Suchergebnisse

Abstract
The contribution of Viennese Jews to the cultural milieu of the Austrian capital at the fin de siècle is undisputed. Jewish women and men contributed to the social artistic, economic and philosophical centrality of Viennese culture. But what did Jewish urban, middle-class men wear and in what ways was it significant. This article examines the sartorial habits of two Viennese cultural and literary icons, Stefan Zweig (1881–1942) and Peter Altenberg (1859–1919), and considers how men's fashions in Vienna during the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries both facilitated and negated the assimilatory aspirations of the city's middle-class Jewish population. A comparison of visual and literary accounts of Jewish acculturation and assimilation will offer a further understanding of the manifestation of visual 'Jewishness' and the heterogeneous Jewish identities present in Vienna during the period.

The editorial introduces a Special Issue of Critical Studies in Men's Fashion, 'Fashion in the Age of AIDS'. Outlining the devastating impact of the emergence of Acquired Immunodeficiency Syndrome (AIDS) from the 1980s in the West on mainly gay men and minorities, the editors provide their rationale and introduce the contributors. As well as its effects on the fashion and styling industries, creating a 'lost' or 'missing' generation, AIDS and its rhetoric saw an array of new styles and looks developed by and for LGBTQI peoples in response to the crisis. Authors cover areas as diverse as fashion and music, fashion and intersectional homophobia, the fashion industry's response to AIDS, 'passing' as straight, and fashion and body modification.