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The time span covered by The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress starts in the nineteenth century, with the aftermath of the consumers' revolution, and reaches all the way to the present. The fashion and garment industries have been international from the beginning and, as such, this volume looks at the history of fashion and dress through the lenses of both international and global history. Because fashion is also a multifaceted subject with humanagency at its core, at the confluence of thematerial (fabrics, clothing, dyes, tools, and machines) and the immaterial (savoir-faire, identities, images, and brands), this volume adopts a transdisciplinary perspective, opening its pages to researchers from a variety of complementary fields. The chapters in this volume are organized based on their relationship to five fields of study: economics and commerce, politics, business, identities, and historical sources. Paying particular attention to change, the book goes beyond the great fashion capitals and well-known fashion centers and points to the broader geographies of fashion. Particular geographical areas focus on the emergence of new fashion systems and business models, whether they be in Sweden, Bangladesh, or Spain, or on the African continent, considered to be the "new frontier" of the industry. Covering myriad aspects of the subject this is the perfect companion for all those interested in history of dress and fashion in the modern world.

Exploring the rise of open scholarship in the digital era and its transformational impact on how knowledge is created, shared, and accessed, this open access book offers new insights on the history, development, and future directions of openness in the humanities and identifies key drivers, opportunities, and challenges. The concept of open research is reconfiguring scholarly communication across all disciplines, changing how understandings are produced through more accessible, participatory, ethical, and transparent approaches, reaching and involving far broader and more diverse publics. Considering multiple stakeholder perspectives, Arthur and Hearn argue that for the humanities to proactively contribute to open knowledge at the global scale, new ways of thinking are needed within every part of the system. In the open information economy, the humanities are on a trajectory following the sciences, but parts of the world are almost completely left out. A cultural shift is required for universities to unlock the powerful potential of humanities open scholarship. In this wide-ranging overview, the authors show why and how the global research community must work together for meaningful outcomes. Open scholarship has undergone a profound change since its beginnings from a call to action to an essential principle in research organizations internationally. However, the core impulse remains: to reshape the information environment and harness the world's knowledge for the greatest benefit of society. The eBook editions of this book are available open access under a CC BY-NC-ND 4.0 licence on bloomsburycollections.com. Open access was funded by Edith Cowan University.

Os edifícios desempenharam um papel importante na história soviética, desde o assalto ao Palácio de Inverno, em outubro de 1917, até à defesa da Casa Branca de Moscovo, durante a tentativa de golpe de estado de 1991. Nos anos 30, os «Velhos Bolcheviques» mudaram-se das «Casas dos Sovietes», antigos hotéis onde viviam de forma mais ou menos comunitária, para a «Casa do Governo», um grande edifício onde residiam em apartamentos de família, rodeados por guardas e criadas. E não foi só de edifícios realmente existentes que se fez a história da URSS, a qual se assemelhava a um grande apartamento comunitário. Esta coletânea inclui um artigo seminal sobre a União Soviética como uma federação multinacional, na qual diferentes repúblicas nacionais ocupavam quartos semiautónomos, seguindo-se um ensaio sobre a relação entre o amor jovem, os «Velhos Bolcheviques» e a domesticidade a que se viram condenados. Termina com uma conversa sobre as casas soviéticas, a historiografia sobre a URSS e o percurso do próprio Yuri Slezkine.

