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RECODING JEWELLERY: identity, body, survival addresses a central problem facing contemporary jewellery practice: through the course of the Contemporary Jewellery Movement, the potential of the jewellery-object to mediate intricate social relationships has become constrained. This is in part due to a singular focus of ideas in the field, and in part due to the developmental trajectory of contemporary jewellery networks. Caught up in the art-craft debate, contemporary jewellery missed the potentials in theory for developing a critical voice. This was not helped by the fact that academic discourse (philosophical, social, sexual, political) has largely neglected the significances of jewellery. The aim in this thesis is to negotiate this mutual neglect - or 'double gap' - by finding connections between theory and jewellery in practice. Jewellery involves complex interactions between makers, objects, wearers and audiences within social networks. Possessing a distinct set of codes enlivened by its relationship to the body, jewellery is a way of thinking and connecting which is strongly embedded in the activities of managing identity that define cultures and epochs. In the process, the instinct for adornment becomes an integral means of survival. This thesis draws on modern and postmodern theory, as well as art and jewellery practices, to examine contemporary shifts in thinking about identity, the body and reproduction. Through the three main chapters of this thesis I endeavour to: (i) provide an informed interpretation of the internal and external pressures that have defined contemporary jewellery practice over time; (ii) introduce relevant examples of my own work, and seek ways to move beyond the limitations of my own practice; and (iii) advocate new ways of thinking about contemporary jewellery that might lead it to a different voice. Reflected in this approach are three fundamental influences to my practice: the Contemporary Jewellery Movement; non-jewellery practices such as art, architecture, street culture, ...

IntroductionSub‐dermal hormone implants, such as levonorgestrel (LNG), are a safe and desirable form of long‐acting contraception, but their use among HIV‐positive women on antiretroviral therapy (ART) may be compromised given the potential for a cytochrome P450 3A‐mediated drug–drug interaction. Our study aimed to characterize the pharmacokinetics of LNG released from a sub‐dermal implant over six months in HIV‐positive Ugandan women on nevirapine (NVP)‐ or efavirenz (EFV)‐based ART.Material and MethodsThis non‐randomized, parallel group study compared LNG pharmacokinetics between HIV‐positive Ugandan women not yet eligible for ART (control group, n=18) and those on stable NVP‐ (n=20) or EFV‐ (n=20) based ART. The two‐rod (75 mg/rod) LNG sub‐dermal implant was inserted at study enrolment. LNG sampling was obtained pre‐implant and at weeks 1, 4, 12 and 24 post‐insertion. LNG concentrations were analyzed using a validated LC‐MS/MS method, with an assay calibration range of 50–1500 pg/mL. Safety monitoring, including a pregnancy test, was conducted at each study visit.ResultsAt enrolment, participants had a mean age of 31 years; CD4+ cell counts were similar between the control, NVP and EFV groups (758, 645 and 568 cells/mm3, respectively; p=0.09); all women in the NVP and EFV groups had an undetectable HIV‐RNA. Women in the control group had a higher baseline body weight (73 kg) compared to those in the NVP (63 kg; p=0.03) or EFV groups (60 kg; p<0.01). By linear regression, weight was a significant predictor of LNG concentrations (1 kg increase in weight=5 pg/mL decrease in LNG, p=0.03). LNG concentrations are reported in the table.ConclusionsOver a 24‐week period, LNG concentrations were 40–54% lower in women on EFV‐based ART, despite their having a significantly lower body weight, compared to those not on ART. In women on NVP‐based ART, LNG concentrations were 32–39% higher than those observed in the control group, a difference partially explained by body weight. These data confirm a significant drug interaction occurs between the LNG implant and EFV, adding to growing concern for reduced contraceptive efficacy with their combined use. In contrast, these data support use of the LNG implant with NVP‐based ART.

AbstractIntroductionWhile pregnant people have been an important focus for HIV research, critical evidence gaps remain regarding prevention, co‐infection, and safety and efficacy of new antiretroviral therapies in pregnancy. Such gaps can result in harm: without safety data, drugs used may carry unacceptable risks to the foetus or pregnant person; without pregnancy‐specific dosing data, pregnant people face risks of both toxicity and undertreatment; and delays in gathering evidence can limit access to beneficial next‐generation drugs. Despite recognition of the need, numerous barriers and ethical complexities have limited progress. We describe the process, ethical foundations, recommendations and applications of guidance for advancing responsible inclusion of pregnant people in HIV/co‐infections research.DiscussionThe 26‐member international and interdisciplinary Pregnancy and HIV/AIDS: Seeking Equitable Study (PHASES) Working Group was convened to develop ethics‐centred guidance for advancing timely, responsible HIV/co‐infections research with pregnant people. Deliberations over 3 years drew on extensive qualitative research, stakeholder engagement, expert consultation and a series of workshops. The guidance, initially issued in July 2020, highlights conceptual shifts needed in framing research with pregnant people, and articulates three ethical foundations to ground recommendations: equitable protection from drug‐related risks, timely access to biomedical advances and equitable respect for pregnant people's health interests. The guidance advances 12 specific recommendations, actionable within the current regulatory environment, addressing multiple stakeholders across drug development and post‐approval research, and organized around four themes: building capacity, supporting inclusion, achieving priority research and ensuring respect. The recommendations describe strategies towards ethically redressing the evidence gap for pregnant people around HIV and co‐infections. The guidance has informed key efforts of leading organizations working to advance needed research, and identifies further opportunities for impact by a range of stakeholder groups.ConclusionsThere are clear pathways towards ethical inclusion of pregnant people in the biomedical research agenda, and strong agreement across the HIV research community about the need for – and the promise of – advancing them. Those who fund, conduct, oversee and advocate for research can use the PHASES guidance to facilitate more, better and earlier evidence to optimize the health and wellbeing of pregnant people and their children.