Conclusion: careful with heritage
Food inventories created from below, being less rigid and prescriptive, may enhance the perception of food as an immaterial heritage that is decisive for collective identity, but also syncretistic, elastic, mobile, open to exchange, happenstance and alteration. Perhaps this road is better than the political way of certifying, which anchors the gastronomic heritage to fixed identities, "cultures" dangerously bound up with ethnic belonging which itself is seen as static and not – as is the case – the upshot of constantly changing events and stories. The doubt is whether heritage conservation in a museum framework may actually be breeding new intolerance and new nationalism, perhaps under a different name. That is why it so important to steer all discussion of origins, traditions and heritage onto a time and not space dimension, history not geography. ; This is the final chapter odf the book Food Heritage and Nationalism in Europe edited by Ilaria Porciani.