having landed here with £30. He was obliged to trek up country, as there were no railroads. He had prospered, and now had a fine estate, Nooitgrdacht, in the Transvaal. he showed me photographs of the reservoirs, stables and the homestead on his place. The British government has come into possession of some 2,861 farms of 6000 a. each which formed part of the assets of the S.A.R. It also has 383,000 morque of land in the O.R.C. This it is now settling. But besides all this, the government is constantly buying up new lands from un-progressive or careless farmers. It appears that every effort is being made to bring into the  River colony a good, prudent, thrifty farming element. Immigrants from all countries are accepted, only they give a preference to men who have fought in the war- to whatever nationality they belong. An intruding settler is given an application blank in which he answers questions as to his experience as a farmer, what particular line he has followed, and the capital. He applies for some particular piece of land which the government has advertised for sale. Possession may be gained in two ways: (1) by lease (2) by purchase on small payments extending over a period of 30 years. See the documents appended. If a farmer is ignorant of the country, Mr. Taylor endeavors to ascertain in what branches of farming he is experienced, and advises him to apply for land in some section where that specialty is followed. If he is a horse breeder, he is sent to N.E. part of group R.C.; if he is experienced in wheat raising, he is advised to go to E. part of O.R.C. If he knows something about tobacco culture or coffee, he goes to parts of the Transvaal. Mr. Taylor informed me that in the Eastern part of the Transvaal a company has been formed for raising Russian sun-flower, a kind of hemp. The fibre of this plant is used in paper making. The plant is also valuable as counteracting fever. The great draw back to the country is the high rate of railway tariffs. Wheat at Cape Town is worth 191/- per day of 3 ba.; in Johannesburg it costs 5/-. Spent the rest of the day in getting off letters for America. Cape Town Jan. 8. 1902. Had a busy day. Called on Mr. Lounsbury in the morning, where I met a Mr. McDermott. He advised me to go from Blaemfonteu to Kimberley by post road, and also to Harrismith, which is the rail head, by post road. “Jiggers” have come into S. Africa. They started on the west coast, worked across to the east; and are now coming down the sea coast. Called on Colonel Bigham, the American Consul- General. He gave me letters of introduction to two lawyers in C.T. Had a long talk with regard to the U.S. consular service. He said he was being paid $3000 a year; it cost him $843 to get to C.T.; His board and tram fare cost $2000. American trade with S. Africa mounts up to 8 million dollars per anum. He has one assistant, no paid $1200- formerly he was paid $300. He has a stenographer, classified as a clerk, who gets $800- formerly the salary was $500. The work is heavy and voluminous. He had answered every letter of inquiry, which had consumed all his time, with the result that his own correspondence is neglected. The German consul gets $10,000. He has three paid vice consuls and eight clerks. He has house free- German trade amounts to about 3 millions per anum. The german consul drives about in his own carriage and pair, while colonel Bigham foots it, or takes the street car. The Argentine consul gets $1500 more than he does. My permit having been endorsed, I went to the Geneva Restaurant, cursed the proprietor, and left: Took up lodgings at the White House. Called again on Mr. Taylor in the after-noon. He presented me with a pamphlet dealing with South African Irrigating. Ser Alfred Milner is Governor of the Transvaal, Governor of the  River Colony, and High Commissioner for South Africa. The two governments of the Transvaal and O.R.C. maintain the Immigrants information and Permit Bureau at Cape Town. Mr. Taylor expressed himself as disgusted with American business methods- a great nation was keeping a consul at Cape Town on a salary of £600! Colonel Stowe he admired greatly; he gave expression to the motherly feeling of Englishmen and Americans. Col. Stowe had put the American sentiment for England in this way. They didn’t mind giving England a thrashing Dr. Hutchins was just leaving for the Transvaal could not get any information. Went to the Cape Times office, and met the Editor, Mr. Maitland N. Park. Had an interesting talk with him in the course of which I pointed out that our American railroads acted as pioneers; settlers and business followed them. He thought S. Africa sufficiently supplied with railroads: there were routes from P. Elizabeth, C.T., E. London, and in a short time there would be a railroad route from Durban, thru natal and O.R.C., to Niljaens Drift on the Transvaal frontier. Suedhaua Bay he thought was a splendid harbor, but there was not water there, the surrounding country was flat, and at present there was really no need for another port of entry. Legislation is necessary for the niggers; they must either be expelled from the country, or compelled to work five days in the week instead of only two or three, as is their natural inclination. He thought a heavy tax would have the desired effect. Farming methods were much out of date. He thought a number of progressive American farmers would do the country a lot of good. Willcocks, the engineer of the Assuan Dam in Egypt, had prepared a comprehensive scheme for irrigation in S. Africa; but Willcocks was no soil expert; and he showed his ignorance in his pamphlet, and as a result his entire place had been ridiculed by farmers, regardless of the splendid engineering features it contained. During the last session of the Cape Parliament a bill for irrigation purposes, entailing an expenditure of £143,000 was introduced. It gave rise to much , the Dutch representative claiming that the scheme was too great to be undertaken- They thought it would be better to give each farmer £100 and let him devise his own irrigation. The Cape railroads are torturous in the route they follow; when they were built every petty politician of any influence demanded that it pass by his farm. These curves are gradually being straightened out. Cape Town- Jan- 9. Had a long talk with W. Barns. He expressed himself as greatly disgusted with American business men. They knew so much that you could not tell them more. He instanced his experience with table knives. None of these can be sold in South Africa unless they have square handles. He wrote a firm telling them that they could not sell their round bone handles in South Africa. They replied that they had been in the habit of selling them in the states and there was no reason why they should not sell in S. Africa. They either could not, or would not appreciate conditions in this country. Credit business with C.T. merchants is on a good basis. They always pay on, 30, 60 or 90 days sight. But they in turn have to wait six months for customers. Their customers consider six months cash, and demand 5% discount. There is no reliable mercantile agency in the country.  has just started. A man has to rely a good deal upon his own shrewdness in his dealings. The retail merchants mad 100% or 200% on their capital. He was accustomed to sell American clocks to them for 16/-. He afterwards saw those same clocks advertised in their windows for £4. 4. 0. I took several pictures of his stock. He had a miscellaneous collection of general manufactures. These included soaps, hair brushes, cutlery, knives, toys, canned provisions, sausage grinders, , playing cards, tennis rackets, shirts and sweaters for the native trade, slacks, etc. He carried the whole show about with him when he travelled. Mr. Burns is highly disgusted with the cape railways. The Cape Government is adopting a policy of high tariffs to the interior, in the hope of keeping down the O.R.C. and the Transvaal. But they are cutting off their own heads, for trade is going in thru P. Elizabeth, E. London and Durban. The Johannesburg merchants will have nothing to do with Cape Town. The railroads are congested with traffic, but no steps are taken to secure further accommodations. The railroad management say they have accommodations to carry all that the docks can discharge; the Harbor Boards say they can discharge all that the railways can carry. Mr. Burns sent one shipment for Johannesburg from C.T. on Nov. 1. It reached its destination Dec. 22. The government has been setting off the  and  collected during the war. These supplies are brought up by Jews and then  to the Repatriation Board, or the land settlement Office.Cape Town. Jan. 10- 1903- I spent the morning between Mr. H. Taylor, at the Enquiry Office, to who I read my notes, Mr. Brown of the Forestry Dep’t, and the native commissioners. Mr. Brown gave me the following information in regard to his department: Appropriation for Cape Colony forestry, £56,000. Acreage of Forests:- Wauskei 82,000 Eastern 168,000 Kuysna 90,000 Western 106,000 448,175 Wauskeian forests not in 40,000 reserves Private 30,000 518,175 The work of the four divisions was kept distinct. The principal trees planted are Eucalyptic, blackwood and Wattle from Australia, American pines and cypress, Southern European pines and English Oak The trees are raised from the seed which is brought in and planted. The forests suffer greatly from fires. I noticed several of these fires while in Cape Town. Railway sleepers are very expensive- 5/6 a piece, and most of the wood they get is used on the government railways. The native commissioner gave me some facts in regard to native administration. The Glen Grey Act applies only to that district. The natives of the Transkei continue to live under their own law, but when they see fit, Colony laws are extended to the district by proclamation. The district is practically under total prohibition. He thought the solution of the native problem lay in educating the negro to the wants of our civilizations. He would then of his own accord get to work to supply those wants. Got things ready in the afternoon, and at 9:00 p.m. left for Johannesburg. Mally came to the station to see me off. Just as I passed thru the gate Wagstaff and Bright caught me by the arm and bade me goodbye. En route Cape Town – Johannesburg. Found my fellow passengers congenial. One was a Jew from London, Salamon by name. An Australian, Monk by name, was going up to J-burg to work. Powell was found in Pretoria and was going into farming with his brother. He had been in the South African Constabulary. I was so tapped out that I did not stay up to see the famous Hex River Valley. We passed it during the night. All the next day our road wound over the Karrov, a parched, arid plain broken by sum braten Kopps. At long intervals there would be a small farm house it’s terra cotta walls throwing back the undiminished fierceness of the African sun. All along the side of the road stood the block houses and the barbed wire entanglements which had played such a part in the war. I spent the day writing articles and printing pictures. It was fearfully hot in our compartment and several turns my head swam so that I was obliged to stop. Early on the following morning, Jan. 12, we arrived at Colesberg, and shortly afterwards we came in sight of the Orange River and Norval’s Port. From now on the country had a less forbidding aspect. There were small sprints, green trees, usually surrounding some farm house, and stretches of green pasture. At spring fonteni we passed a great refugee camp, the white tents dotting the slope. Bloemfonteiu is approached over a broad expanding plain. It was thru this plain that Lord Roberts directed his planking movement. The Boers expected him from the West-Gusliad, he came from the South, passed thru the Boer lines at Ferreira Sedwig, and marched into Bloemfonteiu. A Boer, M. Brewis by name came into our compartment and we had quite a talk. I tried to get him to write his name in Dewet’s book, but he refused. He said he would not trust anybody. He had been betrayed by his fellow Boers. He was one of Dewet’s commando- had been an express-man for him. When I showed him Dewet’s picture he gave an exclamation of “Ja, Ja” with a look of pried and affection which even his native shrewdness did not succeed in concealing. He told us Dewet carried nothing with him throughout the war but a sjambok. On one occasion when he was surrounded by the English Dewet had literally driven his men thru their lives with his whip. Delvet, he told us, seemed to have an omniscience and a prescience- he seemed to know just what was going to happen. It was miraculous- he could not explain it; He had had a farm of Snikal, but he was now working as a blacksmith at Edinburg. He was on his way to Bevem-fonleui to find laborers to help him. As it happened, Powell had been shot in the leg not far from Norval’s Port. Brewis admitted that he had been one of the party which attacked the train on that occasion. There were several Boers travelling third class on the train. In the evening I went out on the platform to view the country. It was beautiful. There had been a heavy thunder shown in the afternoon which had cleared and cooled the atmosphere. The sun set in a blaze of red. For miles in the twilight the broad expanse of the Free State lay before us. Two Boers sat on the floor of the car platform ahead of us. Not a word was exchanged between them. There they sat; silent and moody, their hats pulled over their eyes, puffing thoughtfully at their pipes. Occasionally they cast a wistful glance over the -ing landscape. For two hours I watched the scenery, but I never heard them exchange a word. At about 9 o’clock Monk and Powell and Salomon came out on the platform and began to sing- “just  th’ news to mother-a,” “Dolly Grey,” “Strike says I,” and a lot of other rubbish. The Boers never seemed to notice it. Johannesburg. Jan. 13. Arrive at the Park Station at 7:30 am. We passed our goods