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The title of this paper is a reference to Dick Hebdige's famous book Subculture. The Meaning of Style, which was published in 1979 and became one of the most influential works to emerge from the legendary Birmingham Centre for Contemporary Cultural Studies (cccs). Hebdige's study explores the subversive implications of style in post-war British subcultures. The purpose of the following article is to apply his ideas on subculture and style to the discourse on fashion and Islam, with a particular focus on the debate over "modest fashion" in Turkey. Hebdige's approach will be utilized here principally in order to explore the representation of Islam in fashion and to critically reflect upon the ideological dimensions of "modest fashion". The present author argues that "modest fashion", as represented in everyday dress, fashion and lifestyle magazines, advertisements, and fashion shows, is exemplary of the breakdown of consensus among pious Muslims in present-day Turkish society. Furthermore, this article aims to strengthen and reflect upon the use of semiotics in the field of Islamic studies. It draws on data collected during the first international Istanbul Modest Fashion Week held in Istanbul's historic Haydarpaşa Train Station on 13 and 14 May 2016, as well as on journal articles, media contributions, fashion advertisements, and interviews conducted by the author with fashion designers, influencers, and the organizers of the Istanbul Modest Fashion Week.

"Die politischen Verhältnisse in der Türkei sind in Bewegung geraten: die Konflikte zwischen einer autoritären und religiösen Regierung einerseits und einer vielfältigen demokratischen Bewegung andererseits haben sich drastisch zugespitzt. Wohin die Entwicklung gehen wird, ist derzeit nicht eindeutig absehbar. Pierre Hecker analysiert die jüngsten Auseinandersetzungen in der Türkei." (Autorenreferat)

Investigates the relationship between culture, politics and power in present-day Turkey, from headscarves to heavy metal Provides an overview of the politics of culture in Turkey under the rule of the AKPAnalyses the success of authoritarian populism and the decline of democracy in Turkey from a cultural studies perspectiveBrings together 16 empirical studies that explore cultural aspects from heavy metal music to arthouse films, and from headscarf politics to national memorySince coming to power, President Erdoğan's Justice and Development Party (AKP) have focused on narrating their vision of a 'New Turkey' – an ideal that has resulted in the politicisation of popular culture and people's everyday lives. Exposing the strategy of Turkey's ruling elite to obtain cultural hegemony, this book examines the AKP's efforts to rewrite Turkish public memory by promoting its ideas through TV series, movies, propaganda videos, school curricula and material culture in urban public spaces. It also explores the tactics of cultural resistance developed by the politically weak to counter the ruling elite's dominant culture of pious conservatism

Investigates the relationship between culture, politics and power in present-day Turkey, from headscarves to heavy metal Provides an overview of the politics of culture in Turkey under the rule of the AKPAnalyses the success of authoritarian populism and the decline of democracy in Turkey from a cultural studies perspectiveBrings together 16 empirical studies that explore cultural aspects from heavy metal music to arthouse films, and from headscarf politics to national memorySince coming to power, President Erdoğan's Justice and Development Party (AKP) have focused on narrating their vision of a 'New Turkey' – an ideal that has resulted in the politicisation of popular culture and people's everyday lives. Exposing the strategy of Turkey's ruling elite to obtain cultural hegemony, this book examines the AKP's efforts to rewrite Turkish public memory by promoting its ideas through TV series, movies, propaganda videos, school curricula and material culture in urban public spaces. It also explores the tactics of cultural resistance developed by the politically weak to counter the ruling elite's dominant culture of pious conservatism