How did communication take place in the mission between people of different cultural backgrounds? What interests did Jesuits, indigenous people and Spaniards pursue in the Gran Chaco border region in the Jesuit province of Paraguay? What dependencies arose as a result? The Jesuit Florian Paucke (1719-1780) provided answers to these questions in his treatise »Hin und Her«, in which he wrote about his experiences in the Paraguay mission. Ulrich Stober is the first to make the manuscript and the missionary's more than 200 watercolor drawings comprehensively accessible. On this basis, linguistic and cultural translation processes are examined with the aid of numerous archive materials. The focus is on the missionaries' engagement with the indigenous language, diet and clothing as well as different ideas of gender roles. Even if Paucke adopted a genuinely European perspective in this respect, it is central that indigenous lifeworlds framed and shaped the questions of the European actors. - Wie fand Kommunikation in der Mission zwischen Menschen unterschiedlicher kultureller Prägung statt? Welche Interessen verfolgten Jesuiten, Indigene und Spanier_innen im Grenzgebiet Gran Chaco in der Jesuitenprovinz Paraguay? Welche Abhängigkeiten entstanden dabei? Antworten auf diese Fragen lieferte der Jesuit Florian Paucke (1719–1780) in seiner Abhandlung »Hin und Her«, in der er seine Erfahrungen in der Paraguay-Mission verarbeitete. Ulrich Stober erschließt erstmals grundlegend das Manuskript sowie die über 200 Aquarellzeichnungen des Missionars. Auf dieser Basis werden unter Heranziehung von zahlreichem Archivmaterial sprachliche und kulturelle Übersetzungsprozesse betrachtet. Im Zentrum steht dabei die Auseinandersetzung der Missionare mit der indigenen Sprache, Ernährung und Bekleidung sowie unterschiedlichen Vorstellungen von Geschlechterrollen. Auch wenn Paucke diesbezüglich eine genuin europäische Perspektive einnahm, ist zentral, dass indigene Lebenswelten die Fragen der europäischen Akteure rahmten und formten.

How did Asia come to be represented on European World maps? When and how did Asian Countries adopt a continental system for understanding the world? How did countries with disparate mapping traditions come to share a basic understanding and vision of the globe? This series of essays organized into sections on Jesuit Circuits of Communication and Publication; Jesuit World Maps in Chinese; Reverberations of Matteo Ricci's Maps in East Asia; and Reflections on the Curation of Cartographic Knowledge, go a long way toward answering these questions about the shaping of our modern understandings of the world.

This volume explores the production of knowledge of normativity in the age of early modern globalisation by looking at an extraordinarily pragmatic and normative book: Manual de Confessores, by the Spanish canon law professor Martín de Azpilcueta (1492-1586). Intertwining expertise, methods, and questions of legal history and book history, this book follows the actors and analyses the factors involved in the production, circulation, and use of the Manual, both in printed and manuscript forms, in the territories of the early modern Iberian Empires and of the Catholic Church. It convincingly illustrates the different dynamics related to the materiality of this object that contributed to "glocal" knowledge production. Contributors are: Samuel Barbosa, Manuela Bragagnolo, Christiane Birr, Luisa Stella de Oliveira Coutinho Silva, Byron Ellsworth Hamann, Idalia García Aguilar, Pedro Guibovich Pérez, Natalia Maillard Álvarez, César Manrique Figueroa, Stuart M. McManus, Yoshimi Orii, David Rex Galindo, Airton Ribeiro, and Pedro Rueda Ramírez.

This chapter explores the foundational idea of a performative approach: that our methods and concepts bring different research worlds into being. It has two different objectives. The first is to show that a performative approach can form the foundation for all research. Throughout this chapter, readers will recognize forms of data collection and data analysis that have been classified as postpositivist (questionnaires) or constructivist (interviews). A performative approach recognizes these different types of research yet views them all as acts that bring research worlds into being. The second objective is to show how a performative approach can form the foundation for mixed methods research. In contrast to a common view that integration in mixed methods research is about combining different realities into one coherent one, developing mixed methods theory in a performative approach is about integrating statements resulting from different worlds. These worlds themselves and their differences remain and are not resolved. Thus, in performative mixed methods research, deciding between two worlds that represent controversial statements, a common procedure in the sciences, hardly plays a role.

This book examines the processes of symbolic cultivation of identity promoted by Armenian cultural elites in the Bulgarian city of Plovdiv, focusing on the transmission of positive language ideologies and emotional elements related to collective memory. Drawing on extensive ethnographic fieldwork, interviews, and a range of primary materials, this work sheds light on the role of the Armenian alphabet in legitimizing collective visions of 'distinctiveness' and of the Armenian Genocide remembrance in shaping non-exclusive, transnational patterns of belonging. While contributing to the study of the complex dynamics and challenges of 'Armenian survival' across space and time, it situates the issue in the unique context of Bulgaria, analyzing, moreover, the impact of proximity to Turkey.