thru the customs, I having to pay 3/- for the camera. We then hunted up a restaurant and a barber shop. I was delighted, after three months, to find myself in an American barber chair. This noble institution was kept at the Melbourne shaving Parlors. Johannesburg struck me as a good deal of an Americanized town. There are tall office building, like the Exploration, built on modern plans and provided with elevators. On the streets you pass between shoe stores, bicycle stores, and candy shops. At one place I had a drink of American ice cream soda for 1/-. On the market place you see advertised American cool drinks. In the hotels you register, writing your own name, just as you do at home. After an unsuccessful search for a room, I took a room at the Goldfields Hotel which Burns had recommended to me. The afternoon I spent trying to find some people. But nobody here appears to take any care of his address. They all have post office boxes. The American consul, Mr. Evidon, had moved a short time before from the Aegis Bldg to the Primrose, but I could not find him. At about 3 p.m. I heard a few shorts and saw some mounted men riding down the street. I was told it was Mr. Chamberlain, on his way to the chamber of mines. Tho it was raining at the time I immediately got my camera and waited patiently in front of the Chamber for him to emerge. We could hear considerable applause from the floor above where he was giving a speech to the nine . Finally he came out, and I got a good snap. He is a short, spare man, entirely unprepossessing in appearance. He was dressed in gray- In the evening I visited the Public Library and became acquainted with the “British and South African Export Review.” It is interesting, in view of the supposed cordial relations existing between the United States and England, to read the savage attacks English trade papers make upon our commerce, and their undisguised exultation whenever an American has lost in a trade matter. However, the “Review” is a good publication on the subject of African trade. There were several pungent editorials, calling T.R. Price. Manager of the C.G.R to order for allowing contracts for materials to go to Americans. Johannesburg. Jan. 14- 1902. I succeeded finally in locating Mr. Gordon in the Primrose Bldg., and had a long talk with him. He is disgusted with the country, the British administration and the business outlook. He would advise anyone to come here. As many people, almost, are leaving as are arriving. The labor problem he thought simply an excuse which the mines had adopted in order to obscure the true condition of things. They had promised such a great revival of business at the conclusion of the war, and now were unable to fill the bill and were blaming their mobility upon the blacks. They could start J.burg police commissioner brought from  up immediately if they wished to pay a fair way. The war was, in fact, a capitalists war, brought on because the mine owners thought there would be larger profits for them under British administration; the franchise was simply blind. The Dutch government had been the freest government in the world. Johannesburg before the war was a poor man’s paradise; wages were one pound a day. The only trouble with the Dutch officials was that they were too cheap; they allowed themselves to be bought for a span of oxen, while British statesman required thousands of pounds. There is plenty of corruption in the English administration, only the papers did not expose it; there was not the publicity about public affairs that there is in our country. Mr. Gordon had not yet received an  from the British administration; he was still proceeding under one granted by some Paul. The government had offered American officials no facilities whatever. There is a good deal of complaint against Lord Milner for bringing outgoing fellows from England to fill important positions here. They are totally unacquainted with the country and its conditions. This is causing Johannesburg- Jan. 14. In the evening went to the Grand National where an auto  mating was being held. The speakers were decidedly pronounced in their opposition to the Chinese. Several times I heard the shout- “Give us the Dutch back. much discontent among the colonials as well as the Boers. Mr. Gordon was of the opinion that the trouble was not yet over; the Boers do not own themselves beaten. The whole question will come to war again, only the next time the colonials will join hands with the Dutch. He had a very small opinion of Lord Roberts; as I had heard from Englishman, Mr. Gordon characterized the Field Marshall as an old woman, with no determination in his make up. He had, however, a high regard for Kitcheuer. Robert left before the war was over- the hardest part came after his departure- and went home for political effect. Hired a rickshaw in the afternoon and had a beautiful ride out to Sunnysid, Lord , residence, where Chamberlain is staying. The road was lined with carriages, carrying the beauty (?) and wealth of Johannesburg to the garden party. Took several pictures of the grounds.Johannesburg- Jan. 15. Called on the Nature Commissioner in the morning. He told me a good deal about the administration of native affairs. The country is divided into districts, each with its white commissioner. He exercises a good many functions. He acts as judge in cases arising between natives in their locations, and also in dispute between various tribes. In the cities the legal department has charge of native justice. The resident commissioner also collects the hut tax. No native is allowed to leave his location or his abode without a pass. There is also a native police force. I saw several of native constables. He informed me that labor contracts are enforced specifically- when a native contracts to work for a certain time, he is compelled to work the time out. In the afternoon I went thru Fordsburg and visited the Robinson mine. Ford-burg is certainly overrun with Malays and Chinese. It is a most dirty quarter. The children run about in the streets naked and the shops are filthy- breeding place for all manner of  diseases. The Robinson is known as the richest proposition on the Rand. It is an outcrop mine. We went down the shaft to a depth of some 1200 feet and then followed the galleries. The vein of  rock is very thin. A lot of tunneling how to be dine to get at it: But it assays 16 to the ton. we were shown the processer, the quicksilver, then the cyanide and the burning. The free gold is all removed by the quicksilver process. After that the water with the sand is raised into great tanks and cyanide is allowed to percolate thru it. This takes off a good deal of the remaining gold. Another method, in the case of rich ores, is to burn out the iron and then filter with chlorine. Johannesburg- Jan. 16. I had been told that the Kaffirs at the Robinson Mine would dance for Mrs. Chamberlain this morning so I went but. However, I was disappointed in both Mrs. Chamberlain and the dancing, for neither attraction appeared, I went back to the hotel and had lunch and went out again and was fortunate this time in suing the dancing. His very funny. There is an accompaniment on the Kaffir jeans. This I must say is timed a good deal better than a good many white people;  that I have had the misfortune to hear. It takes several men to play the instrument, each man playing just one scale from C to C. The boys are rigged up in great head dresses made of feathers and have tufts of hair or skins fastened around their legs and arms. Some have lion skins. They jump up and down on the flat of the feet, grunting like American Indians, as the same time brandishing shields and . From this performance I went to the Crown Deep Mine, muting there the manager, Mr. Price. The man in charge of the smelting department conducted me around. He was an American from New Orleans and had been in Johannesburg all thru the war. He was disgusted with the results of the war. The people had gained the franchise, but what good did it do them?. There was no work and the mines were cutting down in wages. An enormous amount of ammunition, he said, had been smuggled into the country in boiler tubes and machine parts and hidden away in the mines. Went to Braamfonteiu and took pictures of Mr. Chamberlain’s train. Returned to the hotel and loaded my truck on a rickshaw and went off to the station. Arrived in Butoeia at 7:45 p.m. and drove to the Besston Lodge in a rickety conveyance which I thought would upset at any time. Could not get lodgings here, so stayed overnight at the British Imperial, and the next day took up lodgings at the Besston Lodge- Pretoria. Jan. 17- Called upon F. B. Smith of the Agricultural Department; and spent the rest of the morning hunting up other government officials. In the afternoon I returned to the lodge and spent the time printing photos and writing. Besston Lodge is a great place for government employee. There are a fine set of fellows, tho they suffer badly from a lack of social diversion. There is no place where they can go when the days work is over, and some of them go back to work in the evening surely to pass the time and from want of something better to do. I met a number of the fellows- Gregg, Charter, Hoff, and they were very sociable. Pretoria- Jan. 18- Spent the day writing and getting photographs in order. In the afternoon Charter, Gregg, another fellow and myself went to the zoo. Pretoria. Jan. 19- Got my mail and photos off. Called at the consulate in the afternoon, but found no one in. Spent the rest of the day printing and mounting pictures. Pretoria- Jan. 20. Visited the repatriation Camp with Lieut. Wilson Drove out in his cart He has charge of transport. Boers are notified when a column will start for a certain district; and are told to have their kits ready. The wagons are loaded up and hauled by spans of sixteen mules each. with every caravan there goes a head conductor, conductor and sub-conductor. There is a depot with stores and transport for every district. I looked over the stores at the Camp. There were heaps of forage, barbed wire, mealie cutters, harrows and plows, the latter all of the Eagle brand, an American make. On our way back we passed the race course and Krugers residence and church. Found Mr. Proffit at last, and he took me around with him to the club where I was introduced to Mr. Van Nepheu, formerly postmaster general of the Transvaal. He informed me that there was a committee of Englishmen visiting the country to endeavor to ascertain why English goods were not making the head-way which American manufacturers seemed to be getting. He attributed this to the lack of adaptability of English ferries, He mentioned an instance of how Americans are advertising ploughs. A firm recently cooked up a lawsuit in which it was made to appear that Crouji send the ferries for selling him a poor plough. The firm took this occasion to bring in ample evidence of the excellence of their article and its superiority over all other makes. Pretoria- Jan. 21- 1903. Had my first ride on a S. African horse this morning. Got up at 6 a.m. and got a horse from George Howard. Charter went with me. He owns a horse, we rode out to Kitchener’s headquarters. The colonial horses are very easy riders, tho the saddles they use here are uncomfortable. They are polished off in such a way that you can’t get a grip with your knees. Called on A. C. MacDonald, Chief of Stock in the Repatriation Dep’t, but could not see him. Called again at 3:30. He was rather peppery in his remarks, and had it not been policy to do otherwise I should have given him some American straight talk. He said the Boers were disgusted with the Americans for their professions of sympathy which never materialized in any sort of assistance. However, he gave me a letter to Botha and I went to see him but could not find him in. The £3,000,000 is a free gift; in addition the Boers are getting other assistance how much this would amount to Mr. Macdonald could not say. Pretoria- Jan. 22. Had a more successful day of it. Made an appointment to meet the chief of education at 9:30 am. The following day, and to meet Mr. J. Buchan, Lord Milner’s secretary, at 3:00 p.m. Mr. Van alpheu gave me a letter of introduction to a gentleman in Belfast and general letter to the Dutch. In the afternoon I called on Mr. Buchan. He is a splendid young college man, played thru-quarters back on his college team, was sub editor of the spectator, had been admitted to the bar after taking his Bet., and is now serving as Lord Milner’s right hand man. He is well acquainted with Sir William Anson, and we had a pleasant chat in regard to American and English law. He said Storey and Marshall were now being studied by Englishmen. I told him to how founded on that of England. The Transvaal, he said, is now in a critical condition economically; the country needed for development free introduction of necessities- yet customs duties were the only source of revenue. At present the income falls over a million short of expenditure. Twenty seven millions had to be raised for permanent improvements, besides the thirty millions which the mines had taken up. It was impossible to tell as yet how things would finally adjust themselves. He advised me to take heavy clothing with me on the trip, and he also gave me a general letter of introduction to all superintendents of repatriation. Mr. Buchan is a brilliant man, and I expect to hear of him some day as Colonial Secretary. In the evening I succeeded in finding General Louis Botha at the Transvaal Hotel. He advised me to go thru Boksburg, Heedel Very and Ermolo- the Eastern district, between the Delaqua Line and the Natal Line, if I wished to the effects of the war. The General is a most handsome man, with a fine clear eye, and a general wholesome air about him which compels admiration. There was another majestic gentleman with him- Judge Hertzog, I believe- a man of fine physique, clear eyes, and a beautiful, long beard. Such men are the salt of the