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AbstractIncreased negative media attention has focused on the environmental impacts the fashion industry has on the natural environment, thereby calling for solutions, focused on clothing purchase, use and end‐of‐life treatment. This research explores the relationship between consumers and their clothing consumption (from purchase through to disposal), through the lens of life histories, and thus exploring what impacts on end‐of‐life clothes treatment. The novelty of this study lies within connecting fashion consumption practices with the self‐concept in the context of clothing consumption (pre‐ purchase through to disposal), from an individual's life history perspective. This qualitative enquiry utilised life histories, thereby conducting 20 in‐depth semi‐structured interviews that were analysed through a grounded approach. Findings indicate that fashion consumption is heavily influenced by an individual's "self", in that those that have a positive perception of themselves have reduced shopping habits, whilst those with a negative perception increase them. Our results show that our participants go through various consumption practices (hoarder, oniomaniac, and "fashionista") that co‐exist within them and are influenced by the individual's self. Our study calls for more intergenerational research exploring fashion consumption and disposal.

STEM careers; girls; preteen; YA; mathlete; fashionista; math; middle school

"Konsumfashionista ist eine Gegenposition zum Fashion Victim. Konsumfashionista klagt nicht über verführte Opfer, sondern sucht Strategien der Rückeroberung und spürt aktive Formen von ästhetischen Widerständen auf in Feldern wie Mode, Makerszene, Mayday Ravekultur oder Kunst. Konsumfashionista verfolgt Ästhetiken des Konsums, verstanden als Aneignung von Konsumobjekten, als Kampfansage an den Ausschluss eines negativ besetzten Käuflichen. 'Fashionista' spielt auch auf den zuweilen totalitären Charakter von Mode an und meint zugleich Wehrhaftigkeit eines mitgestaltenden Konsumenten. Grundlagenforschungen und Grundsatzüberlegungen von Heinz Drügh, Moritz Bassler, Christina von Braun, Thomas Hecken, Birgit Richard u.a. zu Populärkulturen und Alltag, Mode, Design, Kunst beschäftigen sich mit T-Shirts, Primark, Videoformat Vine, Plattencovern, Markenlogos, Haarspülungen sowie Geld und Schmuck"--Back cover

Ein tolles Buch für Crafistas (eine Wortschöpfung aus "craft", also "Handarbeiten", und "fashionista", d.h. "Modebegeisterte"). 25 DIY-Projekte stellt die Autorin vor (s. auch www.psmadethis.com). Es geht um Schmuck, Mode, Accessoires. Wie z.B. die Kette aus einer schwarzen Feinstrumpfhose und bunten Flummis oder die Ohrringe aus Rohrgeflecht aus dem Baumarkt. Domesek veredelt Absätze mit glitzernden Strassbändern, kreiert eine Messenger-Bag aus alten Jeans oder hübscht einen langweiligen Haarreif mit Eisschirmchen zum hippen Teil auf. Mit etwas Farbe und goldenen Knöpfen wird aus einem einfachen weissen T-Shirt ein Matrosenshirt und Kaffee-Filter machen aus einem schlichten, schwarzen Top ein witziges Rüschen-Top. Das Tolle daran: Man braucht kaum Werkzeug, schon gar keine Nähmaschine. Schere, Heissklebepistole, Zange, Klebeband - das ist schon die halbe Miete. Die Anleitungen sind leicht verständlich, häufig reichen schon die Fotos aus. Speziell junges Publikum wird begeistert sein von den modischen Hinguckern. Bei entsprechender Klientel neben "Old Stuff, new Fashion" (ID-A 48/11) gern empfohlen. (2)

Intro -- Turning 40 Is Fabulous -- About the Author -- Dedication -- Copyright Information © -- Acknowledgment -- Introduction -- 1. Brain Fog -- More Brain Fog -- 2. Forgetfulness -- 3. Lists -- 4. Hot Flashes -- 5. Night Sweats -- 6. Hair Loss and Gain -- 7. Makeup -- 8. Fashion -- 9. Fashionista -- 10. Appetite Changes -- 11. Body Changes -- 12. Bladder Control -- 13. Loss of Gravity -- 14. Dry Skin -- 15. Itchy Ears -- 16. Exercising Is Overrated -- 17. Walking on Stairs -- 18. Dating -- 19. Single and Happy -- 20. Millennials -- 21. Cell Phones -- 22. Texting Just a Phase -- 23. Social Media -- 24. Wordplay -- 25. Midlife Crisis in Your Forties -- 26. Leap of Faith -- 27. Yoga Is Fun -- 28. Busiest Shopping Day -- 29. Tips for the Next Decade -- 31. Pins and Passwords -- 32. Yoga the Sequel -- Conclusion.