This book offers a defence of Wrightean epistemic entitlement, one of the most prominent approaches to hinge epistemology. It also systematically explores the connections between virtue epistemology and hinge epistemology.

According to hinge epistemology, any human belief set is built within and upon a framework of pre-evidential propositions – hinges – that cannot be justified. Epistemic entitlement argues that we are entitled to trust our hinges. But there remains a problem. Entitlement is inherently unconstrained and arbitrary: We can be entitled to any hinge proposition under the right circumstances. In this book, the author argues that we need a non-arbitrariness clause that protects entitlement from defeat. This clause, he argues, is to require epistemic virtue. Virtuous cognitive dispositions provide the non-arbitrariness clause that protects entitlement from defeat. The epistemic character of the agent who holds a particular set of hinges tells us something about the hinges' epistemic status. Conversely, epistemic virtues are cognitive dispositions and capacities that rely on hinge propositions – without trusting in some hinges, we would be unable to exercise our virtues.

Trust Responsibly will appeal to scholars and advanced students working on epistemology, Wittgenstein, and virtues.

The emergence and downfall of fascism and the Nazi regime in the mid-twentieth century mark the definitive decline of Europe's geopolitical hegemony. The end of the Second World War is the beginning of both decolonization processes and the founding of the United Nations as well as the Universal Declaration of Human Rights. In this context, we find a variety of philosophical interpretations on religious traditions, secular conceptualizations of reason and political theories. In and outside of Europe, philosophical and spiritual movements develop different political orientations, whereas fruitful dialogues between religious and secular philosophical positions emerge. In this volume, such positions and interactions are explored in an exemplary way.

Human thinking is interpreted as strongly entrenched in a dialectical process between a primordial familiarity with things and breaks in this familiarity. This can be seen both retrospectively in Plato's ambivalent examination of literacy and prospectively in Derrida's différance. The consequences of a dissolution of that process are pointed out in the example of posthumanism. Ausgehend von ausgewählten Themen der Cognitive Science wird ein Brückenschlag erprobt zu einer Sichtweise des menschlichen Denkens, wie sie sich aus Heideggers Interpretation der menschlichen Existenz als In-der-Welt-sein herauslesen lässt. Alles, was ist, erschließt sich dem Menschen vor dem Hintergrund einer Vertrautheit mit den Dingen. Diese Vertrautheit bedarf eines Weckrufs, den Heidegger an einem Prozess der Entheimatung diagnostiziert. Verortet man das menschliche Denken in dem unauflösbaren Spannungsfeld von Vertrautheit und Unvertrautheit, so wäre der Mensch nicht dazu in der Lage, einen Zustand zu beschreiben, der einem solchen Spannungsfeld noch vorausgeht. Dies lässt sich zum einen retrospektiv an Platons zwiespältiger Auseinandersetzung mit der Schrift und zum anderen prospektiv an Derridas différance aufzeigen. Auf die Folgen einer Auflösung jenes Spannungsfeldes, abzulesen an der Verdrängung des Todes, wird am Beispiel des Posthumanismus hingewiesen.

What can we learn about the nature of technology by studying practices of maintenance and repair? This volume addresses this question by bringing together scholarship from philosophers of technology working at the forefront of this emerging and exciting topic.
The chapters in this volume explore how attending to maintenance and repair can challenge and complement existing ways of thinking about technology focused on use and design and introduce new philosophical perspectives on the relationship between technology, time and human practice. They examine the significance of maintenance and repair practices at different scales in relation to a diverse range of philosophical traditions and a wide variety of technologies, from urban infrastructure such as bridges and buildings to data technologies such as servers and software systems. Together, the contributions highlight common themes in the philosophical study of maintenance, including the role of skill, the significance of social values and the potential of these practices to transform the technologies to which they are applied. By reflecting on the different ways in which we keep technologies going, from the devices we use in our homes to the large technical systems which surround us, this volume reveals the philosophical significance of practices of maintenance, not only as a source of new insights but also as a resource for enriching our understanding of a variety of existing topics in philosophy.
Maintenance and Philosophy of Technology will appeal to scholars and advanced students working in philosophy of technology, philosophy of engineering and science & technology studies.