earth. General Botha said he was going down to Natal the next morning and sell his farm. They insist on making my country a part of Natal, and I cannot live there. I am going to sell my farm in Veyhind and trek away. You must by all means see the Eastern part. That is the most fertile and the most thickly populated, and it is there that you will see most of the devastation of the war- the houses are all burned down. I wish you the best of success in your journey, and hope I may see you again.” Pretoria. Jan. 23. Called on Mr. Fabian ware, Acting Director of Education; he gave me a general letter of introduction to the inspectors of schools of the Transvaal. It seems that every district has an inspector whose duty it is to “ride the cercint” and see how the schools of the district are being conducted. Two hundred teachers have been brought over from England, Canada and the other colonies. Of these, Mr. Ware told me, five had proved undesirable. As yet there are no school buildings, and the teaching takes place in marguees on the farms. The English teachers are becoming very popular. Not long ago the little ones got up a petition to have a favorite teacher returned to them. Five hours a week may be devoted to Dutch, if the people so desire. Pretoria- Jan. 24- Spent the day in getting things ship-shape for the bicycle tripm My place now is to go to Rustenburg, Zeerust, Lichtenburg, Jentersdorp, Potchefatroom, Veedefort, Heilbron, Frankfort, Veide and Harri-smith. Here I take the rail for Ladysmith. Pretoria- Jan. 25. Spent the day writing. In the evening attended the Wesleyan Church and then went to the gardens. Pretoria- Jan. 26. Left Pretoria at 10 a.m. and steered out thru Davesport. After going thru the pass I crossed the railroad track and took up a westerly course. Before long I met a man in Khaki riding alongside a wagon. I asked him if I were on the right track, and he said I was. We rode along together for about ten miles. He was on the repatriation staff and was going out to a place some fif-teen miles from Pretoria to see about some sick mules. He was afraid they would all be dead when he got there. He continued to chat about his experiences in the war. He had been a scout and had ridden up and down the valley again and again, and knew it thoroughly, and he described the system fully. He had come out in the Cameron Highlanders and had volunteered to scout. The service is a difficult and hazardous one. The men are informed of this fact when they offer themselves. The pay, however, is no greater than that of the ordinary soldier- at any rate it was not during the greater part of the war. Towards the last the scouts got a few pence more. The evidences of the war were plain all thru the valley. One important fort crowned a part of the range on our left. Barbed wire entanglements were scattered about and corrugated iron block houses looked particularly vicious in the hot sun. Horse had been dying off in great numbers, and their carcasses were scattered about the roadside while great throngs of carrion birds hovered above, waiting a chance to pounce upon them. The stench in many places was unbearable. The sight of this was a very convincing argument to me against drinking water. I passed quite a large military cemetery, the white crosses beating back the brazen sun. By this time my friend, the scout,, had fallen into the rear, for his horse could not keep up with my wheeling. I crossed one branch of the Crocodile River by bridge, and then another over the foot bridge. After this a long climb up to Kommando  lay before me. The san was so hot and the grade such that I was compelled to walk, and before getting to the top I lay down in the shade of a  to rest. After half an hour I summoned energy to continue the rest of the way up. At the top a fine view of the valley awaited me. To the left there ran the unbroken range of the Megaies berge. To the right there stretched a great plain whose soil seemed, from the appearance of a few outcropping Koppies, to be the results of the rock decomposition. In the distance on the right there jutted out the dark, jagged peaks of the Zwart Kop-pies, differing entirely in their appearance from the gentle curves of the Megoliesberge It was easy coasting now for a distance of two or three miles. Then the country became broken by little abrupt rises, sprints and patches of sand. I came to an outspanned wagon and sizing up one of the men as a Dutchman, I asked “Kaun en mire en trunk wasser gebe.” He understood me, tho I had sprinkled in German with the Dutch. He got me, however, a drink of tea. This was very refreshing. His partner lay under a tree, and from his smooth face I concluded was an Englishman. I rode on after learning that it was still seven miles to Walliters Kop where the scout had told me I would find a hotel. But it was now three o’clock and the heat was intense; it was very hard work going over the sprints and up the hills and before long I stretched out under a tree for and there rest. An S.A.C. man on horse-back passed by. After an hour’s nap I continued the journey and soon came in sight of ruined farm houses. I passed a  right by the road, where I was told Walliters Kop was still three miles away. It began to sprinkle presently and I was thinking of turning under a shade tree when I caught sight of a ruined house by the road-side and a hill not far distant. This I concluded must be the hotel. I  speed and got to the place first as the big drops were coming down. It was the “hotel”- tho the building had been completely wrecked. A temporary corrugated iron roof was put over part of the walls that were still standing. In front several rose bushes bloomed luxuriously all unconscious of and in violent contrast to the destruction around them. I was told that I could have such accommodation as the place offered. The S.A.C. man had come up before me and I ordered some claret for us. The rain came down heavily for a few minutes, but it was only a thunder shower and soon cleared off. However I decided to remain at Ross’s hotel for the night. The place was being run by a Mr. Smints, a Dutchman. and Mrs. Ross. Mr. Ross was away in Pretoria. In the evening we had a frugal meal in the tent back of the hotel, Mrs. Ross and her tow children and Mr. Snents setting at the table. After supper the wagon I had met on the road came up, and I learned the name of the man who had given me the tea. It was Manning, he was an Irishman; his partner’s name was Francis. Both had become Trans-vaal Turghers and had fought in the war. Francis was a printer by trade and he was going to Rustusburg to  for opening. He and his partner were trekking with five donkeys- they had had six, but one died on the road. That night I retired early, and Sumts and myself slept in the only avail-able room in the ruins. Walliter’s Kop- Jan. 27- At four o’clock Sumts woke me up and gave me a drink of coffee. Then he had the Kaffir boy take the tub down to the spring and fire it for me, and there in the open I had a most refreshing bath. After dressing I took a walk to Walliter’s Kop and had a glorious view over the valley to the Zwart Koppies. The Kop showed the signs of careful fortification. Every available point was taken up by stone sangars. I picked up a couple of cartridges. Sumts informed me that Delvet had been hemmed in on the Kop- the road in both directions, towards Pretoria and Rustenbury, was occupied by British troops. Delvet, however, sent part of his commando away to the north over the Zwart Koppies, and with the other crossed the Thegaliesberge Badu. Powell occupied the road to Pre-toria, and Delvet sent him a message informing him that he would attack at three in the afternoon, and requesting him to be ready so that he (Delvet) might not have to wait. Walliter’s Kop is named after one of the boetrekkers who had gone far in advance of his party. His comrades organized a search for him and after verily looking for him for several days they espied smoke on the hill, and found that he had encamped there. I came back with an enormous appetite for breakfast, and sat down eagerly to the breakfast of porridge and boiled eggs. While we were eating several Boers dropped in to chat. They were very friendly to me when they learned I was an American. I said I wanted to  the country- they thought I had come at a very unfortunate time, as everything had been destroyed in the war and the farmers were “beiarm.” But I said that was exactly what I wanted to see. Hermanns Rasther me he would take me over his farm and his brother in law Grobeler’s farm, and the farm belonging to his mother. After breakfast we went to Grobeler’s. Every home on the place was utterly destroyed- even the one which the oortrekkers had built. Grobeler and his family were living in a tent. he was cultivating a patch of beans as we came up and when Ras explained our visit he shook hands cordially and went with us thru what had been the orchard. The trees in many cases had been cut or burned down. He was starting anew, however, and showed us how he was budding “suet lemon”(naiye) buds on “suer lemon” stalks. There was a plough lying in the orchard made in Moling Ill. He had paid $22 for it and was much surprised when I told him it could be bought in America for $13. Besides the oranges and lemons there were prickly pears, apples, pomegranates and a clump of bamboos on the place. We went up towards the tent where Grobeler introduced his wife Ras, according to the custom of the country, kissed here. The two little boys came from the sprint where they were playing and shook hands in a very respectful way. I found this custom at all the farmhouses, and it certainly is a pleasing one. Grobeler fell to yarning about the war. He had fought all thru, never having been taken prisoner. He had surrendered a rifle to the English when they took Pretoria, but he took good care to have a Lee Nutford, Winchester, and Martini still safely concealed in his home. This they all laughed over. We went next to my guides’ place. He introduced his wife and children. They were living in a tent next the Kaffir quarters. Their house, which Mrs. Ras told me had had “nine Kammen,” was a total wreck, and there was no hope of fitting it up for even temporary occupancy. The Kaffirs had all gone away and part of their house- one room- was roofed over with corrugated iron to supplement the accommodations afforded by the tent. They invited me into the one room available and Mr. Ras began to bring out and show me the relics of the war. he had been twenty-one months a prisoner at thurdnayar, India. He had only been back one month. His wife had come back in September from the concentration camp at Irene. All her children had survived, tho she said eleven hundred women and children had died in the camp. Herr Ras must have had a beautiful farm at one time. He had two large reservoirs on the place which he tapped by means of ditches, thus irrigating his orange and banana plantations. The mansion must have been a noble edifice. He showed me a cave where the Englishmen had hunted for him, not thinking that he was already a prisoner of war in India. He sent his son Cornelius, a little fellow of ten years along with me t o show me his mother’s place. The little chap chattered most volubly all the way, tho I could not understand a word of what he said. The old lady we found in a ruined mansion which must have been a beautiful dwelling before the war. Now most of the roof was off, the doors and windows were knocked out, and part of the walls were down. Mrs. Ras, a dignified lady who bore her three score and ten with ease and as yet showed no grey hair, received me in her sitting room. Most of the furniture had been carried off or destroyed during the war. All that was left were a few chairs and a couple of tables on one of which were displayed portraits of the late president and of her own family. I could not make her, or her son, understand my German- Dutch, so after a short stay I left. Herr Hormanns Ras invited me to dinner- such as it was. His wife spread for us a repast of corned beef, potatoes, bread and butter and coffee. We at first- she and the children afterwards, which I believe is the Dutch custom. After the meal Herr Ras bowed his head and gave thanks. What struck me particularly in these people was their continuing faith, after all their troubles, and the entire absence of complaining. They bore all their misfortunes with a patient resignation. There was not expressed one word of bitterness against their enemies. After taking pictures of the house and of the children I bade the family goodbye and went back to the “hotel.” From there I picked my way across the  to the Moravian mission station. I found the missionaries- Rev. Jordt and two others- engaged in “plandern” over their coffee and pipes. I felt that I had been dropped into the sixteenth century. Mr. Jordt wore a long beard, and the other men likewise were unshaven except for the upper lip. They made bitter complaints of the manner in which the English had con-ducted the war. They had burnt down two of the mission houses for no other reason tan that the sons of the missionaries happened to be burlers. They had carried away all the pigs, poultry and provisions they could find. They said that “die Enlander haben keinen bosen liutershied geeacht”- they destroyed everything they came to. When I returned I found that Smits had been away all afternoon at Captain Darius’ Kraal. A couple of tobacco merchants had come from Pretoria to buy up tobacco, and he had gone with them to the chief to help make the purchase. The evening I spent chatting with Sumts, who inweighed bitterly against the English for what they had done. Walliter’s Kop- Jan. 28. Smats roused me at 4:30 and gave me a cup of coffee and I started off for Rustenburg, thirty miles away. I took the lower, or turf road, as it is called, as that is the shorter, the it is not nearly as good as the road which skirts the foot of the Megaliesberge. It was all free of hum-mocks which kept me