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"From sweatshops to fur farming, from polluting chemicals to painful garments, the fashion industry is associated with activities which have had devastating effects on workers, consumers, and the natural world. This ground-breaking volume provides a framework for examining the ethical, social, and environmental dangers that arise as fashion products are designed, manufactured, distributed and sold within retail outlets, before being consumed and disposed of. Encompassing the cultural, psychological and physiological aspects of fashion, it offers a comprehensive exploration of the hazards of a global industry. Drawing together an international team of leading textile and apparel experts, The Dangers of Fashion presents original perspectives on a wide range of topics from piracy and counterfeiting to human trafficking; from the effects of globalization on local industry to the peer pressure that governs contemporary ideals of beauty. Rooted in research into industry practices, it discusses innovative solutions - both potential and existing - to fashion's dangers and moral dilemmas from the viewpoint of individuals, companies, societies, and the global community"--

Abstract

Abstract
Dorothy Shaver is documented as the first female President of a major American retail firm and yet Hortense Odlum at Bonwit Teller (1934–1940) preceded her by ten years. Odlum came to position as President of Bonwit Teller when the country was in the throes of the Great Depression. With no work experience and little education, Odlum approached the business from the only perspective she knew, that of a customer who appreciated style, service and practicality. Through examination of Odlum's autobiography, newspaper and fashion reports, and other primary source material, it becomes clear how Odlum not only improved business, but more than doubled the volume at Bonwit Teller. Some of her strategies included pricing diversification, and the creation of departments for specific target markets including men and women in college. She also established a Consumer's Advisory Committee to better capture the female voices of shoppers. Odlum's approach pioneered the creation of a store by a woman for women.

Abstract
Mildred Custin served as the President of New York City-based retailer Bonwit Teller from 1965 to 1970. The 1960s was a period of rapid cultural change fuelled by multiple social paradigm shifts related to concepts of gender, race, sexuality and age. Fashion of the era reflected these changing ideals. During this time, Custin introduced European designers such as Pierre Cardin and André Courrèges to the American market. In the Unites States she placed the first major order of up-and-coming designer Calvin Klein. The introduction of menswear under Custin's leadership to Bonwit's previously women's only assortment fuelled the spread of the Peacock Revolution in the United States. As a woman with a gentle voice but clear fashion vision, she embraced styles of the era and successfully led Bonwit Teller through a turbulent period of social history.

PurposeThis study aims to examine the characteristics of ethnographic textile collectors and compare them with the literature regarding fair trade consumers to explore the existence of a possible consumption constellation between collecting and fair trade purchasing.Design/methodology/approachPurposive sampling was used for the study as it maximized the attainment of significant information related to ethnographic textile collecting. Qualitative data from ethnographic textile collectors (n=12) were collected.FindingsResults suggested that collectors were interested in purchasing high quality, authentic products that expressed their identity and individuality. These are similarities shared with fair trade consumers. Furthermore, collectors' motives to help artisans overcome poverty were evident; a similar value guides fair trade purchasing.Research limitations/implicationsThe predominantly female sample of academics may not be representative of the average ethnographic textile collector.Practical implicationsUnderstanding the multiplicity of products and activities representative of one consumer group's lifestyle is beneficial to both for‐profit and non‐profit organizations in terms of product promotion or donation solicitation. The understanding of these consumers' lifestyle can, in turn, help marketers design and implement effective advertising and fundraising campaigns that improve the livelihood and wellbeing of excluded and disadvantaged people in developing countries.Originality/valueThe paper furthers the knowledge base and understanding of these different consumer segments by providing evidence of a consumption constellation between ethnographic textile collectors and fair trade consumers.

PurposeThe purpose of this study is to measure undergraduate students' ethical and materialistic values, and the correlation of these variables with the purchase of counterfeit apparel products.Design/methodology/approachStudents (n=741) were surveyed via an online method. Instrument items from the Muncy‐Vitell consumer ethics scale and the values‐oriented materialism scale ascertained students' values of ethics and materialism. Previous purchasing behavior of counterfeit apparel goods was also assessed.FindingsA significant relationship between materialism and ethics was found. Those participants who reported to be more ethical in their decision making were those that held less materialistic values. Ethics and materialism were also significantly related to the purchase behavior of counterfeit apparel goods. Consumers holding stronger ethical values and who were less materialistic were less likely to report purchasing counterfeit apparel products.Practical implicationsFindings are useful in understanding the values orientation of consumers who purchase counterfeit apparel goods. Segmenting consumer groups of varying ethical beliefs and materialistic tendencies and targeting them through appropriate marketing messages could be successful in encouraging greater socially responsible purchase behavior.Originality/valueSince purchasing counterfeit products is specifically a consumption activity related to brand prestige and image, it seems plausible that a relationship between an individual's materialistic values and purchase behavior of counterfeit apparel goods could exist. Moreover, given previous findings that more materialistic consumers also tend to be less ethically‐minded, exploring the relationship between consumers' ethical perceptions and their purchase behavior of counterfeit products is useful.