Die Übertragungszeit, delay, von Impulsen und Signalen kann als flüchtiger Akteur einer Mediengeschichte verstanden werden. Delay-Medien wie die Sonographie, das Sonar oder Radar haben weitreichende Implikationen für aktuelle Medienkulturen. Dabei musste sich die Verdatung von Umwelten und Körpern als Funktion von Übertragungszeiten zunächst aber historisch beweisen. Christoph Borbach widmet sich in neun Fallgeschichten frühen Temporalisierungen von Räumen in Kontexten von u.a. Medizin, Post, Militär und Computertechnik. Innovativ beleuchtet er so die Medienkultur-, Wissens- und Praxisgeschichte des Akteurs Delay - von ersten Sensormedien im 19. Jahrhundert bis hin zu Infrastrukturen der Verarbeitung von Big Data in Echtzeit.

This open access book sheds light on the term gongsheng/kyōsei, which is used in Chinese and Japanese to not only translate "symbiosis" in biology but also broadly deployed in philosophical, social and political contexts. It is a cross-contextual attempt to study the foundation of gongsheng/kyōsei as a philosophy of co-becoming, with exploration of its significance for thinking about the planetary challenges of our times.

Im »pöbel« oder »pofel« erkannten die Gelehrten bereits in der Frühen Neuzeit eine große Gefahr für das Gemeinwesen: für die Ordnung des Staates, aber auch für die Konventionen der frühneuzeitlichen Gelehrtenrepublik selbst. Durch Mangel an Arbeitsfleiß und Bildungstrieb stört der Pöbel seitdem immer wieder die soziale Ordnung. Wer oder was aber ist dieser Pöbel, von dem auch die Gegenwart wieder zu berichten weiß? Wer nannte wen wann und aus welchem Grund »Pöbel«? Roman Widders Studie verbindet Sozial-, Protest- und Literaturgeschichte, um ein fundiertes historisches Verständnis des Pöbels als Verwerfung arbeitender Armut zu entwickeln. Gerade für die Dichtkunst war der Pöbel ein omnipräsentes Problem, weil sich in ihm die Prekarisierung des literarischen Lebens artikulierte. Verstanden als Sprechakt und figura - als Sozial- und Redefigur gleichermaßen - fällt die Rede vom Pöbel nämlich auf den Sprecher zurück. Die Exklusion der Ehrlosen aus dem literarischen Gewerbe zeugt deshalb keineswegs von der elitären Autonomie der Urteilenden; sie soll vielmehr den schwankenden Wert der eigenen Rede steigern und bringt so die materiellen Voraussetzungen publizistischer Rede zur Sprache. Der Pöbel als Figur der Poetik korrespondiert dabei in der Frühen Neuzeit mit verwandten Figuren wie dem Pickelhering in der Komödie und dem Pikaro im Roman. In Texten u.a. von Opitz, Gryphius und Grimmelshausen zeigt Widder, dass der Pöbel als Übersetzungsfigur zwischen symbolischem und ökonomischem Kapital zu deuten ist. Dabei rückt besonders die massive Geldentwertung der sogenannten Kipper- und Wipperzeit um 1620 in den Blick, denn bereits hier ist die Überschneidung politischer und literarischer Exklusionsbestrebungen exemplarisch greifbar. Im Zuge der Formierung der bürgerlichen Gesellschaft zu Beginn des 18. Jahrhunderts kommt die Entwertung arbeitender Armut (labouring poor) als »Pöbel« schließlich zur vollen Entfaltung.