bouncing up and down in the saddle. I met a couple of S. A. G. men and passed them. At Sterkstroom Drift I overtook a Repatriation cowry in charge of a Dutchman. They were having a hard time getting over the drift. The Dutchamn was lashing the oxen furiously and yelling like an Indian. The trouble was that he could not get all the oxen to pull at the same time- and it must be a difficult task to keep a span of sixteen oxen together. When finally the wagon began to move he gave a wild Indian war whoop, and up they went on the other side. I remarked to him that it was a “sahr slichte drift”, but he said the trouble was they were “alles yonge ossen.” The road lay over a comparatively flat country, which at times dipped into a bit of swampy ground. The soil seemed very fertile- a black loam. The horse sickness, however, was bad. Carcasses were scattered all over the road, and I made a fresh resolve to drink no water. Seventeen miles from Rustenburg I passed a hotel and got a drink of lime juice. The road gradually rises towards a nick about seven miles from Rustenburg. This had evidently been held by a large fence during the war, as it was well fortified with  and sangars. I lay down in the shade for a while and then took up the ride again. Rustenburg, with two white churches prominent among its corrugated iron roofs, lay in the distance, on the edge of a broad plain. I tried several time to take a picture, but the heat rising from the ground made this impossible. Some distance ahead of me was a herd of two hundred cattle. I caught up with them. The man in charge explained to me that he was bringing them for the Repatriation in Rustenburg. He had come from a place east of Pretoria and was now on his fifth day. He could not travel more than fifteen miles a day with the cattle. His horse was just succumbing to the sickness. It dropped in the road and he was obliged to get off. But even after that I noticed that it fell down. I took a picture of the herd which I promised to send him. In Rustenburg I went at once to the Grand Hotel- a place overrun with khaki. I had several big drinks of lime juice, a good German dinner, for the peace is kept by Ger-mans, and then lay down for a rest. About four o’clock I called upon Mr. Clark, the superintendent of education for the Rustenburg district. He had just received a consignment of school furniture from Kreegers. dorp, and it was all scattered about the yard by his house. Teachers were being sent into districts where they could not get house accommodations. Consequently every thing had to be supplied. They were practically set up in house keeping. Two teachers were sent to a school and they were supplied with a unit- this consisted of a marquee, a stove, two beds, two dressers, a box of porcelain, a bath tub, two  chairs, two camp chairs, two mattresses, and a few other items, making thirteen in all. Mr. Clark had already fourteen schools going in the Rustenburg district, but he hoped to have forty in time. The farmers were taking up with the schools quite enthusiastically. He had more demands for school teachers than he could supply. I noticed casually that the stores supplied with the units were of Americans make, as were also the bath tubs- a crowning indignity. The Clark advised me to call at the waterkloof School, on Hans Eloff’s farm, and he gave me a letter to Miss Jerome, the teacher, and Mr. Eloff. When I left the place I was mortified to find that my bicycle tire had flattened out in spite of my efforts to find a puncture during the afternoon. I got a piece of tubing from a stone, however, and mended the tire in the evening. It was an old tire and was getting spongy. That night I slept uneasily, as I feared my trip might come to an ignominious end. Rustenburg. Jan. 29- Got up at 4:00 and felt my tire, which, indeed, I had been doing at intervals all thru the night. It did not feel very reassuring- however, I determined to seek out. It was still quite dark as I left the hotel, but as I ascended the first pan the slanting rays of the sun began to light up the hillsides- the valley itself was still quite in the dark. After going thru the pan the road divides, one going to the left to Megatornek, and the other straight on to Megatodorp. I took the former. The ride thru the valley was beauty-ful indeed. The first rays of the sun were just beginning to glint on the dew which sparkled on the luxuriantly green foliage and grain. The trekkers by the roadside were just preparing breakfast. I got a drink from one party. Gradually the road ascended towards Megatornek. This Passed a number of vultures tearing up a house. They were perched around the carcass and with sharp beaks were ripping out the entrails. As I approached they tried to get away, but were too gorged to make a rapid flight. They waddled off awkwardly until they could get enough weigh to use their wings and then flapped off to a safe distance. They are an ugly bird, with raw, red necks, and slaty feathers. nek was held in force during the war. It is thoroughly fortified. The guarding hills are crowned with blockhouses, and the approach is to the pass are defended by stone sangars. At the summit of the pass I found an S.A.G. post, and here I stopped for breakfast. A beautiful view spread out before you in undulating ridges, bounded by a high range in the distance. I sat for about an hour enjoying the view together with the breakfast of sardines and biscuits and water. The descent from the pm is rather steep at first; but it becomes more gradual as you go on. I put my feet on the forks and coasted for about three miles. Not far from the nek lies a cemetery which marks the bloody field of Moedwil where a hundred and fifty Englishmen fell in as many minutes. The sun was now becoming very hot and I found it hard riding. I lay down for a rest by the roadside and there went on. From the top of a rise I saw some men at work upon building, and this I took for Woodstock. From here I turned off from the main road in the direction of Hans Eloff’s farm. An hour’s ride thru heavy sand and over stones brought me to the Kaffir houses and then to the homestead. Mrs. Eloff, a typical Dutch woman with round face and round blue eyes, I found at home, but her husband had not returned from Rustenburg. There was with her a Herr Botha, who walked with a crutch. When I said I wished to see Miss Jerome and the school he said he was going in that direction towards his farm, and that I could go along. He mounted his horse, slinging the crutch over his arm and we rode off. He had been taken prisoner by the British, and was at one time engaged in taking a conary to Zerrust for the British army. Another band of Englishmen came upon the convey, took the Boers prisoner, and as Botha was lame, and apparently useless as a soldier, gave him a kick and told him to go. He was then taken by a Boer commando, and brought before De la Rey who said he must be shot for having helped the English- the only condition on which he would be spared was that he would take up arms again against the English. Consequently, cripple that he was, he joined the commando and fought to the end of the war. He was present at Moeduil and received a wound in his crutch- for which he was thankful. We came to the schoolhouse, a little building of sunburned brick thatched with straw. The school teacher, Miss Jerome, received us cordially and gave us  in front of the school The room-there was only one- and no floor- was crowded with children of all ages from six to eighteen. Some of the children had to stand as there were not seats enough for all. Miss Jerome pointed out two grandsons of Paul Kruger, Kaspar and Jan Kruger, and then called upon individual pupils who were related to the president to rise. About half the school was standing when she had finished calling the names. The Rustenburg district, which he had claimed for himself when the voortrekkers entered the country. Not far from the school lived Jan Kruger, the president’s son, in a tent beside the ruins of his mansion. He had given all his ready cash, £2000 to help the Boer cause, and now that they had lost he was left penniless- so Miss Jerome informed me. Not far from him lived Michael Eloff, a son-in-law of the president. The session closed at about one o’clock with the children singing “Three Blind Mice,” “Christmas is coming” and other songs. Then Miss Jerome and I walked back to Hans Eloff’s house for lunch. She invited me to stay at the house for the night, which I was glad to do. After lunch we ate our fill of figs and peaches and prickly pears in the orchard and then went over to Michael Eloff’s house. We found his daughters playing tennis in the back yard believed the temporary house which had been put up in place of the one which was destroyed. The girls struck me as very cultured- they talked intelligently on current topics and I wondered where they could possibly get the information in the out of the way place in which they were living. We all went to the waterfall of the Koster River which is on their farm. The river comes down in a sort of canon and there are numerous caves and holes in the sides. Miss Jerome said they had been made by bushmen. In one of these caves Paul Kruger had hid for six months from his people during the Civil War of the three republics- Pretoria, Nylstroom and Patchefstroom. From the cave we thought of going to Jan Kruger’s house, but the girls thought it was too far away, so we returned to Hans Eloff’s and had supper. On one side of the house there stands a watch tower which was used by the Boer sentries during the war. The Boer leaders had met frequently for consultation in the chambers of the house, and I was given a room in which they said General Botha had slept. Woodstock, Jan. 30. Arose at five and began the trek. In my endeavor to find a short cut across to the main road I lost my way and had to come back again. Under a tree by the stores on the main road I had breakfast and then began a climb up a long rise. Over-took several carts near the Top and then coasted down, only to go up another hill against a breeze. Passed a crowd of negroes superintended by a Boer at work on the road near the Elands River. He told me it was still two and a quarter down to Lea’s place, where I intended putting up for dinner and for the night. The ensuing thirteen miles were certainly long over. I finally came to another gang of workmen who assured me that Leo’s place was just under the hill. I came to a hill crowned with a Kaffir Kraal. I left my wheel by the roadside and entered the Kraal. It was now being occupied by an S.A.G. outpost, for the negroes had deserted the place. The post afforded a beautiful outlook over the hills and valleys towards Krugersdorp. After a refreshing drink I picked up my bicycle and walked down hill. The road showed signs of a good deal of recent work. There was a miserable looking sun baked brick building by the road, but I concluded that could not be Leo’s place and pedaled on. On and on I went for miles, but no store showed itself, so I concluded that the miserable little place must have been Leo’s and I opened my kit and took out biscuits and sausage for dinner. I had gone down into a donga under a mimosa tree, and thought I would stay here for the afternoon until it became cooler. But I soon became impatient and rode on. It was burning hot and most of the road lay up hill. After two hours of this I arrived on an eminence here I could look far down over a valley. It proved to be the Great Marico River. An Indian peddler, with pack upon his head met me. A little further on I spied a couple of outriders and a considerable convoy of carts behind them and I concluded this must be Sir Arthur Lawley’s party. I stepped into the bush and got a good snapshot of the gentleman as he passed. A little further on I came to the widest river I had yet struck, in the Transvaal, and in going over the drift came near falling in, as the stones were loose. Beyond a little rise stood Dyason’s store. There was a gang of men at work on the road here. I had several good drinks of Enos’ fruit salt, and then sat down to dinner, such as it was. The store was being kept by two brothers by the name of Dyason. They were Dutchmen, spoke English well, and apparently had had a good education. One had been General Lemmer’s secretary. The other, Frank, had also fought all thru the war. They were both bitter at the loss of their land- and who could blame them. I said that to my mind the war was the crime, not of the English nation, but of Ceal Rhodes, Leonce Phillips, the Rand capitalists, and Joseph Chamberlain, who acted as their tool. Their store had been leveled to the ground during the war. However, they had received nothing from the Repatriation and they did not intend to apply for anything- the less they had to do with the British government the better. They thought the Repatriation was simply a scheme of the English to foreclose on them in the end and get their land away from them. I lay under a tree for a while for a sleep, but a thunder shower drove me away. At about four o’clock Frank Dyason, Burgess, the S.A.G. man, and myself went for a swim in the Marico. After a refreshing plunge I took a picture of Burgess with his pet monkey, and also one of the store and the cemetery behind it. The latter contained the graves of eleven men who fell in the action of September 5, 1901. I had supper with the family, and after that Frank Dyason and I went across the way to the S.A.G. post and spent the evening at cards with Burgess and another S.A.G. trooper. We began singing songs, which led me to ask Frank for some of the Boer national songs, and he promised to send me some at Durban. That night, in accordance with my wish, I slept out in the open. Groot Marico. Jan. 31- At half past four I got under weigh again. The riding was delightful, as it was very cool, the sky was clouded, and the rain had laid the dust. Came to a gang that was repairing the road. They were just getting their breakfast. Not far from