""One of the best [books] I've read about the individuals who make up a country that is all too often regarded as a monolith." -Jonathan Fenby, Financial Times If China will rule the world one day, who will rule China? There are more than 320 million Chinese between the ages of sixteen and thirty. Children of the one-child policy, born after Mao, with no memory of the Tiananmen Square massacre, they are the first net native generation to come of age in a market-driven, more international China. Their experiences and aspirations were formed in a radically different country from the one that shaped their elders, and their lives will decide the future of their nation and its place in the world. Wish Lanterns offers a deep dive into the life stories of six young Chinese. Dahai is a military child, netizen, and self-styled loser. Xiaoxiao is a hipster from the freezing north. "Fred," born on the tropical southern island of Hainan, is the daughter of a Party official, while Lucifer is a would-be international rock star. Snail is a country boy and Internet gaming addict, and Mia is a fashionista rebel from far west Xinjiang. Following them as they grow up, go to college, find work and love, all the while navigating the pressure of their parents and society, Wish Lanterns paints a vivid portrait of Chinese youth culture and of a millennial generation whose struggles and dreams reflect the larger issues confronting China today"--

This article provides an overview of the numerous problems associated with the analysis of costume in the visual arts of traditional societies. Most of them are often underestimated. Among the most serious difficulties are those associated with the schematic and fragmented images and the desire to present a complete reconstruction of the costume. Problems in interpretation are created by the poses of the characters, the use of old iconography (including foreign ones), and the dominance of stereotyped images of foreigners. In ancient art, the principle of verismo is very important, associated with emphasizing the socially significant elements of the costume. Most often, the initiators of costume innovations were the rulers, as well as their favorites and other people in their environment. The motives behind the behavior of "fashionista" rulers are usually unclear. Each group of the most popular subjects is associated with different sets, costume types and different symbolic interpretations. The article discusses its specificity with different ways of interpreting images – glorification, methods of individualizing the appearance of the same type of characters in groups, etc. Many problems are associated with the adequacy of the reproduction of colors, with the level of its conventionality, with the degree of its preservation, with the capabilities of masters, and with the interpretation of materials from which the elements of the costume were made. It is difficult to interpret the perception in specific societies of archaic elements of cut and silhouette, to clarify the costume of some seasons of the year. With the dominance of gala and ceremonial costume, they can't be often distinguished.

Kekayaan produk budaya Indonesia beserta keyakinannya telah menjadi keunggulan yang tidak terbantahkan lagi. Baik berupa keragaman agama, keragaman busana, keragaman batik, keragaman arsitektur, berserta keragaman adat istiadat yang penuh dengan karakteristik keunikan. Busana wanita Indonesia, terutama variasi jenis busana batik telah mampu mengukir prestasi tinggi sebagai kekayaan yang luar biasa adiluhung sehingga dunia internasional melalui lembaga UNESCO mengakui sebagai produktakbenda warisan dunia asal Indonesia. Maka pada agenda tahunan Seminar Nasional bidang Busana, Rias dan Boga pada kesempatan ini penulis berusaha mencari dan mengungkapkan kemungkinan Indonesia ke depan menjadi mahnet baru di jagat fashionista. Strategi untuk membedah fenomena benang merah eksistensi Indonesia sebagai pusat trend fashion dunia melalui pendekatan estetika yang dipadukan dengan meminjam beberapa cabang ilmu lain secara mikro, seperti dengan ilmu sosiologi, politik dan sejarah. Mikro historis politik, dan sosiologis dipakai dalam melacak aspek kesejarahan perkembangan manusia beserta budaya secara lebih singkat, sederhana, namun tetap padat sehingga dapat menggambarkan benang ketergayutan antara produk budaya dengan keberadaan manusia sebagai pendukung perkembangan kebudayaan. Sedangkan pendekatan estetika dipakai untuk mengamati secara visual berbagai produk budaya terutama busana batik sehingga dapat memberikan interpretasi. Berdasarkan pengkajian dapat disimpulkan bahwa Indonesia ke depan dapat menguasai dan menjadi pusat trend fashion dunia jika bentuk pengembangan produk desainnya lebih vokus ke arah pembuatan busana muslimah dengan memilih tekstil batik sebagai bahan baku produk fashionya. Kemungkinan Indonesia sebagai pusat trend fashion dunia dimungkinan oleh berbagai factor pendukung, seperti: 1) Pertumbuhan perkembangan Agama Islam dunia yang semakin besar, terutama belahan bumi bagian barat, seperti di Negara Inggris, Perancis, dan Amerika. 2) Pengukuhan UNESCO bahwa batik Indonesia sebagai bendatakbentuk warisan dunia asal Indonesia. 3) SDM yang melimpah ditandai dengan banyaknya desainer bidang perancangan busana muslimah.Kata kunci: Indonesia, Batik Muslimah, Trend Fashion Dunia

