Heritage and food history: a critical assessment
The heritagization of food is based on cultural constructions creating or confirming identity markers. As the topic of heritage is one the most recently addressed within the wide bibliography of food studies, in particular food history has been analysing how societies and groups historically produced food heritages. This essay chooses the UNESCO international food labelling as a lens to analyse limits and critic points of the institutional heritagizazion. Firstly, the essay will examine the place-based identity paradigms involved in UNESCO institutional procedures and their articulation on different spatial levels, which tend to overlap and intersect each other in complex geographies. Secondly, it will analyse risks and problems of the constant recourse to past and history – related to issues of authenticity, tradition, nostalgia – aimed at legitimizing food heritage and identity claim. ; This is Chapter Ii of the book Food Heritage and Nationalism in Europe edited by Ilaria Porciani. This book is a result of the European Union- funded Horizon 2020 research project CoHERE (Critical Heritages: performing and representing identities in Europe). CoHERE received funding from the European Union's Horizon 2020 research and innovation programme under grant agreement no. 693289.