them, after crossing a spring, I saw quite a number of mud houses with straw roofs and fields of mealies. As I rode along I came to a ruined house- evidently at one time a store and a dwelling of some protrusions. It was built in the Dutch style with a low wall around the dooryard and some remnants of a flower garden accentuated the present desolation. A tent stood nearby. I decided to take a snapshot, but the sun was so clouded that I was obliged to wait some time. Meanwhile a Dutchman came to buy something. A young Englishman came from the tent and opened the store. I went in too and asked for a drink of lime juice. He said he had none, but invited me to his tent for a drink of coffee. He also set some bread and butter before me, all of which was very appetizing. I offered to pay, expecting that the bill would be two shillings at any rate, but he refused to take anything. I was astonished. Pure hospitality among business people I thought was impossible. Every one in the Transvaal, with the exception of the Boers, seems set upon grabbing all the money he can and then getting away. The road in the neighborhood of Zeerust is hilly, but most of the grade favors one approaching the town. Over the trees I soon caught sight of the iron roofs. There is quite a sprint across the road just before to enter the town. Here I stopped for some minutes. Shortly after leaving the store, I forgot to add, I met a man carrying a bicycle across a print. I caught up with him on the other side, and received a warning from his ill-luck. One side of a link in his driving chain had worn through. The chain still held together precariously. He tried to ride, but suddenly the link gave way. I told him I had no link, and advised him to ho back to the store and see what could be done there. Not long afterwards I had a similar piece of bad luck. Zeerust is a charming little town, with just one business street where the stores and hotels are located. I went to the Marico Hotel- a pretty, well kept place which reminded me strongly of a sea side resort. The struts were still decorated with the bunting which had been put up to welcome Sir Arthur Lawley. I went around to a number of stores trying to get films for my camera; only one place had them, and they were not the size. I had dinner at the Hotel Maries and then met Mr. Sutton, superintendent of repatriation. He said the Boers were settling down peaceably. He introduced me then to the superintendent of roads for the Western Transvaal. Six gangs of men, he said were engaged in repairing the road at various places between Woodstock and Zeerust. Most of the men were Kaffirs who received 1/6 a day. There were also two hundred whites, Boers, employed at 6/- a day. This he said was practically a work of charity. At three o’clock I started off for Malmanie. The roads were splendid having just been repaved, but the sun was so hot that I felt obliged to lie in the shade until it was a little cooler. Then I took up my way again and soon came to a beautiful copse of willows, cypress, and fig orchards. A quaint little house covered with vines nestled among quin trees. Across the road, however stood several gaping ruins. I noticed the surroundings at the time and thought they made the finest spot- I had yet seen in the Transvaal. For a couple  the road went down grade, intersected by two sprints and a slant, on the opposite of which stood several buildings. I asked a man for the nearest store and he directed me to the left. I came to a general store and asked for a lime juice. The jew proprietor had none, but he ordered some coffee made. Conversation revealed the fact that he was an American citizen, and that he had at one time lived in Chicago. His store had for several months been General Methueu’s headquarters. While the coffee was coming he offered me a plate of figs, which I found excellent. As we were sipping the coffee a man by the name of Botha came in. The storekeeper explained that he was the son of Commandant Botha and that the place I had admired on the way was the commandant’s house. I determined to stay at Jacobsdal- That was the name of the place- for the night. He directed me to a Mr. Nordeu, a Swede, who lived a short distance down the road as one who could put me up for a day or so. He would not accept anything for the coffee- another piece of generosity for which I was quite un-prepared. He pointed out the way to Nordeens, and there I went. Mr. Nordeen I found a small, spare man, with gray pointed beard. He had travelled the world over, and ended up in Jacobsdal, this out of the way, unheard of place. He readily agreed to give me such accommodations as he had. So I put up my wheel. The rear tire was beginning to alarm me again, and I was told there was no place where I could get repairs. It was delightfully cool in the evening. We had a plain but satisfying supper. A young German was also put-ting up with Mr. Nordeen. He had a store in Lichtenburg, and was arranging to start up one in Jacobsdal. There was also at the table an American, an old man, George Hall by name. After the meal we sat out on the stoop enjoying the cool of the evening. A breeze started up and the stars came out brightly. The two old men, Nordeen and Hall began to recall reminiscences of their varied carriers. Hall was a native of New Hampshire, had gone out to California with the forty-niners. From there he had gone to Australia, where he stayed sixteen years. Then to South Africa. “And from here you are going home?” suggested Nordeen. “What home do you mean?” Hall asked. We were all silent, “Things don’t always turn out as we expect,” Nordeen mused. “If the Malmaine Goldfields had turned out as I expected I would have gone to Stockholm again before going to the long home. But I haven’t lost faith. I believe Malwaine will be thoroughly prospected some day yet.” Nordeen explained to me afterwards that he thought Uncle George had come to stay with him. He had known him for twenty-five years. “Has he a family or any relatives?” I asked. “I don’t know,” was the reply. “I never asked him.” I turned in at about two and spent a night in agony. Hot needles seemed to be pricking me all over my feet. Again and again I got up, lit the candle, and tried to find out what was the cause of my discomfort, but not a trace of an animal could I find. I concluded that I must be coming down with the measles, and so tried to compose myself for sleep. It was all in vain. Not until morning did I get any rest. I have omitted to state that I ran back on my wheel to Commandant Botha’s home. I found an old man who seemed to have lost none of the robust vigor of youth. He stood strong and erect, and only a fine gray beard betrayed his age. When I was trying to make him understand my Dutch his son came up. The same that I had met at the store. He had inherited all of his father’s manly beauty. Jacobsdal, Sunday, Feb. 1. After break-fast I took a sun over to the commandant’s house to get a picture. On the way back I met a large convoy of repatriation mules watering at a sprint not far from the house. Sent the morning in trying to repair my rear tire. But the tube was evidently rotten. All I could hope was that it would last me till I got to Malwanie. In the afternoon I called on the schoolteachers, Miss Ellis and Miss Boeden. Miss Ellis, I soon found, was a Canadian lady and had at one time taught in Duluth. So of course I began to compare notes with her. She found it very irksome teaching at Iverbsdal, and I could not see how it could be otherwise. There was absolutely no society or diversion for them. The people were poor, and in fact seemed to belong to the lower class of Boers. We went over to the school house which had been adapted from a church. It was a large building, with corrugated iron roof, pleasant and cool in summer, but cold in winter. Miss Ellis said the Dutch children were very tractable and anxious to learn. Some were as far advanced as children at home, though the long war had put them back a good deal. I had intended going on to Malmanie and Mafeking that night, but by the time I left the ladies it was too late to start. So I put in another night of agony in Nordeen’s bed. Jacobsdal. Feb. 2. Early in the morning, just as I was getting some sleep, Nordeen roused me and said it was high time to be on trek. I had a cup of coffee, and by five was off. My tire looked very dubious, but I trusted to luck that it would hold until I got to Mamanie. The country was beautiful. The morning sun was just beginning to break over the hills and the valleys were all in the dark. The road was good, tho it contained some long grades. One of these, about four miles from Malmanie, as I should judge, brought me upon a level plateau. This suddenly dropped abruptly, and at the bottom lay the village of Ottoshoop and the Malmanie goldfields. There was only one street with houses straggling along at irregular intervals. At one of the stores I inquired for bicycle fixtures, but they had none. At the next place I had a drink of lime juice- a bad habit I had gotten into, for unconsciously I was being weakened by it. A few S.A.G. men stood about, and of them I inquired the road to Mofeking. It led straight out of the village, so they told me, and I could not possibly miss it. I pumped up my rear tire and prepared for a bit of scorching against the leak in the tire. My usual luck was still with me. The road was excellent, and the wind in my back, I went spinning along at fifteen miles an hour. The country was bare and absolutely uninteresting. Several times, however, I was compelled to stop and pump up. About eight miles from Mafeking I came to a rather wide sprint, and had to make a detour to the right to cross it. A few S.A.G. tents stood here and one of the troopers came up to me as I was pumping up the tire and picked out a thorn. It was the first I had seen of the brown thorn. I became more intimately acquainted with the infernal species later on. A ride of four miles more brought the corrugated iron and tents of  in view. St. stands in an open plain, with not a bit of natural protection. The wonder is that it was not captured by the Boers. Suddenly, when about three miles away, my front tire also gave way. It was useless to attempt to file it, so I sat down philosophically by the roadside and proceeded to have something to eat, before undertaking the long walk into town. At the first place I came to I stopped. It happened to be the Surrey Hotel. I had another glass of the fatal lime juice, and then went to the room to lie down after my long walk. I slept a couple of hours. It was just one when I awoke. As I was putting on my coat I heard something drop. Looking round I saw a big black centipede, about nine inches long, lying on the floor. I jerked my coat off in a hurry and heeled the serpent. In the afternoon had a new tube put in my rear wheel and had the front one repaired, visited the Repatriation camp, but the superintendent was not in. Went next to the cemetery. This is well filled with soldier’s graves. Returning to the market square I happened by lucky chance to run upon Mr. Maurice White, school inspector for the Lichtenburg and Marico districts. He invented me out to his headquarters at the old refugee camp for dinner. This I gladly accepted and rode out on my wheel, he on his horse. It must be quite a distance, probably two miles, and I failed to take note of the road and of the place where we crossed the river. Had supper with Mr. White. He showed me a map of his district with schools marked. He also used the  system with which I had become acquainted at Rustenburg. At eight o’clock I took my leave. It was already quite dark. I followed the road for a great distance, but it did not seem to branch off to the river. My front tire had flattened out and I was obliged to lead the wheel. After walking what seemed a great distance I concluded that I had missed the drift and returned. A path branched off from the road I had been following. I took this. It soon disappeared in prickly grass. I felt my tire. It was studded with brown thorns. Brushing them off as well as possible I retraced my steps. I must have been wandering up and down for two hours before I met some Kaffir’s who pointed the way: But crossing the drift did not end my troubles. There seemed to be absolutely no road to Mafeking. Before I was aware my tires were full of brown thorn. The next thing I ran into a barbed wire fence and cut my hand. I gave up hope of ever getting to Mafeking, and sincerely wished the miserable town and the whole subcontinent in hell. Finally I came to a police post and one of the men set me on my road. Arriving at the hotel I set to work to pick out the thorns and repair the front tube. It was twelve before I got to bed. Mafeking. Feb. 3. At four o’clock I was away. Over the sprint by a footbridge and then a monotonous road over  country. About six miles out I met a Kaffir and inquired the way to Rooi Grand. He directed me and asked for tobacco. All I had I had stuffed into my big Dutch pipe. However, I offered him this and stood by as he dug it out and filled his. I came suddenly upon houses and as suddenly the road seemed to terminate in grass. A tent stood near by and I inquired of the Kaffir the way to Rooi Grand. He replied that that was Rooi Grand. However, I had gone afield, and it took me an hour to get set right again. The road was heavy and sandy with stones to break the monotony. But I seemed to be the only traveler, at least for some ten miles. There I met an S.A.G. trooper who informed me I was seventeen miles from Lichtenburg. There was a stolen, he said, three miles, further on and also a mission; at either place I could get a drink. I kept on and soon passed the mission station a half mile on my starboard; but nothing like an S.A.G. station was in sight: The road, which gradually dwindled into a couple of wheel tracks, passed close by a Kaffir Kraal. Just as I as despairing of finding the road I spied two troopers making across the veldt to the road ahead