Suchergebnisse

As fashion weeks são rituais em que participam os membros de uma comunidade a qual podemos chamar, tendo a proposta de Becker (1982) como referência, o "mundo da moda". Embora conectado com uma comunidade específica, esse ritual impacta a vida social das cidades, transmutando os seus espaços. Este texto começa por fazer, tendo por base o caso de Paris, um breve historial do percurso de dispersão pelo espaço da cidade que os desfiles de moda fizeram desde o século XIX até a atualidade, associando esse percurso às principais modificações de caráter social e performativo, que esses eventos foram sofrendo. Em um segundo momento, o texto centra-se na cidade de Lisboa, que é tomada como um estudo de caso revelador, apesar das suas particularidades e das dinâmicas universais do ritual das fashion weeks.

Palavras-chaves: Fashion Weeks. Mundo da Moda. Ritual. Performance. Espaço. Cultura Material. Vestir.

Abstract
The fashion weeks are rituals that participates members of a community we can call, having Becker's (1982) proposal as a reference, the "world of fashion". Although connected to a specific community, this ritual impacts the social life of cities, transmuting their spaces. This text begins by making, based on the case of Paris, a brief history of the route of dispersion throughout the city that fashion shows have made from the 19th century to the present day, associating this route with the main changes of social and performative character, that these events suffered. In a second moment, the text focuses on the city of Lisbon, which is taken as a revealing case study, despite its particularities, the universal dynamics of the fashion weeks ritual.
Keywords: Fashion Weeks. World of Fashion. Ritual. Performance. Space. Material Culture. Dress.

Le texte rend compte d'une ethnographie réalisée au Brésil avec trois familles portugaises dont le parcours de vie transcontinental est passé par le Portugal, le Mozambique et le Brésil. Il montre que les objets qui ont accompagné les migrations de ces familles font partie de ce que Jean Remy (2015) désigne par la « matérialité du social ». Ces objets ont servi à reproduire, dans les nouvelles maisons, les habitudes incorporées dans les maisons du passé, à soutenir les processus de construction de la mémoire familiale et à consolider la reconstruction d'une position de classe. Ils ont été la matérialité du déroulement de leurs vies.

International audience ; Focused on a case study in Macao, this paper aims to interpret the complex relations between the processes of construction/negotiation of cultural identities, the processes of touristification and those of the transformation of the territory. In the wake of the reintegration of Macao in the Popular Republic of China's political sphere, several mechanisms of objectification and commoditization of cultural elements constitutive of Macaoians' identity –the Eurasian community of Macao– were set in place to give birth, simultaneously, to a new cultural identity of the territory and to a branding positioned within the global touristic market. The cultural dynamics associated with tourism combine representations that pertain to the concepts of authenticity and hyperreality. The urban territories that became touristic sites are themselves often shaped by these two concepts. This is what I will try to demonstrate in the case of Macao. ; Focalisé sur l'étude de cas de Macao, cette communication essaie d'interpréter les relations complexes qui s'établissent entre les processus de construction/négociation des identités culturelles, les processus de touristification et les processus de transformation du territoire. Après la réintégration de Macao dans l'espace politique de la République populaire de Chine, des mécanismes d'objectification et de marchandisation d'éléments culturels constitutifs de l'identité ethnique des Macanéens – la communauté eurasiatique de Macao – ont été mis en oeuvre pour donner naissance, en même temps, à une nouvelle identité culturelle du territoire et à une image de marque (branding) qui le place à l'intérieur du marché touristique global. Les dynamiques culturelles associées au tourisme intègrent des représentations qui convoquent, très souvent, les concepts d'authenticité et d'hyperréalité. Les territoires urbains devenus des pôles touristiques sont eux aussi souvent marqués par ces deux concepts. C'est, comme j'essaierai de montrer, le cas de Macao.

Os espaços públicos das cidades, sobretudo os daquelas para onde converge o turismo mundial, são sujeitos a múltiplos mecanismos de representação que os fragmentam e, em última análise, os reduzem a imagens idealizadas. Os autores dessas imagens, e dos seus sentidos, são muito diversificados, mas os profissionais ligados ao turismo (agências de viagem, revistas turísticas, documentaristas, etc.) e as instâncias públicas interessadas na divulgação turística das cidades (câmaras municipais, governos regionais, etc.) são, sem dúvida, duas das instâncias que mais operam no interior desses processos complexos de representação (e de mercadorização) do espaço das cidades. E se esses processos se associam hoje à relação feliz que milhões de pessoas estabelecem com as cidades no mundo inteiro, é no entanto necessário não esquecer que parte dessas paisagens são cuidadosamente construídas de forma, por um lado, a obliterar a lamentável realidade do urbanismo envolvente e, por outro, a delas excluir todos aqueles que inviabilizam a dinâmica cultural de construção de paisagens. We consider that the public spaces of cities, especially those which converge to the global tourism, are subject to multiple mechanisms of representation that fragment and, ultimately, reduce its idealized images. The authors of these images, and their senses are very diverse, but the professionals linked to tourism (travel agencies, tourist magazines, documentaries, etc.) and the government stakeholders interested in the dissemination of tourist cities (municipalities, regional governments, etc.) are undoubtedly two of the actors that operate within these more complex processes of representation of all urban space. And if these processes are associated today with the happy relationship that millions of people have with cities worldwide, it is however necessary not to forget that part of these landscapes are carefully constructed in a way, on one hand, to obliterate the unfortunate reality of the urban environment and, secondly, to delete all those that prevent the construction of dynamic cultural landscapes.