Introduction -- Rebecca C. Hains & Nancy A. Jennings.-SECTION ONE: TOY TRENDS -- 1. Toying with Guns: A Critical Analysis of Play Firearms -- Jody Lynée Madeira, Professor of Law and Louis F Niezer Faculty Fellow, Indiana University Maurer School of Law -- 2. Reclaiming the Livingroom: The Play Value of Grotesque Toys -- Tyler Brunette, Ph.D. student, University of Pittsburgh, the Department of Communication -- 3. Playing with Minimalism: The Promotion of High-End Toys and Childhood Simplicity -- Spring-Serenity Duvall, Associate Professor of Communication, Salem College -- 4. Imported Toys in Indonesia: Parental Consumer Literacy, Purchase Decisions, and Globalization -- Rani Chandra Oktaviani and Fadlin Nur Ichwan, Lecturers, The London School of Public Relations, Jakarta -- SECTION TWO: TOY MARKETING -- 5. Totally Toyetic -- Jonathon Lundy, Ph.D. Candidate, Drexel University -- 6. Unwrapping Toy TV: YouTube Kids and the role of Toy Unboxing and Play Videos -- Kyra Hunting, Assistant Professor, Media Arts and Studies, The University of Kentucky -- 7. Disney Toy Marketing Addresses Latina/os -- Diana Leon-Boys and Angharad N. Valdivia, Research Professor, Institute of Communications Research, University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign -- 8. A Toy for Thoughtful Parents: Explaining the Rhetorical Origins of the American Public's Love for LEGO -- Lauren DeLaCruz, Ph.D. Candidate, Rhetoric and Public Culture, Northwestern University -- SECTION THREE: TOYS AND GENDER -- 9. "Smart is the New Cool": Project MC2 and the Marketing of STEM Lifestyles to Tween Girls -- Avi Santo, Chair, Department of Communications & Theater Arts, Old Dominion University -- 10. Hacking Girl Power: GoldieBlox and Material Rhetoric -- Margeaux Lippman Hoskins, Lecturer, Dutchess Community College, Poughkeepsie, NY -- 11. Toy discourses and gendered roles in "the most gender equal country in the world": A critical cultural analysis of toy catalogues from 2011-2018 -- Trine Kvidal-Røvik, Associate Professor, Department -- Tourism and Northern Studies, The Arctic University of Norway -- 12. American Girl and the Construction of Masculinity -- Emilie Zaslow, Associate Professor, Pace University, New York -- 13. The Politics of Barbie's Curvy New Body: Marketing Mattel's "Fashionista" Line -- Rebecca Hains, Professor of Media and Communication, Salem State University.

Primera Parte - Glosas sobre La ansiedad de ser puertorriqueño -- ¿Sociedad o civilización del espectáculo? -- La ansiedad de la falacia de identidad -- La cofradía de los comillados, la fraternidad del oxímoron : 1. El etnos del espectáculo 2. Modernidad líquida (da) 3. El loser-winner -- Touristicus paradigma - La inmortalidad pueril -- Segunda Parte - Agonía y conversión de la intelligentsia -- Parábolas de moralistas, bestiario de Marx -- Caricaturas teóricas : 1. El procónsul A. La fábula 2. El dandi posmoderno 3. El fanática 4. El cínico : A. El duelo entre el cínico y el ironista -- De la agonía y la convención -- Vidas ejemplares : 1. El paciente febril 2. El atonement del ego 3. La mala yerba de Popeye 4. Mr. Olympia: no game no pain 5. El moribundoante la mortalidad 6. El chofer que hay en el niño 7. La hermafrodita 8. El prestigio del mago 9. El verdugo deudor del Divino -- La conditio humana -- El punto ciego de toda cooptación -- Menú de la agonía y la convención en la intelligentsia : 1. De la mudanza del adefesio 2. Angelus novus 3. Agonía paradigmática --Hambre proletaria, apetito pequeño burgués -- El horror del comunismo -- Hándicaps y cayados en la fallida conversión del Concordato : 1. La nación lúdica 2. El display del pauper 3. Las tematizaciones light 4. El name dropping -- Homo academicus militants a distancia -- ¿Fashionista, la intelectualidad radical? : 1. El tumbao del académico hipocorrecto 2. La deseabilidad del beautyen el Concordato -- La filia de Ixodes Ricinus en el hábitus del homo academicus militants -- Las flexiones de gradaciones mediocres: 80 grados a lo sumo -- Los misterios de la agonía sin conversión del Concordato : 1. El loser-winner 2. El pudenda origo del anti-americanismo 3. El perdón de la razón extrema : A.El Correcaminos, la ratio y el Coyote B. El currículo del resentimiento C. Maestro, me merezco la Kalashnikov D. La esquizofrenia de los extremos E. De la polizeiwissenschaft en el Corcordato