of me. I put on full steam and caught up with them. They said I was on the right road, and had only to keep straight ahead for Lichtenburg, which was seventeen miles away. The country was very uninteresting, and the heat was getting intense. However, the road was not absolutely deserted. There were several wagons on trek. This made the trip a little less lonesome. One wagon had a water bag dangling from the axle, and I got a drink. The  who are in the employ of the Repatriation have been spoiled. They are impudent and lazy- the result of too much indulgence and too strict an application of the theory of equality. The road all the way was bad- heavy ruts and stones where there was no sand. The country was uninteresting. On all sides spread the lurl prairie, unbroken by shade tree or hill. Not far from Lichtenburg, however, there is a copse. The sun was now so high that I lay down in the shade and fell asleep. After a few miles more riding the line of corrugated iron, broken or fringed by taller cypresses and willows, which form the usual skyline of a Transvaal village, came in sight. It seemed but a short distance away, but it seemed at least an hour before I dragged myself into the first hotel, where I was told everything was “full up.” On the way I passed a reservoir, almost dry, and a block-house. This, I learned afterwards, was the site of General DelaRey’s homestead. The house had been razed to the ground and the materials used for constructing the blockhouse. Finding no accommodation, I went to the next hotel, and as usual, called for a drink of the fatal lime juice. Accommodation was given me in a half ruined outhouse. The floor was mud, covered with hemp matting, and the ceiling was simply a dirty can-vas awning. After my Mafeking experience I took the precaution to examine the room carefully for reptiles. It did not seem at all reassuring. I had a bath directly after dinner and slept till four when I called on Mr. Howell, the school superintendent in the school building. He as a small man, quite undersized, and of delicate features. he struck me as being a person of tact rather than force. He showed me around the building, which at one time had been a hospital, and invented me to come the next morning when the school would be in session. From the school I went over to the DelaRey house, on the East side of the market square. A number of wagons stood in front of the place. The house itself English Concentration: Story of Labouchere and the man sitting in the corridor. was built of brick and plastered, but  of the plastering had fallen away. The house stood in the shade of a row of tall willows. I found Mrs. DelaRey and the children in the house, and Mrs. DelaRey’s brother. They readily consented to have a picture taken. I was then informed that they were luring in the town temporarily. The reservoir and the heap of ruins I passed in the morning had been their home. In the evening I met a young fellow by the name of Smith. He had come from Cape Town to take a position in the magistrate’s office. He was greatly discontented with the lonesomeness of Lichtenburg and half inclined to throw up his position and take the chances of getting another when he returned to Cape Town. He got so absorbed in telling me his troubles that the finally asked me to share his room with him. This I was glad to do, as I was not at all reassured as to the possible bedfellows I might find in the half ruined outhouse. Lichtenburg. Feb. 4- Early in the morning I ran out to the DelaRey farm and took several pictures of the ruins. After breakfast called at Repatriation headquarters and found them busy unloading a convoy of sugar. Went then to the school. Mr. Howell took me to the various rooms and introduced me to the teachers. Three of them, I believe had taught under the Dutch government. Miss Smith, who took the most advanced work, was from England. One of the teachers was engaged in teaching English by the picture method. The most advanced pupils wrote very good English and a good hand. After dinner spent some time tinkering up my front tire. I had become acquainted the previous evening with one Frisbie. He had been in the I.L.A. under Ryall, and entertained for that  a high esteem. He did not know where he was, nor in what business he was engaged. He said Ryall was a very plucky man in a fight, and that he would go anywhere under his leadership. Frisbie was a professional bicyclist and held the record for a good many long distance runs. He said he had made the forty- two miles to do  in three hours and a quarter. I inquired the road of him carefully. At three thirty I started. Smith delayed me, however, for some minutes with his  so that it was nearer four when I left the market place behind me. The road proved as Frisbie had described- excellent. The country, however, was flat and uninteresting. It was only broken at one place by a hollow with mud banks and a few acres of water in the bottom. there were a few houses, or huts, rather, around and willow trees. But these only made the place look the more desolate. By 5:30 p.m. I made Putfontein and stopped at a store. The rain was beginning to come down in heavy drops and I asked for a nights lodging. The keeper said he had no accommodation and advised me to keep on to Ventorsdorp which was only twenty-four miles away. I thought this was the best place and mounted my wheel, prepared to make good time for the rest of the way. For about ten miles from Putfontieu the road ascends gently- so gradually, however, that you do not get a sweeping view of the country. I kept up a good pace, especially as the rain was in my rear and I hoped to escape it. Now and then a few heavy drops overtook me. At one place in the road I came across an ugly, fat green snake about four feet-long, wiggly slowly across the path. I gave it a wide berth, as I had nothing to kill it, and I knew it as a poisonous species. This is the only snake I saw in South Africa. The road was lonesome. I passed only two vehicles in twenty miles. About sixteen miles from Pulfonteiu I passed thru a grove of trees which Frisbie had described to me. It was just getting dark, and the sky was overcast. The wood looked gloomy enough. From the impression I got from my chart, it seemed to me that the road was bearing too much to the north of east. This worried me some-what, but I kept on, tho it soon became quite dark, and I was unable to dodge the stones in the road. I took care, however, to keep my balance. It seemed to me that I must have ridden miles and miles in the dark, and no lights or any signs of a village showed themselves. Just as I was despairing thinking I had mistaken the road, a flame flared up in a word ahead of me. I jumped at the conclusion that  must be behind the trees. I passed a few Kaffir huts, and skirted the wood on the port tack. Soon I met a Kaffir, and asked him the way to . “Hoo weit?” I inquired in Dutch. He shook his head “Nict weit- hall stoud to perd.” Thus encouraged I went on, passing a road which branched off to the right. This caused me some misgivings at first, but as the road lay wide before me, I concluded the other merely lead to a farmhouse or Kraal. I travelled for twenty minutes, but no signs of lights or any town. I could just discern, however, in the dark before me what seemed a fringe of trees, such as usually skirt the streets of a Transvaal village. I passed thru a scattered wood- yet no town. I descended into a valley, and then started up on the opposite incline. Just as I was thinking I had missed the road a red light flashed in the distance. I stopped and took council whether it were best to keep on or to go back to the Kaffir Kraal and get directions. I decided upon the latter. I turned my wheel and started down the incline. Suddenly my wheel hit a huge stone, and off I went in a second. But I was unhurt: I picked up the wheel and was leading it along when suddenly the rear wheel stopped. I knew by this that I had struck the driving wheel and that it must be considerably bent. I shouldered the wheel and carried it about half a mile, back thru the wood. Then I tried to lead it, but this was clearly impossible- the chain snarled and snapped at every revolution. I could not carry it all the way to the Kraal, and I dare not have it- the only thing to do was to  out on the  till morning. So I went some ten yards to the side of the road, laid the while down, and undid my coat. It was gloomy enough- This prospect of a night alone on the open veldt, and not knowing just where I was. How-ever, I made the best of it. I regretted now that I had not followed the advice of Mr. Schmidt in Chicago, and provided myself with a Smith & Wesson. But I undid my pump, which I could use as a cudgel. My coat I spread on the ground, and the wheel, by means of the biscuit tin, I propped over me as some protection against whatever might be prowling about. It was 8:30 when I had made all these arrangements, and I thought of the many hours before dawn. Before long it began to rain. I must have slept rather soundly for tho I awoke several times during the night, the dawn began to break before I anticipated. A flight of crows caught sight of me and cowed vociferously as they settled down; but I drove them off. When it was a little lighter went up the road, which lay over a slight , to see if I could get a view of the country. Away on the right, in the direction towards which the road I passed the night before led off, I seemed to see some houses, and the usual line of cypresses and willow. I returned to my camp, however, thinking it better to wait until someone came along who could give me definite information. Irutersdorp- Feb. 5. Presently I noticed a figure rising over the hill. When he had got high enough up I saw to my delight it was a man. I waited patiently for him. He was a Kaffir, and told me I was on the right road to . I tried to bend the driving wheel into position, but this was impossible, so I took the chain off and led the wheel. Presently a group of negro  came down the road, an elderly girl with them. They were chatting like magpies. They evidently were carrying some trifles to the dorp to sell. The oldest girl, I noticed, had two pails of eggs. She had a figure of which a Dutchen might be proud- tall, lithe and graceful, and she walked with a steady swing from the hips. Indeed she reminded one of the mythical Diana. I let the chatterers go by and then followed with my wheel. I could not, of course, pump the machine, but on a down grade I coasted. The picanni tried to catch up with me, and I had a group of five or six black, laughing children chasing after. I now learned why I could see nothing of bentendorp. The town lies on the east side of a ramp which completely hides it from the view of those who approach from the west. Then had evidently been some hot skirmishing in the neighborhood. The ground was strewn with cartridges. There was a watch tower on the left side of the road, and to the right a signal station. It must have been from this station that the red light appeared on the previous evening. I went immediately to a hotel and waited impatiently for breakfast. After the meal I took the wheel to a Dutch blacksmith who had no difficulty in straightening out the driver. The chain I cleaned thoroughly with coal oil. Found out at the Repatriation depot that General Peet Croiye was at Polmietfonteiu, and that his house was just before you crossed the river. In going about the village I met a Mr. Chayne, a merchant. I asked him for more particulars of the road. He advised me to take the military way, which skirted the river. He then invited me to his house and gave me coffee and several bunches of grapes which I stowed in my bag for lunch. He was very kind indeed He had had a brother in Chicago who had died. He had his doubts about the future of the Transvaal. Like many others whom I had heard express an opinion, he thought all the monet that could be made out of the country had already been pocketed. The Transvaal could not compare as a wealthy country with parts of the United States, and it was reasonable to suppose that there would not be a permanent influx of population until those territories in America had been preempted. As he was a merchant of some prominence. I attached considerable importance to his opinions. I started from Ventersdorp at about eleven o’clock, resolved that I would not be caught out on the veldt again. The road took me over the river, and then skirted it at about a half mile’s distance. For eight or nine miles it went all right- then I came to three branches. I took the middle one and followed it for some miles until it degenerated into a whool track. Then I went back and took another route, with the same results. Finally I decided the only thing to do would be to strike off to the houses along the river and ask my way. A wheel track brought me to a broad road, but not feeling sure that this was the right path, I went back about a mile to where I noticed a store by the roadside. An old woman answered my questions in Dutch, told me I was “minder al seen stoud vod Pict Coujes plaas,” and that I must keep right on the main road, not crossing the river. She offered me figs and a drink of water. I started off on the new tack against a strong head wind and with a good deal of up hill work. The sun was hot and a good deal of sand in the road. After reaching an  I saw in the distance a corrugated iron stone. I went to this and inquired the way to Crouje’s house. The proprietor was an American jew, and on learning I was from Chicago, got out his sparklel’s bottle and gave me a drink. About a mile further on I passed another store in the course of . This was also owned by a jew. They told me I was on the right path. A large number of ruined buildings  the river on the right and bordered the road ahead of me. I went thru a ruined village and came to some swam-py ground with a slint running thru it. I  from a Boer that Crouje’s house was just ahead of me, so I sat down by the sprint and had