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This introductory article reassesses the understudied and critical role of food in French (post)colonial studies. Through the examples of Banania and the French 'gastronomic civilising mission', it investigates the links between the development of new tastes and the establishment, success, maintenance and limits of empire, both abroad and at home. This special issue, entitled 'Food and the French Empire', shows that the production, circulation, preparation and consumption of food shaped and were shaped by imperial ideologies and forms of domination. Conversely, food circulation tangibly delineates variations within and across empires, as well as the limitations and long-term ramifications of imperialism as an ideology and enterprise. The special issue encompasses specific foodstuffs, cuisines and food practices from early empire to post-immigration, across the French colonial empire. It shows the persistent relevance of colonial alimentary exploitation to the understanding of contemporary, global food systems.