Milk and modernity: health and culinary heritage in South China. ; 牛奶與現代性: 一項南中國之健康、飲食文化遺產研究 ; CUHK electronic theses & dissertations collection ; Niu nai yu xian dai xing: yi xiang nan Zhongguo zhi jian kang, yin shi wen hua yi chan yan jiu

Abstract

這項研究是以民族誌描述方法,以南中國傳統的原生牛奶和現代的進口牛奶之生產及消費切入點,探討現代性的問題。對近代中國奶品需求急增的研究,大多解釋為現代西方食習慣之影響。我透過在順德及香港牛奶生產者及消費者日常生活的描述,試圖說明這食習慣的改變並非單是「西化」;相反,這其實是中國傳統的一種延續,再由殖民主義、資本主義,全球化,及中國建構新型國家這四種動力驅使下形成。而這四種動力又有賴市場 (本地及跨國的乳品公司、財金投資者、食品包裝生產商等) 、醫科專業人士及政府對 「健康」、「飲食文化遺產」等概念賦予新的社會價值。本文嘗試透過傳統和現代的牛奶之生產及消費,審視現代中國人對「健康」和「飲食文化遺產」的觀念和價值,在近年食品安全問題的陰霾下如何改變,這又如何反映中國在現代化和新型國家建構過程中的社會變遷,並探究有關身份認同,家庭角色與現代性的意涵。 ; This thesis is an ethnographic study of the change in the production and consumption of indigenous and imported cow milk in South China, particularly Shunde and Hong Kong, during the post-Mao period. Contrary to the popular view that cow milk consumption in China is a result of Western influence, the milk production and consumption in South China is actually a continuation of the Chinese tradition. This thesis shows that the popularity of milk consumption in Shunde and Hong Kong is driven by the forces of colonialism, globalization, capitalism, and modern state-building. Milk consumption in these two places is mainly promoted through three kinds of agents - the market (global and local milk companies, financial investors, food-packaging companies), medical professionals and the State. I illustrate how these forces and agents affect the classification, meanings and values of health and culinary heritage, and how this results in a reinvention of tradition and a change in the concept of morality, amidst concerns over food safety. By examining the transformation of the values associated with milk in the process of production and consumption, I show how health and culinary heritage become the contested ground in the reconfiguration of modern identity and social relationship, while complying with the vision of the government in the building of national pride. ; Detailed summary in vernacular field only. ; Mak, Sau Wa. ; Thesis (Ph.D.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 2012. ; Includes bibliographical references (leaves 247-269). ; Electronic reproduction. Hong Kong : Chinese University of Hong Kong, [2012] System requirements: Adobe Acrobat ...