my lunch of grapes, biscuits and lemonade. Crouje’s house, a ruin of mud, lay on one side of a large open space. On the right ran the slint, with it’s heavy border of willows and fruit trees. On the left lay several mud huts, and the plain rose gently to a conical Kopic about a half mile away. Right in the center of the space stood another ruin. The whole arrangement reminded me of the church square in Pretoria, with the old church in the middle. I came up to the ruined dwelling. It was little more than a heap of mud. A part of the walls had been covered over with corrugated iron. In the dooryard a few four o’clock seemed, with their cheerful colors to accentuate the atmosphere of ruin and deso-lation. Approaching the door I knocked and entering found Crouje, the “dark lurking Crouje, stern victor of Magersfornteiu”, seated at a table. On the opposite side sat a plain featured, poorly dressed woman, his wife. The room was dark, as there was only one window. The walls were of unplastered mud, and there was no floor. Bible mottoes in goudy colors were about the only decoration: “Leid ous met in verzenchung;” “God beholde te”; and another, the Dutch of which I forget- the verse “I shall be with you even to the end of the world.” Besides these there were a couple of enlarged photographs, , of Couje’s father and mother. The general bade me be seated and called for coffee. I told him who I was and where I was from. When the coffee came we went out into the dooryard where it was cooler. I remarked on the ruin everywhere. The general said he had suffered his full share. He had put in an application for £700, but did not know how much he would get. Crouje said he was sixty seven years old, and all his children were married and had children. There were five sons and two daughters. One son had died. The other four had fought thru the war. Three had been wounded and the fourth had received an injury at Dooenkop when Jameson was captured. The youngest son lived next to the old couple and the grandson was fond of coming to see the old people. The general took me next over the farm. The best part of the fruit orchard lay in the rear of the house, and was watered from the river by a stint. There were prickly pears and apples, border-ing the stint. Many of the apples had been cut down by the English to make room for a mud block house whose ruins were still to be seen. Beyond this line of fruit trees lay a vegetable garden containing “,” “Kurl,” “tomateu,” “waterlemon” and mealies. On the left was a grove of apricots and peaches, “graniteappel,” and figs. There had been a tall anidbroke of poplars behind the house, but this had been cut down. With great dexterity the general knocked down prickly pears and then pealed, them. He opened no less than a dozen, as fast as I could eat them. Then we went back across the stint, past the house, to the fields beyond. These contained “erdappel” and “potato” and the field was enclosed by a row of peach trees. Here were alos several cattle Kraals. The general had just bought sixteen calves for which he paid £15 apiece. He complained of the high prices- a milk cow cost £50 and sten, when they could be had at all, £22 a head. For corrugated iron he paid 11d a square foot. The Palmretfonteiu farm is part of a 12,000 morgue tract belonging at one time to Crouhe’s father-in-law. It was divided upon his death and the general came in for a share of 2,000 morgue. Besides this farm, however, he has another one nearby, one in Lichtenburg and one near Potehefstroom, so hi is the proprietor of 10,00 morgue. The general is a man of medium height and has a slight stoop about the shoulders. His dark hair curls closely about his , but the top of his head is bald. His face is sunburned and tanned and terminates in a grizzly beard. His eyes are shrewd, but do not impart that air of “lurking” which Conan Doyle is fond of attributing to Crouje. I had a smoke with the General, sitting in front of the house. I had a little stick of tobacco which Nordeen gave me and which he said he had carried thru the siege of Mafeking. I gave the general a piece of this, smoked a part in my big Dutch pipe, and the rest I put away as a family keepsake to be handed down to my children and grandchildren in due order. His voice is somewhat raucous and hoarse and he has a habit, when he wishes to emphasize what he says of grasping your arm. We returned to the ruined house and the general pulled out a “watermelon” from under the table. This he cut in sections, with the length of the fruit, and then cut off the ends. He offered me a piece and then called to the little boys outside, one of them his grandson, and gave them each a piece. He said he found St. Helena very irksome, which I can well believe, for he said he neither read nor employed him-self in making any of the objects over which other prisoners whiled away their time. All my conversation with him was in Dutch, as he professed not to understand English. Englishmen since have told me this was untrue and a precaution on his part against any possible misinterpretation of what he said. I do not know the truth of the matter, but can well appreciate the need of such precautions in a man of his position. A little after five o’clock, after spending two hours with the general, I bade him goodbye. He wished me a happy journey and expressed “Dank fur ten Bezeich.” I mounted my wheel, and as I did not care to repeat my Ventersdorp adventure, decided not to push on to Mafeking, but to go back to where the store was being built and ask for a night’s put up there. The jew said he had no accommodation, but the workingmen, two Englishmen, said I might sleep under the tarpaulin with them. they were both very hospitable and gave me a rough and ready welcome. We went down to the stint and had a good wash and then they went off to supper while I lay down under the tarpaulin. By the time they returned I was fast asleep, and did not wake until morning. They put a pillow under my head, but I never noticed it. One of the men had served in the B.B.P. and during the war in the D.L.H. Palmitfonteiu. Feb. 6. At five o’clock I was under weigh for Klerkedorp. According to directives, I made first for the conica Kopin about two miles away. Along the foot of this hill ran the road to the town, skirting a long, flat mountain which could be seen in the distance. In taking my wheel over the prairie I encountered again the miserable brown thorn and soon had my tires well studded. Near the Kopp I found a road boding in the direction of the Platteberg. I followed this for some distance to a place where it was intersected by another road which ran straight as an arrow at an angle of about 45°. It was not really one road, but four parallel roads, such as might have been built for the passage of a military column. I hesitated, wondering whether to take this road, and noticing some Kaffirs coming down from the Kopje I went back to get information. From what I could gather I was on the right track. The country in the neighborhood is undulating and in places broken. In the left lay the Platteberge- high, flat summits. On the right a line of trees marked the Schoon Sprint. About ten miles from Klerksdorp one scales quite an elevation. From the top of this chimneys and smoke of the Klerksdorp reductine works Pretoria- Rentenburg 60Rustenburg- Zeerust 80 Zeerust- Malmanie 18 Malmanie- Mafeking 22 Mafeking- Lichtenburg 40 Lichtenburg bentersdorp 42 Ventersdorp- Klerksdorp 40 302 are visible. You descend into a broad plain, and for eight miles pedal thru a comparatively flat country. A short distance from Klerksdorp a low range crosses the road. After climbing this the town lies before you- the usual line of corrugated iron, fringed with cypresses and willows. About half a mile to the right, under a Kopje, there is another group of buildings, some of brick, it appears to be a substantial suburb of the dorp. I pulled into the town, passing a corrugated iron blockhouse with sandbag breast works. I went at once to a hatie, had a drink of lime juice and then went to a barber for a shave. Thus ended my bicycle trip thru the Transvaal. It had taken twelve days and I had covered over three hundred miles. The districts traversed were some of the most beautiful of South Africa. In fact the scenery in the Rustenburg section, notable the view from Megatos  and from Woehunter’s Kop compared favorably with anything that can be offered anywhere. I had found a cordial reception from everyone except the hotel Kupers. These parasites should be tarred and feathered. Even the American jews treated me better. The Dutch were hospitable indeed, as is their reputation. Noone who has not gone thru these districts can know anything of the terrible ravages of the war. The conquest of these stubborn peoples was indeed a herculean task, as it must always be when a native fight for its convictions with a firm faith in the justice of their cause. What astonished me most; however, was the spirit of forgiveness and reconciliation everywhere manifested. Tho homes were destroyed and farms ravaged, I did not hear a sing complaint, nor an expression of bitterness from and of the farmers. No less than this stubborn bravery in war one must admire their Christian Sprit of forgiveness and their fortitude and all their misfortunes. The British nation can be proud to call these people fellow subjects, and their assimilation will add to the British character traits which could be obtained from no other source. In the afternoon I took a  across the river to the little “suburb” I had noticed t the west of the town. There was a gang of workmen busy repairing the road. I could get no definite information of the whereabouts of Delvet’s home. Some of the S.A.G. men said it was near Kroonstad, and that I would have a long and difficult ride down there. Van Alftheu had told me it was near Fredyort Road. But I had had enough of wheeling and decided to return to Pretoria by the quickest route. I took the train at 6 p.m. and knocked and banged around in a II class compartment for twelve hours before getting into Johannesburg. At Potchifstrrom a drunken German, and a soldier came aboard. The German was soon in the land of nod. Two Indians had also favored us with their presence. Johannesburg. Feb. 7- Arrived at 6 a.m. and got breakfast. Went then to the marked place and watched the course of the auction sales. Cucerne was selling at 4/- an armful. Potatoes were going at 22/- a bag of $60lb. Chickens brought from 5/- to 10/- apiece. Eggs went for 6/- a dozen. Turkeys cost 25/-. I was much amused at the auctioneer. He seemed to have an an- torreatic rat trap motion on his jaw and kept buzzing away: “Nine shillings I’ve got nine shillings I’ve got- anyone say ten- any-one say ten.” A young Jew boy was getting his first lesson in auctioning clothing. He was not very successful, but made a brave effort. Nobody seemed to care for his “lack serge trousers- alike on both sides- good enough to wear anywhere, no matter who you are.” There was also the cheap jewelry merchant, selling all sorts of gold watches, chains and diamond rings for a song. Went to the P.O. and swore at the registry clerk for not finding the parcel I had expected from New York. Then took the train for Pretoria. The approach to the capital is beautiful. The road winds in and out among the hills. Pretoria itself lies in a wide valley, and from the hills presents a beau-tiful picture of a quiet country town. It is surrounded by lines of Kopjes on all sides and military men have often expressed their surprise that the Boers did not attempt a stand here. It was over cautiousness on their part that led them to abandon the town- they were afraid of being shut in and obliged to suffer a siege. So long as they could range the veldt they were all right. I went at once to the Beeston Lodge where I found that John Wilson had gone to Bloemfonteiu. Pretoria. Feb. 8. Spent the day in trying to write articles. Pretoria. Feb. 9. Called on John Buchan and thanked him for the courtesy of the Repatriation people. Charter had arranged for me to go and see his brother on his farm at blaklaagte. Pretoria Feb. 10. Left at 6 am. for Springs. An officer of the Repatriation travelled in the same compartment. he was surprised he said at the friendly attitude of the Boers. An English soldier could travel all over the country, vertain of a welcome and of food and lodging at the hands of his late . He was going to make a horseback tour for purposes of inspection. He did not intend to take any provisions along, as he expected the farmers would supply all he needed. The recruiting of the National Scouts, he thought, was a mistake. it disgusted the better classes of the Dutch, who looked upon these mere as traitors, and the men themselves were cowardly, and could never be trusted in a difficulty. At springs we had breakfast and changed cars. A number of National Scouts, bound for Vlakfonteiu, were in the same compartment with myself. They were by  a prepossessing lot. At Vlakfonteiu they all got off and I had the car to myself. The country thru which we were passing was level or a little undulating, broken by isolated Koppies and occasionally by a chain of hills. It was covered with grass. Wherever there was water there was a luxuriant vegetation. At about 2 p.m. I arrived at Vlak-laagte. The station master told me that Mr. Charter was called away by his work, but would meet me on the road. Meanwhile he directed me how to find the farm and I set off over the plains. On all sides stretched the wide, undulating plains. On the west it was broken by a few isolated Kopjes. On the south a more continuous range shut it in. Nothing could be seen of farmhouses. The only house in sight was an abandoned blockhouse beside the railroad. Presently Mr. Charter came galloping to meet me and later on another piccamie came up with a horse for me. We mounted and rode towards the group of tents shantie and wagons which constituted his house and barnyard. His partner, Suttiffe, we met drowning a furrow three quarters of a mile long. This ground was being repaired for an avenue of trees, which seemed one of Charter’s ambitions. Charter gave me a good lunch of corned beef, potatoes and bread and butter, and then we mounted the horses to take a look over the fields. he had received eight hundred acres from the government, and two hundred and thirty he had turned from virgin soil into potato and corn fields. A hundred and fifty-nine acres he had put in potatoes, and he hoped to realize enough from them, at 22/- a bag to pay for his capital expenditure on account of farm machinery. Among the discouragements of veldt farming he mentioned the locusts. They had already visited him and had swept away thirty acres of mealies. Sutliffe, Charter and myself spent a most enjoyable evening swapping farms Charter especially was a boom companion. I amused the crowd by accounts of the Chicago livee. After many yarns about snakes we turned in, I sleeping on the ground. Charter’s Farm. Feb. 11. Spent the morning helping Charter put together a weighing machine. Took several pictures about the place. A cyclone had made a wreck of the corrugated iron shanty. Horse sickness had invaded the country and Charter had, at the time, a valuable man down with the disease. Sutteffe received notice that a farm of 400 acres had been assigned to him. Charter did not have much use for the Boer farmers. They were unprogressive and lazy. They never thought of turning over more than fifty- acres. They were surprised at the activity of the Englishmen, and wondered whether they were going to plow all the way to Standerton. The Boers realized that their energy meant the knell of their old, easy going life. At about one o’clock I said goodbye to Sutfithe and Charter and myself rode back t the station. I got into a compartment with two Scotchmen who had served in the war. They were bound for Pietermansburg. The At Mount Prospect Station O’neills farm, where the treaty of 1881 was signed, was pointed out to us. country became more broken as we neared Volksrust. The wall made all sorts of crazy curves to dodge cuttings. At Volkstrust the train was examined and customs officials inquired about dutiable articles. At the next station we saw several sheik policemen and knew that we were in Natal which is, in fact, no longer a white man’s country, but a dependency of India. Majuba Hill we skirted on the right. It towered above us in maestic grandeur, the summit wrapped in clouds. Way to the left stood the long flat summit of Porchmana Hill. “There’s where all the trouble began” the Scotchemn remarked. The country now was mountainous and rugged. Behind us lay Laing’s Nek which we had traversed thru a tunnel. A wagon road lay over the summit of the pass. In the distance the gathering of darkness was jagged with veldt fires. It was now too dark to see any-thing. At one place the train was compelled to reverse, a thing which I have seen on no other road. I was tired out and lay down to sleep. En route to Durban. Feb. 12. The morning revealed a country of bold mountains and deep valleys. Parts were heavily wooded, and all was in green. The crazy little narrow gauge road wound in and out and made all sorts of serpent-tine curves in its endeavors to get down the mountains to Maritzburg. It took about an hour to get down to the little town which lay deep in the valley. The country on all sides was beautiful indeed, tho little appeared to be under cultivation. Occasionally we passed a Kaffir Kraal and a scraggy field of mealies. As we went on banana and pine apple plantations because more frequent, and the long graceful bamboo had been introduced. Far away in the distance, across water and mud flats we saw the town of Durban with its fringe of masts and the blue sea beyond. Exactly at 11 am. the train pulled into the station and I went to Mrs. Saker’s boarding house. From there I went to the Bank and then to the office of the Bullard King steamers. I learned here that the Conqella was sailing on the 16th, tho it was doubtful if I could get accommodations in her. I walked way out west street to the beach. The windows blowing a gale from the rea. The photographer I was looking for was not there so I returned to town to inquire among the galleries and pharmacies. Finally gave Lennon one film to try, and another chemist also a film. The afternoon was spent in vain endeavors to write an article. Durban, Feb. 13. Spent the day in writing. In the evening strolled out to the esplanade. This borders the bay and offers a beautiful walk with a view of the inner arbor and the shipping. The sun sets over the water in a blaze of crimson. One evening while sitting by the coplanade watching the sunset a gentleman who happened to be beside me remarked on the beauties of the sky. We soon got into conversation in the course of which he told me he was a builder, but for a number of years past had been engaged in prospecting up country. He said the wealth of Natal had not been scratched- the range of hills that enclosed the hay on the South had been declared, by the government geologist, to be a mountain of coal. But the Natalians were too conservative to go to work to develop the country. There he told me a good deal about the life of the Zulus and other negro races in the interior. From what he said I should think that these people might well serve as models for other supposedly more civilized peoples. Boys and girls are kept in absolute innocence until marriage. As a result there is none of that prudery about them which one finds among Europeans. Boys and girls go swimming together in their native garb without a thought of wrong. The chiefs are very hospitable, and he had a very high opinion of the Zulus in general. They are a fine, manly race, muscular and robust, and with none of the meannesses of thought which are common among the lower classes- and the higher classes- of our own people. In fact, I myself had often noticed a finer texture in the character of these black men, who perhaps had never seen a book, than could be found in their so-called superiors among the white races. Culture is not gained from books- the seed must be born in a man. In Durban the negroes act as rickshaw boys and policemen. The latter are dressed in black with black helmets and as they are chosen for their physic-cal proportions, are a fine class of men. They go bare legged from the knee and barefooted. The rickshaw boys love to to top themselves up with all sorts of finery. They fasten horns or wings, or great balls of feathers to their heads. They are dressed in white, set off with red braid. Their legs are bare, but they usually powder them with flour until they are quite white and then dip a finger in water and trace some kind of design over them. They receive your fare with both patterns outstretched, and if it happens to be a generous bit one hand goes up- “inkos” they say- “may God repay you, I can’t.” The negroes are a jolly lot. With never a care to worry them, they go about their work laughing and chatting and singing. There is none of the sulkiness against a hard fate about them. They will heave away on a line to move a piece of freight. The rope parts, and with cries of laughter they go sprawling on the ground. Up they jump. This is some of Tiddle’s work. She thinks the pen is moving specially for her amusement. their white teeth showing thru their large, laughing months. While white men would be put out, they look upon the whole performance as a splendid lark. Durban. Feb. 14. Saw the first lot of photographs and was greatly disappointed. They were all spotted out in some  showed reticulating lines. Spent the day in getting off my mail. Sent an article to Zimmerman and one to S. D. Perry. Durban. Feb. 15. Spent the day in writing and thinking. in the evening strolled along the esplanade, and at eight o’clock went to the Wesleyan Church to find the source about over. They begin at seven in this seaport. Durban. Feb. 16. Went to the office of the Natal Line (Bullard King) but found that the Congell would probably have all her accommodations, including second clan, taken up by Chinese. Durban. Feb. 17. Called on Steel Murray & Co. and found out about the Clan Graham. She would probably go to Galle, sixty miles from Colombo. She might, how-ever, take a month to the trip- they could not say how long it might take her. She was expected to sail on Thursday next. I could, if I wished, go to her birth and take a look at her. This I did, and decided to go by the Clan Graham. Durban. Feb. 18. Spent the day trying to get the article for World’s Work started. had a long talk in the evening with a gentleman who occupied the room next to mine. He was a farmer, but had lost all his oxen by the pest, and not being able, on that account, to do farming, was piling a position in town. His family were living on the farm. He pronounced Durban an unhealthy place.- in which opinion I concurred. I had felt sick and out of sorts ever since. I reached Natal. The plague had invaded the country, and a number of cases had been reported. The first thing I saw upon alighting from the train in Durban was a lot of houses opposite the station being burnt down on account of plague infection. This disturbed me somewhat. I was under the weather all the time, and the prospect of being taken sick in a strange city filled me with dread. Mrs. Saker also pronounced a Durban a very unhealthy place. There is no drainage. Durban. Feb. 19- Called at Steel Murray & Co. and found that the clan Graham did not sail until the twenty first. Durban. Feb. 20. Spent the day in printing photos. I had a large member in the bath room washing out. Suddenly the lot disappeared. Investigation showed that a miserable little jew boy, whose hungry, predatory look I had already noticed with disgust, had appropriated the lot and carried them to his room. I created a disturbance. Later on the wretches’ father appeared on the scene and I demanded 15/- damages. Of course he argued against this, the outcome being that I accepted 7/6 in compensation for the damage that had been done. Durban. Feb. 21. Got thing’s ready for . Had a chase to find any laundry, which had not been returned. Mailed my letters and rode over to the steamer in a rickshaw. Durban is a trim little place. The struts are well kept, and the business, hotel and office buildings are the best in South Africa. This is especially true of the Marine Hotel. West Street is the principal thoroughfare. Behind the business portion of the town rise the heights of the Bored. The pest of the city, as of all South Africa, are the Asiatics which have been allowed to overrun it. They are of no value to the country economically, for they are not laborers. Their pursuit is that of peddlers,  small shopkeepers and house servants. Their uncleanly habits are responsible for the plagues and diseases which visit the country. There are only 60,000 whites in Natal as against some 700,000 of the jaundice kind. At once upon entering my cabin I made the acquaintance of Mr. J.B. Corless, of Pretoria, and engineer by profession. he was also bound for Galle. At about four o’clock the morning were cast loose. The clan Lindsey and the Highlander lay aside of the Graham. The former is a turret ship, her beam above the water line suddenly becoming very narrow. These ships were serving out into the bay to enable the Clan Graham to get out. As we steamed by the docks I noticed a miserable little steamer, the “” and I thanked my stars that I had not gone by the Conquella”, which belongs to the same line. We emerged from the boy into the artificial channel which leads out to the open sea. It much reminded me of the channel at Duluth. Outside we encountered a heavy swell. A number of ships were at anchor, and all were heaving and tossing at a great rate.En route to Galle. Feb. 22. All day we steamed in sight of the African coast. White patches of sand alternating with green spots of shrub made up the low hills of the coastline. made the acquaintance of captain Clark, a Scotchman and a most sociable gentleman. En route to Galle. Feb. 23. Early in the morning we came in sight of a  ship. A pilot came aboard and took us into the harbor. There were a good many sailing vessels at anchor and a couple of Portuguese river gunboats. The English river flows into the harbor, and some ships go up stream seven miles. The town of Laurences Margueg, with corrugated iron prominent, lies on the right hand shore as you enter the harbor. Prominent among the buildings is a little yellow fort on the foreshore. Behind the line of buildings rises a low range of hills, composed of a reddish soil. From a point on this range ther floated the stars and stripes. A Portuguese doctor came aboard to examine us. The crew was mustered on the hurricane deck for his inspection and then he took a look at the passengers. We all passed muster. Captain and myself went as love in the company’s boat. We landed at a warehouse and proceeded thence to a pestilential custom house, which smelt as tho all the plagues of Egypt had visited it. A lot of jaundiced Portuguese were sitting about. The captain transacted his business and then meeting McClain, we went down the principal street, coming to Woolf’s store. Woolf, I have forgotten to mention, had come up with us from Durban. He was an American and kept a store in the place. According to the custom of the sub continent, we all had a drink at Woolf’s bar, and then hired a rickshaw to go to the consulates. Two Kaffirs transported us up the hill, one pulling and the other pushing, both grunting as tho in momentary danger of a rupture. The captain dropped of at the British Consulate, and I went on to the American. The consul, Mr. Hollis, was out, but I met his sister. She had been out only two years, but could not stand the climate, a fact which was only too apparent. She had become acquainted with a number of Portuguese and admired them. The English, she said, took no pains to learn their language or to associate with them. As a